Weed N Feed for pastures

There’s a slim chance the weather will cooperate this year and we can weed n field our pasture/hay field. We have a 4 acre pasture we get 2 cuts off of a year and then graze for fall and winter. It’s usually cow hay but last spring we had to bale it for horses due to the crappy season. It’s edible but super weedy and we’d like to reduce the weeds to help overall quality.

I’m looking for the most economical way to weed n feed, we have a 4 wheeler and a boom sprayer thing and need to spray about 5 to 7 acres total, and I’d like to not have to keep the horses off the other fields for weeks.

We’re looking at these products which look exactly the same but are priced differently

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr…-0-0-2-1-2-gal

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr…-0-0-2-1-2-gal

Any other suggestions? We’re pretty handy and economical is best.

This stuff you linked to is NOT economical. It will run you just about $150/acre. Comes to $750-$900, yes? That’s a BUNCH of money you don’t have to spend.

For your acreage go to you local co-op and get 2.5 gal. of 2,4,d Ester (if you are going to spray within the next 30 days; if it will be longer then get 2,4,d amine; the general rule is “ester before Easter” as it works better in slightly cooler weather). In our co-op it will run about $60 and you’ll need a gallon or two of surfactant (a soapy substance that causes the chemical to better adhere to the weed’s leaves which means a faster and more complete kill; figure $12/gal.). You will likely have to spray twice, once in the spring for early emergence weeds and once in early summer for the late emergence weeds). The coop will usually give you advice on use.

I’ve been doing a LOT of research on liquid fertilizers for pastures and it is a subject that is VERY controversial with some farm folks. I’ve not yet made a final decision on liquid or dry bulk. For your rather small acreage you might be better off with bagged fertilizer and pull-behind spreader for your 4 wheeler. First, however, you need to do a soil test and decide what fertilizer you need and if you need lime. Contact your county extension office for advice on how to do this where you live.

It’s possible to bring a pasture into decent condition over a couple of seasons with just using fertilizer, lime (if required), and weed killer. If you decide not to use 2,4,d (a very same chemical that has been in use for decades) then close mowing will help, but plan on a multi-year program and lots of time on mower.

If you want to do this right you need to soil sample, RoundUp, reseed, and the add the right mix of fertilizer and lime. You might be able to graze in the Fall but will have a really good start and a strong stand next spring. You might have to hit it with 2,4,d as you soil will have seed in it that will take a couple of years to fully “clear out.” As to grass type, talk to your County Agent for what works in your area.

Good luck with your program. :slight_smile:

G.

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You should read the specifications closer. The first link says it is for lawns only!! Definately do not use this for your pastures despite the low cost!

The second link, Pasture Pro, says it is for pastures. There are other details in there to akeep you an informed consumer. Such as how long to keep animals off sprayed fields.

You need to get into the details of chemicals, handling, applying, waiting times, mowing heights, before you use them, for your own and the equines safety. This is how folks got poisoned by Round Up in years past.

When using ANY chemical (like a laundry detergent, for example) you have to know and understand what it’s about. If you don’t you can not only spend money you don’t need to spend but also spend money to fix the things the first thing you used fouled up.

Your County Agent can tell you about the use of 2,4,d; RoundUp; Crossbow; or a host of other chemicals, including lime (which comes in multiple varieties for pasture use). Soil Conservation is another source, but not as specialized as Extension. Most co-ops will give you advice but they are in the business of selling stuff; this does NOT mean they will lie, only that they are making money from a sale and that should be warning to the buyer.

Take your time, educate yourself, and then make your decisions.

G.

Besides what G said above about co ops wanting to sell, to get around that you could always talk to local hay growers that are knowledgable about what the co op sells, and what they like to push people to buy vs what works. Facebook or craigslist are great sources! Our local fb horsie page has tons of people that know the hay growers around here and who grows good, meh, and great hay. Find out who is doing the great hay, then give them a buzz and ask what they use. You may get lucky and have one say they are doing their fields soon and could do yours for x amount, and if it is within budget, save you the time and hassle of buying products and figuring it out on your own!

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Right now what we do is my farmer round bales my field and sells it for cow hay and then we trade for his horse hay. IT works out really well. Last year the weather was so bad many people didn’t get a first cut until June and by then it was all terrible so we baled it in square bales and I kept half and he sold half as low quality horse hay. It eats fine although it has lots of sticks in it from the weeds. I feed extra but since it was “free” I don’t care.

I’d like to reduce the weeds to improve the grass but it’s a 4 acre field so I’m not going to drill and reseed. I graze it in the winter so it’ll have that wear and tear anyway and my horses are easy keepers so they don’t need front lawn quality.

Lawns only why? The ingredients looked exactly the same. We were looking at using that as a 24d and then something called haymaker as the fertilizer.

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I just bought 2,4,D at our local co-op. It was AS Blue Shredder 2 Ester LV4. The cost was $49.99. The comparable Tractor Supply product was $54.99. From various on line sources it ranged from $50 to $85, with shipping often extra.

It pays to shop around for this stuff.

G.