What's the dream newbie hauling setup

[greysfordays]

hi guys!

please go easy, I am a total amateur when it comes to hauling. But I have two horses, show a bunch and my horses are in fire country. It’s time to get a truck and trailer.

I’ve been perusing this board and it sounds like pick your trailer first, then pick your truck so I would love advise if I’m doing this properly.

I’ve really fallen in love with the balanced ride trailers from Happy Trails. So many people recommended Risa and it’s true, she’s clearly ground zero when it comes to great customer service. I’ve changed my mind about wanting a living quarters, I want to just start with a 2 horse trailer and grow from there.

I would like to purchase either the plain 2 horse bumper pull or the side load 2 horse bumper pull.

http://www.balancedridetrailers.com/bumper-hitch-trailers.aspx

I’m not seeing any weight numbers on these, but I’m assuming they’re probably a little less heavy than the gooseneck versions, which do have weights listed, so probably between 4,500-5,500lbs?

ok, I know there will be folks who say I can only do this with a 3/4 ton dually. And that it should be a gooseneck. I hear you. I genuinely respect you.

BUT I’ve also read from others that the newer 1/2 tons are excellent haulers as well. And ones that I could live more comfortably with as a daily driver.

One in particular that I am really liking is the Ram with the eco-diesel engine. Advertised as being able to haul 9,000lb according to the Ram towing guide (crew cab, eco diesel).

http://www.ramtrucks.com/en/towing_guide/

Given what everyone here says, let’s assume I should always give myself 15% breathing room, so 7,650lb. Assuming my trailer is 4,500lb and two horses, I think I’m below the 76500lbs.

Firstly, does this seem like a reasonable setup? What do I need to make sure I have in my setup on the truck? Almost all of the hauling will be in the Socal region, so highways…endless highways and traffic.

Secondly, how much “training” or practice should I do before I actually tow a live horse? I’ve done a fair bit of race driving school, so I’m weirdly versed in a lot of driving dynamics, (getting comfortable and safe in skids etc, understanding thew physics of under-steer and over-steer), but towing is COMPLETELY different.

I had assumed I should spend a few hours towing the rig completely empty, then load it up with nonlive materials and spend a few more hours first on local roads, then work my way up to highways, and then get comfortable being in traffic? Is 20 hours of practice sufficient? What kinds of loads best stimulate a horse?

Again, apologies for the long-winded request. I just want to be a safe and responsible driver out there. I have huge respect for those of you who do this regularly. Thanks in advance!

[seabreeze]

Personally, I’m a 3/4 ton fan for towing a trailer of average size. I have hauled with a 1/2 ton, but I just prefer the 3/4 ton.

Re: the size of your trailer. Since evacuations could be part of your use for the trailer, have enough room in your trailer for several days’ worth of feed and hay and enough truck to tow it.

As far as practice for towing, practice until you feel comfortable making turns, pulling up to gas pumps, getting in and out of parking lots, and backing up. If you have plenty of truck for your trailer, you won’t notice a huge difference between hauling empty and loaded. You seem very conscientious, so I think hauling won’t be that difficult for you. The biggest deal is being careful around corners and during braking and accelerating.

Good luck and have fun shopping!

[greysfordays]

@seabreeze;8822837

Personally, I’m a 3/4 ton fan for towing a trailer of average size. I have hauled with a 1/2 ton, but I just prefer the 3/4 ton.

As far as practice for towing, practice until you feel comfortable making turns, pulling up to gas pumps, getting in and out of parking lots, and backing up.

See that’s why I LOVE this community. I never would have thought to go to a gas station or parking lot and that’s the kind of thing that would totally rattle me if I hadn’t practiced!

THANK YOU!!!

[cutter99]

I would recommend going to a gooseneck instead of a bumper pull. I feel they are easier to tow, easier to back, and would give you more room to haul essentials if you did need to evacuate. My first trailer was a bumper pull and it was a bear to get comfortable with until I got a weight distributing hitch and sway bars. Once I went to a gooseneck, I have never considered going back to a bumper pull.

As far as practice, I started on back roads and found empty parking lots, typically schools on weekends, to practice. I practiced backing a lot! Lines in parking lots are very helpful for that. I don’t know there is a recommended amount of hours for practice- it is more about how comfortable you feel towing.

And just so you know, 3/4 ton trucks do not come as dual rear wheel, only one ton trucks. That being said, there are many advantages to having a 3/4 ton over a 1/2 ton. For the price of a 1/2 ton Ram Eco Diesel, you can have a nicely equipped 3/4 ton truck that will tow better than any 1/2 ton.

[greysfordays]

thank you cutter! In a perfect world, I would definitely be getting the 3/4 ton, since it’s a much better towing vehicle…but I also need a daily driver in Los Angeles traffic for my job in finance.

I’m a little limited by my office’s old-school underground parking deck, the last big truck I saw in there really struggled to maneuver around the tight spaces. I’m only going to be hauling once a month at most…so what I’m looking for is something that works well the other 28 days of the month.

My number one priority is safety with enough margin for a newbie like me. If this setup isn’t totally safe, I want no part of it. But if it’s doable as long as I really learn how to drive and manage the trailer well, I think it might be a good first step for me.

As a side note, am I right in thinking a 1/2 ton should not be pulling a gooseneck or no they can?

Hopefully one day soon I don’t have to worry about the stupid stock market and can drive my one ton truck with living quarters wherever I so choose! But I’m not quite there yet! :sadsmile:

[pologirl27]

Is there a reason this truck has to be your daily driver? I have two vehicles and adding insurance was not bad AT ALL.

[ShotenStar]

@greysfordays;8823812

thank you cutter! …
I’m a little limited by my office’s old-school underground parking deck, the last big truck I saw in there really struggled to maneuver around the tight spaces. I’m only going to be hauling once a month at most…so what I’m looking for is something that works well the other 28 days of the month.
…
As a side note, am I right in thinking a 1/2 ton should not be pulling a gooseneck or no they can?

If the major daily driver issue is fitting in an underground lot, the numbers you need to examine closely are total vehicle height and length, not chassis weight. Most 1/2 and 3/4 ton vehicles are the same heights and lengths, given the same wheel size and generally same suspension. So, get thee to the manufacturer’s website and look carefully at the numbers - how tall is the cab with 17 inch wheels? 18 inch wheels? 19 or 20 inch wheels? How long is the wheel base with a standard cab? an extended cab? a crew cab? What about bed length? 6 ft or 8 ft makes a difference in your turning radius.

So, a 3/4 ton crew cab longbed is a much bigger vehicle to maneuver around than is a 3/4 ton standard cab shortbed. While the towing numbers will be very similar, the driving and towing experiences will be very, very different.

If I were in your position, I would be looking seriously at a 3/4 ton, standard cab, longbed, on 17 inch rims - you get the wheelbase length and weight handling capacity of the 3/4 ton chassis, without the extra length of an extended or crewcab. This configuration should tow either a BP or GN with little difficultly (given you get the tow package, engine size, and transmission suitable for towing…)

star

[poltroon]

As a former LA resident, I would definitely suggest pricing out the option of a truck separate from your daily driver. A 3/4 ton truck (long bed, extended cab) as your only vehicle - that really sucks to the point of just don’t - but even a half ton is a lot of truck and a pain in the ass to park in a lot of places.

Turning radius will vary, as stated, by bed length and cab length, and turning radius is as much a part of the problem as height. The issue isn’t just getting under the roof but also getting in and out of tightly built parking places. (For a while, I had an office where the parking lot was such that if I had to take my truck, I simply couldn’t go there. Fortunately I was a telecommuter.)

Give yourself a taste - see if you can rent a half ton pickup for a week and go to all the places you like to go.

[AKB]

I have a 2013 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 extended cab with the towing package for, I think, 10,000 lbs. My trailer is a 2h straight load with back ramp all aluminum Sundowner without a dressing room. I am very happy with the setup and have driven to Florida with it, as well as many local trips. I wanted a trailer with the side exit ramp as well as the back. That added more weight than I wanted, so I didn’t get the side ramp. I carry hay, tack, extra people and want plenty of extra towing capacity.

My daughter has a Chevy Silverado extended cab 2500, as well as a gooseneck 2h with a dressing room. She is very happy with it. It would not suit me because the truck is taller.

Check the wheelbase measurements before you buy. I used to have a Chevy Tahoe which towed reasonably well. The truck has a longer wheel base and is much more stable when towing.

[airhorse]

With no budget , I would have a King Ranch F-250 diesel, and a Jamco or 4Star 2 horse gooseneck.

[clanter]

the dream hauling setup would be a transporter stall like on Star-Trek … put tacked horsy in stall set destination and poof its at the show ready for class (and if horsy screws up in the class poof it out of there)

[Simkie]

[QUOTE=poltroon;8823868]
Give yourself a taste - see if you can rent a half ton pickup for a week and go to all the places you like to go.[/QUOTE]

What an excellent idea!

[Florida_Gator]

I have an F150 Ecoboost Twin Turbo, quad cab, long bed that I haul a 3 horse gooseneck with and it is also my primary driving vehicle. The trailer is aluminum with a steel frame. I can get exact specifications on truck and trailer if you’re interested. I have hauled the trailer loaded down with 2 large horses and all of their associated tack and equipment with no issue. I live in FL so everything is pretty much flat, not many inclines or declines to worry about. I’m not sure I’d feel comfortable hauling it fully loaded with 3 horses, but it handles 2 fine, you don’t even know the trailer is back there. My husband has the same truck and hauls tractors, trailers of all kinds, campers, etc without issue. His truck is also his daily driver.

[poltroon]

A thing to know about hauling in the LA area is that even though it might appear ‘flat’, it’s anything but when you consider things like on and offramps, and it’s actually one of the most demanding places to haul IMHO. Stoplights aren’t timed for trailers. A lot of horse places are on tight canyon roads with steep driveways and without a lot of sightline for the cross traffic that can be going at 50 mph.

Hansen Dam is in the flats but coming down those ramps off the 210 requires braking your rig at a pretty substantial slope, as it turns out.

I think a half ton properly equipped for towing with a bumper pull is plenty of truck for the situation… but there’s no such thing as an easy local haul there, IME. I’ve boarded in and traveled to a lot of barns in the area.

The other thing to know, OP, is that not every barn has a place to park your trailer, and most that do will charge you a monthly fee for parking. Get a hitch lock, definitely.

I also recommend some sort of tack storage area (you will be so glad to be able to keep your show-only stuff in there all the time) and if you can, get an exterior rear-facing unload light. If your trailer is staying at a boarding barn, you will have to park this trailer in the dark, probably in all kinds of hinky parking places. The rear unloading light will really help you see behind you when doing so. It’s nice for loading and unloading the horses, but it’s really the parking that makes it invaluable.

A friend of mine clued me into adding fortiflex bucket hangers at each exterior tie point. These are great for keeping water in front of the horses. If the trailer can be so equipped, a water tank is also really great, because some places you’ll show, the trailer parking is not full of water sources. But, you can easily haul water some other way too.

As for practice, mall parking lots are pretty awesome. Find one that has an empty area and practice driving between the lines. You may want to play with some cones as well. I’d try driving it empty in stop and go traffic some day, just to get a feel of that. Get a friend who is experienced with trailer driving to go with you on your first few trips to get some tips and have the security blanket. Practice backing up into those line spaces and practice backing straight.

Other tips: scout your route. Don’t rely on google maps etc for directions. Do use Google street view etc if you’re going someplace new, or get good directions that are trailer friendly. Know where you will be able to turn so you don’t have to back up a long way. Know where there are trailer-friendly gas stations and any other stops you may need to make.

Never be afraid to stop and get out of the trailer when you are backing up or turning in a difficult spot. I only will rely on directions from a select few people - don’t let them tell you how to turn the wheel. People on the ground are only allowed to tell me if I’m in danger of hitting something. Men in particular will try to micromanage you and it will only make it harder. It’s always faster to get out of the truck and look than to deal with the aftermath of hitting something. Give yourself a half hour to park the first several times you go somewhere so you won’t feel rushed.

Have a routine about how you hook up the trailer and follow it the same way and order every time. Always check it when you come back to your rig after say being parked overnight - don’t take for granted that it’s still perfect.

Construction zones will be a little nailbiting the first time (they feel so narrow!), and you may stress about Tejon Pass the first time you try it, but you’ll do fine as long as you take your time and stay mellow. Make all your transitions as smooth and soft as you can.

I have an F-250 crew cab long bed and a 2 horse gooseneck with dressing room. As I said, rather a PITA as a daily driver, but it was a great rig for hauling in Southern California.

[netg]

No question the DREAM setup would be a 3/4 ton with hauling package. If you’re in a fire danger area, you are probably in hills to some extent and may have to trailer in a line where you’re stop and go and in danger of overheating without cooling. I have a Silverado 2500HD, and coming down a mountain in extremely hot temperatures with an accident blocking the road I was grateful for the cooling to keep my engine from overheating, as I was grateful for the fans running on the horses in the trailer - I’ve been in the trailer while stuck on the side of the road and kept amazingly cool thanks to them and the white roof.

I have a 2 horse gooseneck with the shortest dressing room/LQ I could find. It has a cowboy shower with no toilet (I got a camping toilet but everywhere I stay at least has porta potties), sink, a/c. There’s a walkthrough to the back of the trailer where the shower is, and it allows options to have more space that way, too.

I would feel comfortable with a 1/2 ton in normal situations with no stop and go on hills and no mountain climbing. I would NOT feel comfortable with it for my purposes. I also live in a fairly windy area - and I would not feel comfortable with a bumper pull a lot of the time. My truck is more stable with the trailer attached, and I’ve felt the way bumper pulls can get blown all over.

[PNWjumper]

I hauled with a Dodge 1500 (Hemi rated for 10k lbs, IIRC) for a decade. I LOVED that truck! I had a 3-horse slant BP that I pulled through numerous mountain passes and all over the place for that time. I always had 3 BIG horses in that trailer and often put a 1/2 ton of hay in the bed of the truck. I never had problems accelerating and I never had problems braking…and that goes for flat surfaces as well as the steep inclines and declines on the mountain passes.

It obviously depends heavily upon which options you have on your 1/2 ton truck, but my experience was entirely positive with the one that we had. It was also our second vehicle, so often doubled as a city-driving-vehicle.

Now I have an F350 Diesel and a 4-horse Gooseneck. Agree that the GN is easier to haul and back up and all of that. But that little BP was an awesome little hauler for the time I had it.

[greysfordays]

[QUOTE=poltroon;8823868]

Turning radius will vary, as stated, by bed length and cab length, and turning radius is as much a part of the problem as height. The issue isn’t just getting under the roof but also getting in and out of tightly built parking places. (For a while, I had an office where the parking lot was such that if I had to take my truck, I simply couldn’t go there. Fortunately I was a telecommuter.)

Give yourself a taste - see if you can rent a half ton pickup for a week and go to all the places you like to go.[/QUOTE]

Sorry, I wasn’t clear, I’m so much worried about the height, but more so the turning radius etc within our parking deck.

But you are right, renting a truck and driving it is an EXCELLENT idea.

I really hope I do not sound argumentative or closed-minded bc I hate when people do that when others have taken the time to answer their questions thoughtfully!:uhoh:

I agree that having two cars in LA would be better. Unfortunately, we don’t have anywhere at my house to put a third car. I’m already going to have to pay to store the trailer offsite. Costwise, having another car would be pretty steep. I was in a scary car accident in a small car, so I’m uncomfortable having a big truck and a small cheap car as my daily driver. I know this isn’t true everywhere, but where I live, I’m surrounded by kids in huge SUVs, texting to their heart’s content. That’s how I got t-boned.

The other issue is the gas mileage is so much better on the 1500 than what I’ve gathered on the diesel in the 2500 (probably in the low 20s mpg, vs. 15-18mpg). Considering how much I drive to get out to the barn, the gas mileage, in traffic is important.

I’m getting the sense though that I’m trying to have my cake and eat it too! :sigh: Perhaps I just need to find a lighter, simpler trailer. Is Sundowner the highest quality aluminum trailer maker out there that offers taller trailers?

It does sound like I could put a gooseneck on a half ton, which is good to know as well. Florida Gator and AKB, I may PM you with a couple questions if that’s ok?

Thanks again everyone, I am hugely appreciative. Also, Clanter I love your Star Trek idea, ESPECIALLY the part about teleporting immediately if horse or more likely I screw up! :lol:

[TrotTrotPumpkn]

My half ton GMC (4 door, short box) has a horrible turning radius. It’s just like driving a 3/4 ton. I have the 6.2/3.73 gear ratio/max tow setup and can tow around 11,000lbs (not that I would), but it also only gets 15 mpg mixed driving (at best). I do really like towing with it though, it’s a beast, but I hate parking it in the city. It is my daily driver.

Definitely test drive the half tons and don’t assume they are that much better at turning.

No Sundowner is not the highest quality.

[poltroon]

The truck in LA certainly can be done, and my trailer buddy did just that for many years, with the F250 as her only available vehicle. But, you may need to street park, you may need to give extra time to find that parking, and sometimes it will mean walking a long way.

If you are already a two-car family, that does improve the situation quite a bit, because if say you have to go to an especially difficult place for a special meeting, you can swap with the spouse for the day.

The height… certainly can be a factor. For example, even though I live in the sticks of northern California now, I can’t park my truck at the Santa Rosa mall - it’s too tall to fit inside. Some places it technically does fit are nail-biters, with the antenna bouncing off something every 8 feet or so.

We had a 4-star aluminum trailer, and I think they’re nicer than Sundowner. In a sturdy, well-built two horse, though, the weight difference may not be that much (I haven’t checked recently).

Your problem isn’t unique, by far, but you will be making some compromises somewhere.

[Scribbler]

Another total newbie here, first truck, first time hauling anything.

I just bought a 15 year old Dodge Ram 1500, and am shopping for a two horse bumper pull straight load second hand.

Back in July I drove my coach and her trailer/horse on a 1,000 km round trip up into the mountains and back to the city for a four day clinic. Truck went slow up the mountain pass, but so did everyone else, including the big semi-trailers. By the end of the trip I felt quite relaxed about the whole thing.

Backing up is absolutely the trickiest part; if possible, get someone to ride with you and give you tips. And yes, going through gas stations and other tight spots takes care. You don’t want to run over the curb and bust a tire.

Also making sure your horses all load effortlessly in this particular trailer.

I have a long commute, and the truck would absolutely not work for that. So I have two vehicles insured. It’s just over $100 something dollars a month extra. The whole project is frivolous, but I figure I would spend more than that on gas if I was commuting in the truck.