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When the worst happens

I will be asking my instructor this question as well, but I only get to see him once a week, and it is a slow day at work. I am going to start driving on my own soon (well, sort of on my own, there will be other people in the area who can call 911 if the situation warrants it) and I want to be at least theoretically prepared for the worst.

What do you do when disaster strikes? Driving seems to be very regimented. You harness in a certain order, you put to in order, you unhitch in order. I am assuming when something bad happens there is a general set of steps you have to do your recovery in. Though I get every situation will be unique.

What if a horse falls while in harness?

What if the cart tips over?

What do you do if a line breaks? or some other key component of the harness fails?

What do you do if a horse gets a leg over the traces or shaft?

What do you do if the cart gets caught or tangled in something?

What do you do if some other common disaster that I am not thinking of occurs?

I live in the heart of Amish country —and I think I’ve seen most of what you;ve listed, or experienced it my self with my two driving horses --now both in the pasture in the sky. This is what I would do, or have seen others do…

What if a horse falls while in harness? Usually happens going too fast around a corner --shoes worn down --hasn’t happened to me, but I’ve helped with a few (not uncommon in the summer) —all passengers disembark (before driver). Maintaining steady pressure on lines, go to horse’s head off side of the feet, keep horse’s head tipped toward his back (can’t get up that way). If alone, do this with a line or do the best you can. Unhook hold back straps, unhook tugs, unhook over-check if one is used. Push vehicle away from horse. If safe, undo belly band and collar, breast collar, remainder of harness. Encourage horse to rise. Always keep bridle on. Usually the horse is trying to get up once the vehicle is pushed back,sometimes they can get up with the shafts still attached, but usually not.

What if the cart tips over? Did that too. All people out first --(always). Maintain control with lines --if possible. If horse is standing still, unhook vehicle starting with hold backs and then tugs. Lead horse away from vehicle, secure, and right vehicle. Rehook.

What do you do if a line breaks? or some other key component of the harness fails? Well, a line shouldn’t break, but I guess they do. If I had that problem it was because I didn’t put my bit clip on right after cleaning the harness. All my horses were voice trained --a steady pull back with the remaining line and a “ho!” brought them back --this is something you really should practice on the ground a bunch --and in a cart in a safe place. Double check all harness parts before you go on the road. Other parts --tugs can slip off --I always fastened the ends of mine with a bungee so if one slipped off, there was still a connection. Hold backs --well–I’ve forgotten to put them on sometimes --but one will hold back long enough to stop --usually don’t forget to put on both. If you have tugs that are light enough to break --get a different harness.

What do you do if a horse gets a leg over the traces or shaft? Never happened, but if I had a horse that “might” do that, I’d putt a bucking strap over the shafts and a strong over check. If it did happen, I guess you could (unload people) then maintain control as much as possible --I think wooden shafts would break at that point. Metal --not sure. My metal hitch cart could be tipped if it had to be . . .

What do you do if the cart gets caught or tangled in something? Stop? Back? But honestly, why would you drive into something that could tangle your cart? Driving over old fence in a pasture? Through vines? Not a good idea.

What do you do if some other common disaster that I am not thinking of occurs? Surrounded by a group of curious kids --always worried about their toes getting run over --and they would insist on standing in front of the rig --not safe. Dogs–carry a big long whip and use it --on the dog. Spook? Sometimes weird stuff would pass on the road --all you can do is sit quietly and remind any passengers not to grab your arm. We (kids and I) actually practiced “jumping out” should anything occur --We did it in a plowed field with the horse going slow --never had to do so, but good practice.

OH, and now and then I pass a wreck --buggy in the ditch, some 10 year old holding its head ----no, I don’t stop unless there are little kids on the road --then I’ll offer to put them in the car --I go to the closest farm (Amish) and offer to drive someone back to help. Fact is a little old lady can’t do much to help a 1200 pound horse stuck in a ditch hooked to a buggy —but the Amish deal with that all the time and know exactly what to do.

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From my “lofty perch” of some 5+yrs driving - last 3 with my own mini - you just cannot have a pat answer for each or any of the disasters you imagine.
As each situation arises, you need to be quick on your feet - physically & mentally - react according to need.
Most important is to keep your head together, freak out later, think & act first!

Horse falls?
Never had this happen personally, but at the last CDE I attended a young horse got himself in a water hazard in such a way that he JUMPED atop a gate. No way for Driver or Gator to get him down, they just waited him out (seconds that must have felt like hours) & he jumped back down & they continued on.
Horse falling flat - actually helped a friend with this, mare reared & went over backwards - would have me exiting cart ASAP & sitting on horse’s neck to prevent them getting up until help arrived to unharness from the cart, or horse calmed down enough for me to do so.
Driving solo, get horse loose from cart if at all possible, quick-release snaps for holdbacks & tugs are a lifesaver. Harness can be mended if you need to cut it (reason to carry a knife),
A runaway with attached vehicle is a weapon & danger to anyone in the vicinity.

Cart tips?
I am an expert on that :uhoh:
REBALANCE if at all possible, otherwise BAIL if horse is no longer listening & has gone into Flight response.
Driving on trails, keep your eyes on the ground ahead, avoid ruts or water you can’t see to the bottom of.

Really, training horse to WHOA & stand like rooted to the ground until you signal Go is invaluable & your best hope of getting out of a mess.
Same for failure of any piece of equipment, leg over shaft/trace, cart caught in anything.

Finally, from the great Muffy Seaton, when I asked her how to stop a runaway:
“Aim for something solid”

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Much on your list is easily preventable by driving sensibly, paying attention without being afraid. Confidence driving comes with going out and getting mileage in your vehicle.

You are very UNLIKELY to tip over unless you drive up on something higher on one side, lIke a fallen log or deep hole. Driving on familiar roads and trails reduces the chance of “surprises” that could tip you. Control your speed, especially during turns, corners, circles. Have to say bigger wheels on carts help “bridge” ruts and holes better than smaller wheels. Carts (2 wheels) are usually wider vehicles than 4 wheeler, which adds to stability to prevent tipping. Carts move with the animal, forward and back, turn with him, the outfit being a straight line. This is why carts are highly recommended for starting new horses, new drivers.

Not driving thru brush, untrimmed woods, skinny gates, should prevent 99% of any chance of snagging or getting tangled on something. Do not drive tight to fences where you can hook the shaft or hub on something. Give yourself plenty of room. Look ahead, slow down if something ahead is questionable. Stop, look it over, have a passenger walk it if possible, checking for hidden things, then continue if it appears safe. No shame in backing up, turning around at questionable places! Carriages and ridden horses need different eyes looking to decide what is safe to go forward into.

4 wheeled vehicles are hinged for easier turning, more comfortable ride, but the hinge allows vehicle to fold or jack-knife while backing and on sharp turns. ESPECIALLY at speed. So they are for a more experienced Driver and horse. 4 wheels is a logical step up because they have more skills, miles driving, when they change from a 2 wheel cart…

Equipment failure is less likely to happen if you pay attention to the harness, check your vehicle regularly. With the advent of synthetic harness, people do not take it apart regularly to clean and condition, as we did with our leather harnesses. This lets you run your hands over the straps, feel for wear, broken stitches, enlarging holes, thin leather, as you wipe thinge down, reassemble the harness. Taking reins off with buckled billets instead of snaps, has you feeling, hopefully LOOKING, at that piece of leather each drive to see and feel the wear before a rein fails you. Vehicles should be gone over at least yearly in Spring to check tightness of bolts, nuts, spring shackles, shafts, disassembly of wheels to degrease, check bearings for wear, put in new grease and reseal the wheel. If you cross water often, your wheels will need greasing more often in case water gets in there. If your vehicle has brakes you will need to drain and refill the fluid because it collects moisture from the air. Fluid should be clear, any milky coffee color, cloudiness, means you have water in the brakes. Not changing fluid can eat up brake seals, so brakes will fail later.

If you don’t feel capable doing vehicle upkeep, have a professional person do it for you. There is a recent book sold by Driving Digest, the collection of articles they published written by Dave Quist. It is very thorough in explaining vehicle maintenance, how to do things yourself and why. Well worth ihe purchase price.

For horses falling? That seems to be “an act of God.” Not always preventable, but pretty rare if you are going at modest speeds, straighter lines of travel like recreational drives. This is where your “whoa training”, your horse trusting you, comes in. Keep firm hold on the reins, don’t give slack even if he does stay still. Get up, get out of vehicle, look at how things are. Talk to him calmly, keep reins tight as you get closer. Is he on one side? Belly? On a single, he is attached at traces, shafts, breeching holdback straps. Modern synthetic harness often has quick releases that make getting undone faster, simpler. You can unsnap the traces, backstrap, shaft loops, then let him arise and move forward. Breeching falls off with backstrap released.

Each situation is different, though maintaining control of his body is most important. It often seems driving horses are more accepting of restraint, may not fight when downed. However at the LEAST loosening of harness or rein tension they will try to rise. Having a second person if you have one, sit on his throatlatch keeping the head down while you work on horse, is very helpful in keeping him down and quiet. Stay out from between hooves and belly area to prevent YOU getting injured in getting hIm freed. There is no “plan of action” in steps to follow for accidents beyond keeping horse quiet while you assess and deal with things. Harness cutting in accidents is VERY seldom needed, plus horse will try to get up with release of harness tension. NEVER cut reins, you lose all control of horse and events following.

Think more about the good stuff, enjoy going out in the carriage with your horse, how fun drIvins is!. Improve your driving skills, whip handling to hit a loose dog,. Appear confident, practice makes it true! Drive sensibly, worry about trouble when it happens. Otherwise worrying will creep down the reins, affect the horse, ruin the day.

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My best advice is always carry a very good serrated pocket knife on your person. I personally prefer a blade that is serrated it’s entire length. I specifically appreciate “Spider” knives…and their Harpy model is my all time favorite

18 years in the military has taught me that, for me, the best way to be confident going into a potentially dangerous situation is to learn as much as I can about it. Train for the bad stuff, and I know I can handle it, then I’ll act reasonably to avoid it happening. I have enough life experience to know that I keep a cool head in an emergency, which seems to be the common factor in the advice I’ve been given. Pair that with a few ideas about how to safely de-escalate the most common “worst case scenarios” and I feel very comfortable starting my “solo” work.

The biggest hindrance to my driving right now is that it won’t stop raining.

Depends on the old lady. I think Mom had a part time job fetching an old Amish trainer out of the ditch.

A leg over the shaft usually only happens if they go up in the air and come down off center. Lots of time the next time they go up, they end up back between the shafts. If they don’t fix it, unhook and rehook. Another Amish lesson from the trainer of orangutans.

A trainer I knew was taking horse through the Lexington Saddlebred sale in harness. Just before going through the sale, the horse slipped on the concrete and went down. The first wave of people in were all the Amish who got the horse back on his feet while all the saddle horse trainers stood on the sidelines. After the horse was up, the second wave came in - all the trainers armed with brown or black shoelaces to put the harness back together enough so the horse could go through the sale. The whole event took only a few minutes and was remarkably quiet.

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