What are your hunting tips?

This is my first year hunting as a member with my own horse so we’re riding in the back of second field this year. Right now it’s still about getting comfortable riding in the field and handling the challenges that come our way. So far this season:

  1. I’ve rediscovered the double bridge – very useful for long runs. My horse doesn’t even pull badly but it just makes things steadier.

  2. I’ve found if I give my horse his head and just focus on stretching tall and staying centered when we come to a muddy drop into a river, or tricky footing he’ll pick his way across and take it much more smoothly and safely than if I try to “ride” him.

  3. I’m glad I have a smaller horse and a hard helmet when galloping through woods!

Those are some things I’ve learned and I want to ask what other people’s tips are. Because I’m finding that I can take lessons for show jumping, xc riding, dressage, etc… but nobody gives lessons on what to do when coming to a muddy drop down into a full, strong creek! :slight_smile:

So what tips do you have when dealing with riding situations specific to hunting?

In unfamiliar territory follow the horse in front of you to avoid holes, wire, etc.

Today I wished the trace clip on my short mare was 8" higher on her sides. Cockleburs kept getting stuck in her long winter coat…right under my leg…which made for some interesting mock Grand Prix dressage movements. :wink:

Just came in from hunting. So tired…

My advice? Limit coffee intake or it will be a very long day.

Not that I know this from personal experience or anything…

If you have a furry grey monster, clipping and blanketing will make getting ready for and cleaning up after a hunt much easier.

Teach your horse to stand quietly beside any object that can be used as a mounting block. This way when you are in the hunt field you can use a fence, a gate, a ditch, a log, a cars fender… Even if you can mount from the ground, you may make an unplanned dismount in the field and be a bit too sore to mount from the ground. This will make it so you don’t have to walk quite so far, or so that someone else doesn’t have to dismount to help you.

If possible, teach your mount how to pony and/or to be ponied. If you are asked to get a gate, or to hold someone’s horse while they get a gate, remove wire… you and your mount will be prepared for how to handle the situation.

My trainer also fox hunts so he does help school for the hunt field. Several years ago I had a new horse who was not confident about dropping into water and my trainer took us to several different farms and taught both my horse and me how to ride a drop staying in the middle and being prepared for whatever might happen…we both improved tremendously. I find it very useful to have such a versatile trainer.

Learning to gallop

Learning to gallop and rate the gallop by opening my shoulder blades and deepening my heal were a big lesson. I have a big, strong, warhorse who raced 10 years. He thinks a gallop is a good reason to show everyone exactly who is the fastest and if we have happened to turn toward the trailers, look out! Nice open shoulders help to lighten him up, balance the stride and keep order.

As JSwan said, 1 cup of coffee is plenty.

I love the hounds. Love them. I am fortunate enough to ride with a small Hunt and we can follow right along with the pack. Chills run down my spine and I get emotional when I hear them open. If at all possible, get a favorite hound and follow it all season. I love that part.

Something that was very helpful to me this week: My ex-racehorse was being a bit strong (it’s his first season). A very experienced member of our hunt pointed out to me that I was trying to keep him too far behind the horse in front of him, and that I shouldn’t be riding him (being green) dead last in the field. She said being last makes them think they will be the first to be picked off (if there is a predator behind - now, we all know there will be no predator coming from behind, but the horse doesn’t know that!). I took her advise, and, boy howdy, did it come in handy when hit on a coyote! Had a great run, and both of us were much happier! So thankful to be a member of a fabulous hunt with fabulous members!:):):slight_smile:

I agree with putting your horse in the middle of the field. I started my OTTB that way and he was pretty comfortable in the “herd.” We still get moments where he wants to prove he’s faster than the rest, but they are fewer and farther between.

I often ride with a neck strap which helps me balance and keeps him quieter without touching my reins.

I prefer to ride with more “brakes” to keep my horse from leaning (I hunt in either a Waterford or a Kimberwicke) and then stay off my horse’s mouth as much as possible.

I put the Comfort Stirrup wraps on my stirrups this year and it’s made a big difference – my feet don’t go numb and they are much more secure.

Ditto this plus if there is a whoopie wagon you will want to please the hostess and enjoy a beverage…which brings me to another point- introduce your horse to small humans. :winkgrin: Today the whoopie wagon Hostess young son’s were walking up to take our empty glasses. My little mare (who hasn’t actually done much in her sheltered life until this July) backed away from that wee human as if she was face to face with Darth Vadar. Because I was an awesome egg and spoon racer back in Pony Club, I didn’t drop my almost empty glass as she flew backwards…too bad they didn’t serve Bloody Marys at Games Rallys to us Pony Clubbers.

I like the neck strap idea. I will try that or pull on the breast collar strap (instead of the mouth ;)).

I find a neck strap is at a better place for grabbing when you are jumping or 2 pointing over long distances than a breast collar.

neck straps

Love them!!

Wonderful tips! Keep going!

Any tips for dealing with abrupt changes in footing at speed? Right now, I just don’t look down and hope my horse is paying attention. Actually, I’m realizing how much I appreciate my little appaloosa’s sure-footedness and gameness. The last hunt we galloped over a rocky outcrop and through a random patch of thick, deep mud. I just try to sit still so I don’t affect his balance as he’s adjusting his stride to deal with the sudden change in footing.

Maybe this is just normal hunting and something that will be old hat as I get more experience. But it’s certainly not something I’ve dealt with in a ring or XC course.

Re abrupt changes in footing: In my experience, that is a big issue as a cause of lameness e.g. bowed tendons. Your instinct to just sit still and let the horse sort it out is right- I would add to that, something one can and should school at home starting with when they are babies under saddle is an appropriate ‘pay attention’ communication, whether a mere jiggle of the reins or seat signal or half halt. With all of my horses, even made ones, I can practice that by just walking them over 18 inch to 2 foot jumps in the arena- the appropriate signal to tell them to focus on negotiating the obstacle or issue at hand. Where I live now, I reinforce that by brisk trots on rocky trails- I expect them to pay attention to where they are putting their feet, and the penalty for them is, yeah, it hurts a bit when you step on a rock. In a perfect world, you can give the horse a few strides at a jog when the footing goes from hard to deep or vice versa, but often enough, especially when hounds are running hard, you just have to go with the flow.

I would say my general advice is, treat your hunter like a ‘working horse,’ say, a cow pony. Teach him/her the job and then sit back and let him/her do the job. The less you try to micromanage your horse in the heat of the chase, the happier you will both be- the horse is able to conserve mental and physical energy, and you are able to watch the hounds, which is what it’s all about!

I teach my horses a verbal “slow down” cue. It’s a trilling noise. If I need a slight check because the footing is shifting or horses ahead of me suddenly slow down, I find it’s a good way to get my horse to refocus and slow without touching the reins.

It’s easy to teach. Just pick a noise and make it every time you do a downward transition. Pretty soon your horse will associate that with slowing down.

Give him a chance to see trouble

Keeping a safe distance behind the horse in front of your is very important. I was taught that you should be able to see the rear heels of the horse that you are following at all times. This of course is not easy to do consistantly!

What you should strive for on each hunt is to slow down and give a good safe distance to the horse in front of you when presented with an obstacle, like a bank, stream, rocky footing, etc. Give your horse a chance to see what is ahead of his feet and he will give you the best opportunity to continue your hunt. If he has his head too close to the horse ahead, all he can see is their fanny.

The safe distance behind the horse in front of you changes according to your speed. The faster you are going, the more distance in case the rider in front of you has trouble.

When galloping over a field where there might be holes, stay right in the track of the horse in front of you. Don’t make your own line.

If someone is breathing down your neck, say “would you like to pass?” Remember, if they won’t (or probably can’t) stay in back, you want someone scary in front of you, not right behind you.

At a tricky crossing, don’t speed off right away, go steady for a second to keep the horse behind you from bolting through said obstacle.

Don’t call out every hole, wire, etc. that you see, only if you are going fast and no other riders have seen it.

Remember, hounds and staff are not a danger, so don’t call out “ware hound.” Say “hound, please.”

Pay attention, listen and keep your mouth shut.

That’s the best I can do for now. Had to miss hunting this past weekend because of a stomach virus!! : (

Keep your eye on the field master, not the horse directly in front of you. You’ll be prepared that much sooner for what’s ahead. Let your horse be the one concentrating on his footing.

Riding the big slide

At Amwell Valley, this past fabulous weekend, we had the largest, longest, steepest ravine slide into a stream, then an equally daunting slope to get back to the top on the other side. The height was considerably over my head, looking up on Pleasantmeadow’s super hunter. I haven’t done a slide that big since I left upper level eventing.

Jimmy Wofford’s advice was let your hips come forward between your shoulders, to get the lay back on the way down. Envision maintaining vertical no matter what angle the horse is under you. Keep straight, so the horse’s hind legs are directly under him. With your shoulders back, you help him keep the traction. Look up to where you want to go. The weight of your head influences where you end up. Allow your reins to slide through your fingers, to give the horse his head to balance, then use the 2 hand sliding technique to quickly gather them at the bottom.

You have to be quick in changing position to the middle of the horse for the stream crossing. Hopefully, he will carefully ford the stream, but the narrow ones, he may leap.

Quickly, grap mane or neck strap, or double bridge, and be prepared for a rocket assisted launch up the bank. It will be slippery, so you have got to be steady as he feels his way up. Do aim where you want to end up. I use my legs and seat to direct, while I give some rein to help the horse use his head and neck. I do have a soft feel of his mouth.

The Amwell ravine was a good practice for Irish hunting, too.

It helps a lot to be in a cross-country saddle that allows both the extreme lay back and forward for the leap up. I’ve been riding in a modified for low jumps Stackhouse. I get hit in my derriere over anything that my cat like, athletic, over-jumping greenie leaps. I came back from Amwell, vowing to invest in a true custom cross-country saddle with the balance for the big stuff. Michael Stokes has promised it in time for Christmas…:smiley: