Which wire fencing?

I hope I can get some advice on which horse fence to use.

I have several lightly wooded areas of several acres each that I would like to set horses and donkeys in.

I’m trying to keep the cost down without sacrificing reliability and effectiveness.

I think that wire or line fencing, attached to the trees around perimeter of the areas (with either 2x4’s or wooden post attachments) might be a good solution (much, much less expensive and easier than sinking posts into my totally rocky, hard-clay soil).

I found these 4 types, all claim to be able to stretch and return to original length to prevent sagging, damage to both the animal and fence, and provide a disincentive for attempted bull-type escapes:

Cameo: Nylon monofilament, 1,200lb breaking strength, no electrical conductor, posts 8-10’ apart

Finish Line by Bayco: 3.364mm monofilament, 1,250lb tensile breaking strength, no electrical conductor, posts 8-12’ apart

HFD Braid: Polyester sheath around a polyester core, 2,500lb breaking strength, 4 strands of copper throughout for optional electrifying, posts 50’ apart

Supplemax: 4mm nylon monofilament, 1,250lb tensile breaking strength, no electrical conductor

Can anyone recommend one over another (and why)? Or warn against one (and why)?

Thank you!

Joseph

i’m not familiar with anything you posted. When I re-did all my horse fencing I only used No Climb 54 inch high, on heavy wood posts.
Tractor Supply carries it and it’s the safest type we have around here. Not cheap but it lasts a long time and in 6 years no rust or stretching.

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I think the OP is talking about singular stranded wires (not “fencing”, like welded wire or field fence or non-climb horse fence) - like you would use in an electric fence.

I don’t think I’d want to use anything with that high a breaking strength. Horses can panic when caught, so you generally want fenc that they’re unlikely to be caught in (small hole woven or welded wire) or that will break relatively easily (board or vinyl). Then you can put a deterrent type barrier on the top or inside, like electric tape or wire.

Maybe some other folks will chime in with experience with high tension wire, but I’ve never used it.

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@Josephny - I have no experience with high tensile fences (acrylic, metal or otherwise).

My recommendation for a project like yours is to use relatively inexpensive poly wire, with a good fence charger. You can do three strand or four - all or 2 two with a charge (top and bottom carrying a charge). We charge all strands on our electric fence - because we have a sneaky pony!

I have had good luck with this brand of electric fence (below). Its easy to see, very easy to repair, and the horses respect it. There are insulators for fence posts that simply nail into trees. They are about 4" long and make the fences stick out from the tree. Super easy to install (and remove).

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Zareba-4…Y9-Z/203415926

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Zareba-Y…NY-Z/203266572

High tensile can really do a lot of damage when a thousand pound animal hits it with force or gets wrapped up in it. Think of one of those wire cheese cutters.

If you need to go with one of these products due to cost, make it and keep it HOT. That will keep your stock off and away from the fence, and really reduce your risk of serious injury. When you first put animals out on the field, do it in daylight, and walk them along the fence, in both directions, so they know where it is.

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those strengths indicated by OP are not high, actually to me appear to be very low as 9ga smooth wire that can be used as single strand electric fence has a PSI rating of 200,000

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr…0-psi-4-000-ft

When I was young my Dad installed hi tensile wire fence for our horses. It was a long time ago, and we really didn’t know enough about what we were doing. By and large it was just fine. Until the day it wasn’t. My mare kicked through the fence and caught her hind leg at the hock and proceeded to saw on her leg with the fence trying to escape. We were lucky she managed to get herself unstuck before she did significant damage to the joint and that a neighbor saw her bleeding and let us know. As it was she severed an artery and needed nearly 100 stitches to close the very gnarly wound. Months and months of bandaging and wound care later she was pasture sound, but not really riding sound again.

As Simkie says, if you go that route make it and keep it hot. Or chose something that they can’t easily get caught in or which breaks before massive damage is done.

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Our old vet used to say, any kind of smooth wire or cable, horses won’t respect it.
Horses will lean into, scratch on, graze thru it and when they hit it and/or get hung on it, they will fight it.

Is worse than barbed wire, as horses tend to respect barbed wire because it bites and if they tangle with it, they feel it tearing at them, unlike smooth wire.

He was putting together way more horses with worse injuries from other wires than barbed wire, bad as barbed wire injuries are.

Now, hot wire works, as long as it is hot, which is not part of the time and not after a horse hits and tears it up.

If you have smooth wire and have to live with it, fine, is what you have and so take your chances.

Putting in new wire for horse fencing?
Well, there is better out there than smooth wire.

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Hi tensile heavy gauge wire can be a good fence IF it’s done properly with breakaway points. But you have to know what you are doing. If a horse is tangled in a fence, you want that fence to break & fall away, not stick into him or wrap around him.

Like bluey said, for a new fence, you have choices. I lined the hi-tensile my property came with (which IS built properly) with Horseguard’s bipolar tape. I love that tape & it would be my first choice for a new fence. You can attach it to anything & it doesn’t require grounding. You need a charger that can push thru some resistance, that’s it. The wide webbing also makes a good visual barrier.

”‹”‹”‹”‹”‹”‹

I would NEVER use Hi tensile…for all the reasons mentioned here. We have used and still do have miles of Cameo fencing…it is safe, easy to install and economical…but it MUST be used in conjunction with GOOD electric…we do top and bottom electric…two center strands of Cameo. Smooth, twisted BARBLESS wire is also good and two or three strands will hold horses without a strand of electric. Using trees to nail to makes a flexible fencing imperative. After having Cameo for over 25 years…I would not recommend it for use without electric and/or out of sight. Trees can fall on it and it doesn’t break…but without good electric horses can also walk/climb right through it!! (ps…Cameo is the same product as Bayco, but considerably cheaper…the Cameo people are long time friends of ours.) Good luck.

Agree with the others.
I’d use electric tape or rope. You can still string it from your trees.

Another consideration is attaching fencing to live trees. It will damage or kill them over time. They move with the wind so no fence will stay tight on a tree. Nothing will be straight either. I’d think metal T posts and electric tape or even electric wire would be safer and economical.

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Please look into Horseguard fencing. Wire fencing is just an accident waiting to happen

I’ve had electric (first wire, now poly rope) fencing on trees for decades - and Wellscroft Fence in SW NH has high-tensile on trees (for sheep, not horses), so it’s not just me - and I don’t find either of these points to be true.

Nor do the trees that I find with old fence wire (field fencing or barbed wire) embedded deep in them (some dating back the better part of a century) look at all damaged (though a chain saw blade might be if they’re cut carelessly!). And last year when rebuilding my fenceline from the '70s-'90s I found a number of old plastic insulators which I’d nailed directly into the tree, some 1/2 buried, some completely surrounded by a healthy tree with just a plastic disk (the top of the insulator) visible. The tree seems to grow around it just as it would a dead branch stub.

Now I know that the fencing will be maintained more easily if the insulators (assuming electric here) are attached to a board - some use 2x4, I use 1x2 or 1x3 - and that board nailed onto the tree with fender washers under the nailhead. The board should then be pushed out as the tree grows.

I also find that doing this makes it easier/quicker to attach the insulators to the board and get the spacing right, as I can do that in the barn where I just mark all the boards in advance and run through them putting an insulator at each mark.

While I don’t notice the trees moving much as close to their base as the fence sits, electric fencing should move freely through its insulators so what movement there is shouldn’t cause strain on the wire. I suppose theoretically this could cause abrasion on today’s poly rope, but in real life, I haven’t seen any problems, at least in the 7 years since I first put a poly rope fence on trees when my sister got horses again. The 14-gauge wire fence was maintained for a couple of decades, 1977-1996.

I have problems from fallen trees/limbs, large animals (moose, bear, maybe deer) going through the fence, and water-swept debris, but not from the trees that the fence itself is attached to (unless they fall over, which is rare, but sometimes a dead tree is in the convenient spot and I use it for as long as it will last).

I will always use a tree preferentially over putting in a post. Especially in our intervale (=floodplain) field, every corner and gate has to be braced even for low-tension wire because the ground gets so soft when saturated, but trees brace themselves (roots!) and save me a lot of work.

Plus - and this is a new one to me; I just found it out last winter, my first with a poly rope fence (vs. wire) out in the field where there are no trees - with snow/rain/freeze/thaw/freeze cycles, and poly rope instead of the thinner wire, the snow’s crust will freeze around the lower strand(s) and then as it settles it will pull the T-posts and fiberglass rods (I use a combination) deeper into the ground in the soft silt. Last spring I had to go along the fenceline and pull many of the fenceposts up by several inches. In the woods, with the same soil, where the fence is on trees, I just had to clear a few branches.

Wow, I can’t believe I wrote that much about this! But I’m proud of my fences, which I keep snug and neat, and I’ve had nothing but good experiences using trees as the posts, at least for the low-tension electric fencing I use.

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High tensile wire, properly installed AND ELECTRIFIED is a reasonable fencing. Once the horses learn that it “bites” they will treat it with the same respect they treat any other fence that “bites.”

For what is being proposed using ceramic insulators screwed into the trees being used as “posts” or “corners” with the fence material (rope, braid, or narrow tape, all electrified) should be satisfactory. But such a system should also be considered “temporary” until posts can be properly set and lines clearly established.

G.