Not going to get in to the truck/trailer debate, but can offer you some tips for hauling a trailer.
Start practicing now - even with a little car. Cover your rear-view mirror up with something so you cannot use it, and NEVER look over your shoulder when backing up. Both of those sight methods are useless with a trailer hooked on.
Drive around with a FULL cup of water in the cup holder - NO LID. If you splash it out, you are starting - stopping - braking - turning too fast. If you keep all the water in the cup, you are driving the way you NEED to drive when you are hauling horses.
I can stand a Thermos on the tack trunk in my gooseneck tack room and drive our super windy up and down roads without it falling over. That is how smooth you should drive with horses. Yes, there are lots of people that drive faster, and lots of horses that come off the trailer stressed and tired from balancing on such a ride. And lots of horses that refuse to load because they know the ride is gonna suck!
As far as turning radius… I have a 2016 Ram one ton dually that turns very well with a fairly small radius. I just sold a 2001 Ford F-350 that took an entire hay field to make the smallest circle it possibly could.
My advice would be to go to any possible brand of truck dealers that you might be interested in and drive the models you are looking at. You won’t know until you drive them.
As far as fuel economy… You will not get to have your cake and eat it too. Trucks, not matter what a salesman or even some yahoo who has chipped the living crap out of his truck tells you, will never be very fuel efficient.
I owned a '97 3/4 ton Ram, with a 360, that would get all of 6 mpg when pulling a 4 horse aluminum trailer loaded. My Ford, with a 7.3 liter PowerStroke would get 16 mpg on the highway unloaded, and I would average 12-14 depending on which trailer I was pulling. Pulling the 3 horse LQ trailer I have now, I probably got around 10-12. My new Ram pulls the same trailer, which weighs around 11,500 lbs. without horses on it, averaging about 12 mpg.
That being said, I keep a VW Jetta TDI as a run around car. It gets 45 mpg, has 8 air bags, and is paid for, so I plan on driving it into the ground. BUT, when that dies, I will be driving my truck full time.
With small garages, a different daily driver would be a big help, and the gas mileage on all of the trucks is going to be a drag. However, if you need one vehicle, I’d go with a 3/4 ton (btw, duallies are 1 ton) if you want a 2H with dressing room. Especially if you get the side load trailer, which appears to be longer?
From there, my vote is bumper pull so you can get a short bed truck to help with your daily driving and parking. With a gooseneck, having the long bed helps a lot if you have to get in and out of any tight spaces and value your rear window! It’s not that hard to learn to maneuver a BP, but a weight distributing hitch will help you a lot as far as handling, even though you’d have a plenty big truck.
Drive around with a FULL cup of water in the cup holder - NO LID. If you splash it out, you are starting - stopping - braking - turning too fast. If you keep all the water in the cup, you are driving the way you NEED to drive when you are hauling horses.
I can stand a Thermos on the tack trunk in my gooseneck tack room and drive our super windy up and down roads without it falling over. That is how smooth you should drive with horses. Yes, there are lots of people that drive faster, and lots of horses that come off the trailer stressed and tired from balancing on such a ride. And lots of horses that refuse to load because they know the ride is gonna suck![/QUOTE]
Trying this TODAY, thank you, I never would have thought of doing this to get ready but it is BRILLIANT! In racing school, we always said smooth is fast. Now I have a new, higher purpose for driving ultra smoothly!
I have an F-150 (actually we have 2 of them) and they happily pull fully loaded 2H BPs both locally and for longer trips through mountains. I’ve never felt I didn’t have enough power, though it does go slowly up the steep hills with 2 horses. I would recommend splurging on 4WD, even if you don’t think you’ll need it. Better to have, and not need, than the opposite.
I agree with practice driving, and reversing, in parking lots. After years of 2-5 times/month trailer driving, I still get nervous about backing up, and it often takes me a few tries to get it parked the way I want to.
In Southern California I think you can go either way on 4WD. It’s not wrong to have but I’ve actually used it while hauling only a couple of times, each time in Northern California. Most of our So Cal venues these days have hard packed DG with pretty good grading. If your home base is less robust, or if you have other plans for the truck besides horse shows, by all means, do the 4WD.
Hi grays!!! Thanks for your interest! Please check your private message in box for Balanced Ride Trailers bumper hitch weights! Feel free to call too with any questions
Thanks, Risa
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We have for years now hauled our steel 16’ GN stock trailer around with our F150 crew cab, 6 1/2’ bed and never had any trouble at all.
The 5 1/2 bed is just a little too short for gn trailers and the extra foot of length helps with stability.
Once going on a two day trip to pick up horses, my friend the trainer’s pickup was in the shop, so we used my pickup to pull his 4 horse GN show rig and came back with 2 horses and didn’t have any trouble at all, even over long, steep hills.
If you were to haul commercially, with bigger trailers, with student’s horses, every weekend and trips to the vet and farrier weekly, then yes, you may want more pickup.
For what you want, once a month hauling and everyday pickup, 1/2 ton should be fine.
The newer 1/2 ton are considerably better at hauling, do get the 8 cylinders and towing package.
For us, 4x4 is indispensable also, for you, it probably won’t hurt to have it, if you park in any other than asphalt.
I think that, if you ask a car sales place to let you try different types, so you can see which one drives best for you, a demonstrator vehicle, maybe rent it for a month, that could be a better way for you to decide.
Good to look into the options and hear what others have experienced.
Living in So Cal myself I understand your desire for a set up of your own. For years I had anHummer H2 that pulled my Charmac 3 horse slant load beautifully. It also took kids to school and Hockey too!! The turning radius on that thing was fantastic and it towed three big ole horses like there was nothing behind me.
I ended up selling the H2 so I had to use my hubby’s 3500 Diesel GMC which tows great but since it’s a long bed, crew cab let’s just say I have to plan where I am going when I drive it. If you do invest in a truck Diesels are the way to go. The gas mileage is so much better than that of a regular truck.
And I agree 1000000% with the poster that said backing is the most difficult part. It is!! Have someone that knows how to tow help you if and when you get your set up. Once your comfortable it will be no big deal to tow the horses.
I understand those that want a gooseneck - but bumper pulls work great too for the distances you are traveling.
For a while I used to haul race horses from lay up farms to the track in my bumper pull in Cali traffic with no issues.
My trailer is up there in years so I will be searching for another in the next year or so and one of the most important things to consider is an aluminum outer on the trailer… I have a full steel trailer which it is thick and durable but it RUSTS!!!
I have been eyeing the Sundowners… I like the straight loads with NO MANGER. YEARS ago I borrowed a trailer to pick up a horse and the trailer had a manger - horse went up into it. UGH!!
I have a three horse slant now and I do like the slant but have been in a few straight loads recently and I really like them and so do my horses.
Good luck with your search Let us know what you find out about trailers because I am dipping my toes into the hunt too!
Well, just to put it out there,if you can only manage one vehicle for commuting, city parking, and towing, would you want to consider one of the European-style trailers (a used Brenderup, or a Bockmann) that is designed to be pulled by your average substantial but not ridiculously huge SUV?
I haven’t read all the posts…but my suggestion for every “newbie” is to ride in the trailer while some else is driving!!! It will give you great insight and compassion for your horses job while hauling!! You can’t imagine what a fast stop or a sharp turn equates to for the horse!! I also second practice in a large/empty parking lot. Take some cones with you for parking/turning simulation. Our DD is almost 40 this year and STILL doesn’t know how to back up well!! So far she has been lucky not to have to!! Good luck with your venture!!
I got my first truck and trailer almost 18 months ago. I have a 2012 F350 diesel and a 2 horse GN 4 Star. I.love.it. I’m very ovetrucked, but that was exactly what I wanted. It hauls like a dream-- no sway and my truck does not even know its back there even over some pretty serious hills/mountains of TN/NC. I did add fans to the trailer because I thought it was hotter than some of my friends, but that was an easy fix and was 100% worth the money (as was the electric jack because it’s heavy, it’s super hot and humid here, and I have to jack the trailer up really high to clear my truck’s lift gate).
I also have a daily driver and insurance on two vehicles is about an extra $80 bucks a month on both vehicles. Also, insure your trailer. We had some trailer thefts-- and it’s totally worth the $90 dollars a year it costs me from State Farm.
Also, I had driven my friend’s bumper pull before getting my rig. But it’s a little different (and longer). My truck is a short bed. So I went to a school and practiced driving, turning, and backing in the bus lanes. I did turns and everything else I could think I’d have to do when backing. If you buy a short bed truck, I’d HIGHLY recommend taking a friend and trying to jack knife the truck and trailer. Have your friend tell when you’re getting close to busting the rear window before you do. I now know that I can totally jackknife the trailer if I needed to for some reason without hitting the window (even though it looks crazy close).
You asked if Sundowner is the best trailer out there. IMO, no. Of all the trailers I’ve seen and been around I think 4-Star is the top of the line. Gore and Jamco are also very well built. For my own personal price point, I’ve been a longtime Trail-et fan. They don’t make those anymore, but Hawk trailers and EquiSpirit trailers are basically the same thing. Very nice trailers for the money. Functional, well built, and long-lasting.
And I agree 1000000% with the poster that said backing is the most difficult part. It is!! Have someone that knows how to tow help you if and when you get your set up. Once your comfortable it will be no big deal to tow the horses.
![/QUOTE]
used to be as Ford has an option for “self backing up of truck and trailer”
All-New Pro Trailer Backup Assist for 2016 Ford F-150 Makes Backing Up and Parking a Trailer Easier Than Ever
[QUOTE=seabreeze;8826552]
You asked if Sundowner is the best trailer out there. IMO, no. Of all the trailers I’ve seen and been around I think 4-Star is the top of the line. Gore and Jamco are also very well built. For my own personal price point, I’ve been a longtime Trail-et fan. They don’t make those anymore, but Hawk trailers and EquiSpirit trailers are basically the same thing. Very nice trailers for the money. Functional, well built, and long-lasting.[/QUOTE]
Thank you, after doing more research, it definitely sounds like the 4-star trailers are universally applauded but that Hawk and EquiSpirit are also good options. That is certainly borne out in the resale values.
I have had a 4-Star and a Trail-et and I liked both very much.
The Trail-et is substantially heavier but it also has some more horse-friendly basic options, like big windows and adjustable dividers.
The 4-Star was a bit nicer to haul. I would recommend having an aluminum floor coated in Line-X or the equivalent, which isn’t terribly difficult or expensive.
Like you, I’ve had a lot of track and autocross experience. Towing is all about smooth inputs - smooth on the throttle, gradual brakes. Especially so with a live animal on board.
I love the Rams, especially with the air suspension. Makes it so much easier to hook up a trailer. Course, if you want to spend a fortune, the new Fords have the backup technology and bed cameras as well.
There’s a lot more stability with gooseneck and 5th wheel, but like others have suggested, take it easy and practice.
Yep, more or less. However, you’re talking about buying a truck to tow. I recommend taking a conservative sizing in this case since you don’t have the distorted idea of balancing the needs of towing with getting groceries. Straight away I’m thinking 3/4 or 1 ton (not dually) pickup.
I’ve really fallen in love with the balanced ride trailers from Happy Trails. So many people recommended Risa and it’s true, she’s clearly ground zero when it comes to great customer service. I’ve changed my mind about wanting a living quarters, I want to just start with a 2 horse trailer and grow from there.
I would like to purchase either the plain 2 horse bumper pull or the side load 2 horse bumper pull.
I’m not seeing any weight numbers on these, but I’m assuming they’re probably a little less heavy than the gooseneck versions, which do have weights listed, so probably between 4,500-5,500lbs?
ok, I know there will be folks who say I can only do this with a 3/4 ton dually. And that it should be a gooseneck. I hear you. I genuinely respect you.
BUT I’ve also read from others that the newer 1/2 tons are excellent haulers as well. And ones that I could live more comfortably with as a daily driver.
I’m sure my previous statement gives this away, but unless you want to daily drive a full sized pickup, I advocate a daily driver and a towing pickup. Much less fuel use, and it allows you to have a proper towing truck. Plus you have a backup vehicle in your life.
One in particular that I am really liking is the Ram with the eco-diesel engine. Advertised as being able to haul 9,000lb according to the Ram towing guide (crew cab, eco diesel).
I think that’s the diesel engine that’s in the Jeep Grand Cherokee. A friend at work has one and he traded it in under the Lemon Law for huge issues. It was a very early model and I suspect some bugs have been worked out. But some bugs never get worked out. I’m not saying by now it’s still a bad engine, but if you’re buying a new truck you’re subject to whatever new technology and emissions regulations that could make your life a living hell if they’re not working perfectly. Towing horses is not when I want to serve the role of guinea pig.
I’m an advocate of diesel engines but between the EPA mandates and consumers irrational desire for the most powerful engine, diesel engines are no longer the most reliable and convenient choice. Any new diesel now is electronically regulated to stop after 200 miles if the emissions system is having an issue. (It doesn’t care if you’re towing live horses in the middle of nowhere)
Rather than buy a brand new truck, I’d save some money and search for a good used truck that’s been around for a couple of years to develop a reputation of being reliable.
Given what everyone here says, let’s assume I should always give myself 15% breathing room, so 7,650lb. Assuming my trailer is 4,500lb and two horses, I think I’m below the 7650lbs.
Firstly, does this seem like a reasonable setup? What do I need to make sure I have in my setup on the truck?
I’m pretty sure those ratings are for an empty truck. At a minimum, check the maximum trailer weight, combined vehicle weight (truck + trailer), and weight of the truck plus contents. Add some stuff in the bed of the truck and fill the cab with a couple of people and gear and your trailer capacity goes way down.
If it’s bumper pull, get a weight distributing hitch.
15% margin on towing capacity is not much when the load is horses. Unlike a race car or bulk material, they really shift around. Call the trailer supplier - if they have no idea what their dry weights are, shop elsewhere. And never listen to a trailer seller who says “that’ll pull it” or a truck seller who says “that’ll pull a horse trailer no problem” without checking some numbers. Because sellers are trying to remove the obstacles to a quick sale, not create one.
Almost all of the hauling will be in the Socal region, so highways…endless highways and traffic.
Well then you will be rewarded by having a vehicle with extra stopping power and weight, so that in an emergency maneuver your truck can keep the trailer behind you. You will be around drivers who famously have minimal regard for other vehicles, and I would want maximum protection against them inevitably cutting in front of me and slowing too quickly. I might install an air horn just to ensure idiots get my message.
Secondly, how much “training” or practice should I do before I actually tow a live horse? I’ve done a fair bit of race driving school, so I’m weirdly versed in a lot of driving dynamics, (getting comfortable and safe in skids etc, understanding thew physics of under-steer and over-steer), but towing is COMPLETELY different.
I had assumed I should spend a few hours towing the rig completely empty, then load it up with nonlive materials and spend a few more hours first on local roads, then work my way up to highways, and then get comfortable being in traffic? Is 20 hours of practice sufficient? What kinds of loads best stimulate a horse?
One drill you may have done in performance driving school could work here: the ball in the bowl exercise. Fasten a shallow round bowl to the dash and place the ball in it, and as you drive don’t let the ball roll out of the bowl. It forces smoother turns, accelerations, and braking. You might not literally need to do this exercise, but even an air freshener hanging from the mirror will indicate how well you’re doing. It’s also been said that riding in a trailer says a lot. I wouldn’t do that on the open road, but having a friend take you around a large empty parking lot could teach much.
I think you might be a bit too cautious by trying to simulate the horses but I vastly prefer your caution over foolish ignorance. You need, above all, to know your capabilities and trust your preparation.
I think it’s wise to get going with the empty trailer for a while. For a 2 horse BP the biggest change is the size of the trailer and the effect of tongue weight on the truck. The horses shouldn’t affect tongue weight. The dynamics of the rig aren’t too different except that you’re going to need long distances to stop and you need to steer the truck wider around turns to keep the trailer from cutting the corner. If anything, some parking and handling drills in a parking lot are very good.
Get a wheel ramp and practice changing a trailer wheel before you’re out on the road.
Again, apologies for the long-winded request. I just want to be a safe and responsible driver out there. I have huge respect for those of you who do this regularly. Thanks in advance!
I’ll add a few unintuitive realities about towing:
trailer tires are trash in 5 years no matter how good they look. They age and lose strength (50% after 5 years) in the best conditions. Poor storage will accelerate the issue. Replace on a regular schedule and take care of them.
many people claim expertise in towing but few run the numbers on tow ratings, etc.
air bags, heavier duty add-ons, more powerful engine, etc do not improve a trucks towing capacity.
aftermarket wheels, tires, suspension, etc can lower towing capacity. But they won’t say how much because nearly all of these things are for “off-road use only”
Everyone with a truck or trailer is an expert in the subject. Fact check everything, every time. Anyone offering expertise who can’t share the “why” of their advise is probably a poor source because they only carry tribal knowledge. Likewise, anyone who bases their “rules” on anecdotal experiences should be considered with care. Logical fallacies abound in this subject, and in an accident Newton’s Laws of Physics simply won’t care about our irrationalities.
Very few police officers or citizens know the law very well. This is troublesome all around. And once you cross state lines the laws always seem to change. The USA could benefit immensely from a uniform code of towing regulations.
By law you should have an emergency kit. By common sense there should be some other things with it. It’s a whole other thread of discussion but put one together.
Let us know what you find out about trailers because I am dipping my toes into the hunt too!