whip for long lining

I am going to be trying out long lining with my horse this spring. I’ve never done it before, but he’s very good with lunging and I have several ladies at my barn who are experience with long lining and I’m sure could show me the ropes.

The one thing they don’t seem to use though is any sort of whip. I do think my gelding is going to need a whip to get him going at times because he does need it when lunging. In watching various youtube how-to videos re long lining, one person mentioned that a lunge whip will be difficult to use since it’s so top heavy and pulls your wrist down. He suggested a well balanced carriage driving whip.

I’m looking for recommendations on an economical whip that is well balanced (sorry if this sounds ignorant, I really don’t know much about whips other than my lunge whip and dressage whip). I’m planning on encouraging my horse to make a very large circle, i.e. pretty much staying along the rail in our ring vs. a tiny circle. The lines I’m considering buying are 30 ft. Not sure if this makes a difference in the length needed.

Thanks!

I use a long driving style whip, because a longe whip is too heavy for me when I have lines to work with too. My long line whip is an inexpensive nylon one, no idea of brand, but it is about 56" long with a drop lash of about 8". It is nylon, with a grippy rubber typical whip handle, I don’t usually touch the horse with it but it’s a visual reinforcement and can make noise if needed. If I had a really slow pokey horse I’d probably use a longe whip.

I have a cheap, reasonably light, lunge whip that I cut off the lash to about 18".

I always use a whip long lining and I use a cheap $15 “buggy whip” I bought from TSC. Its about 4 1/2’ long with a lash of about 20". Enough to “crack” if needed but not so much its always dragging and under foot.

Unless you’re talented with a whip with a long lash and know how to furl and un-furl (which I am trying here and there) you’d want a whip with a relatively short lash, else you’ll end up tangled up. :lol:

It is much harder using a whip, but I think its a skill worth acquiring.

Well, we are in the opposite camp, like whips with LONG lashes. We feel that if you can’t REACH the horse to TOUCH him with the lash, your whip is pretty useless. If you don’t actually plan to use it, why even have it? Whip cracking does make noise, but our horses at least, figure out the noise means nothing and will ignore the noise later. Whip crack is often “overdone” with noise, when instead, the lash should be out there touching him LIGHTLY to show you are NOT to be ignored. Word command is given, whip touch means he MUST do as asked, NOW.

Like any other horse tool, bit, crop, spurs, the long lash whip is controlled by the person, helps horse with those light touches, to bend, go forward as asked. Horse is NOT afraid of whip or jumping around if whip is used near him or touching him. Really important, since whip in the carriage is a huge aid in your driving, helping you develop his bending, from the vehicle. You have no legs driving, whip replaces them for the horse.

I think 30ft lines will be a useful size, while keeping in mind that handler is ALWAYS moving in an interior circle to the horse out on the lines. So handler may be doing a 10-12-15ft circle, with horse out at the end of his long lines. Lines going around his rump, will shorten length a bit, yet doing LARGE circles helps keep horse from being sharply bent ALL the time, like short lines cause.

You may need to do some extra homework, with a long lash whip, because you NEED to hit what you aim at. You need to hit “target” LIGHTLY, like a stroke with a finger, if possible. Whip use is NOT punishment, but an aid in forward when asked, bending if needed, on his side.

I will agree that purchased long-lining whips are badly weighted, top heavy and never have a long enough lash to be actually useful. Hard to use, wears your wrist out, totally ineffective to the horse as an aid because you can’t reach him.

We buy light, inexpensive Driving whips, usually with a LONG stick of 5 to 6ft. We have found it easier to have a longer stick to direct the lash accurately, than going with short stick and even longer lash length. Whips can lead a hard life here, so I tend to buy less expensive ones, $20 range or less if possible. Doesn’t hurt as bad if they have an accident, ending their usefulness!! We got some real nice, inexpensive whips from Country Carriages USA, which had long sticks. Nice enough to even use showing! I usually get several whips at a time, when I find them like this. They are nice and light, have held up well to some hard use. I keep a new one back for shows, so it looks nice.

http://www.countrycarriagesusa.com/

I remove the short black whip lash end, then add length on to the whip lash loop with parachute cord. I make loop ends on the parachute cord so one end loops onto whip stick loop, then black lash end is looped onto parachute cord extension. You end up with whip and long enough lash to use for long lining. I can make it as long as needed, reach that horse out on the lines, front Leader in the Tandem or Four if needed. Cheap fix, keeps weight of whip top much lighter than what we have been able to find or afford, from other whip sellers. Husband likes the lighter whips, says they don’t pull on his wrists with heavier kinds of lash cords. That gets very tiring to your hands, wrist, arms, on long drives or in working horses on the long lines.

So you might give the longer whip stick, add-on lash idea a try. Take time to practice before getting the horse out in front of you. Maybe some long-lining lessons with a SKILLED Dressage trainer who long lines. Many trainers long line, not all are skilled with lines on the horse. We have not had great luck with “gadgets” like side reins to gain headsets. Seems easier to achieve with JUST the long lines alone, and we are in no hurry with our horses. It takes TIME for horse to gain skill in self-carriage, develop the MUSCLE to carry himself like that. Adding on the gadget to force nose in, made things harder, take much longer to have horse understand how to carry himself correctly. I am NOT going to be holding up his BIG head with the reins, he needs to do that himself while learning to be collected, putting hind end under his body. Side reins just have our horses hanging on the bit, no real collection or lightness. Our method, works for us, so it could be useful to you in your long-term training thoughts and plans.

Oh yeah, a dirty whip lash might be MORE useful long lining, than a clean lash. The dirt adds a little weight, might be helpful in better control to direct the lash where you want it. Husband drags his long lash thru a muddy puddle a few times, when he has a new whip to use. Says dirt gives a better “feel” to the lash in using it. Try lash clean first, then dirty the lash and see if it is more useful. If you like a lash clean better, take off the extension cord length and wash it, put it back on the whip stick.

I agree, that your whip should touch the horse. If you use a short whip lash, you would have to step closer to the horse to reach him, which could put you in kicking range.

Long lining should mimic 100% everything that happens while driving hitched - including the whip.

I see so many people who think their horse “doesn’t need a whip”, or that say “he doesn’t like the whip.”

Long lining is the perfect time to desensitize to your whip and also to come to understand why you need the whip, not the horse.

And yes, lighter is better when it comes to whips. I was using a lunge whip while long lining and it didn’t take long before I couldn’t even pick up a pen because my wrists hurt so badly. Lightweight everything for me, now!

I use a very light Fleck driving whip for ground driving and a lunge whip for two line lunging (long lining) Which do you plan on doing ? If you are long lining it’s often helpful to run one line around the back of the horse instead of over his back, if you are not comfortable with a whip. You can sort of flip it on his butt, but you have to be careful to keep it high and taut without pulling his head around.

Fleck also have a lightweight telescoping lunge whip; [URL=“http://www.doversaddlery.com/fleck-carbon-lunge-whip/p/X1-1461/”]http://www.doversaddlery.com/fleck-carbon-lunge-whip/p/X1-1461/

http://www.drivingessentials.com/brands_fleck_main.php

[QUOTE=Equibrit;7410516]
If you are long lining it’s often helpful to run one line around the back of the horse instead of over his back, if you are not comfortable with a whip. You can sort of flip it on his butt, but you have to be careful to keep it high and taut without pulling his head around.

Fleck also have a lightweight telescoping lunge whip; QUOTE]

I would strongly suggest doing your long lining with outside line going around the rump ALL THE TIME, instead of across the horse’s back, to your hands. With line around the rump, you have MUCH better body control of both ends of the horse. He can’t swing that rump out if line holds it in place. Whip in hand can encourage forward. You should NEVER be flicking the lines as an encouragement to forward, that is why you have the whip. Slapping lines to start or go faster, on horse rump while hitched, is only a TV thing. Stuff like that CAN get some horses kicking, along with using a very short whip on horse rump.

I am not sure what the advantage of a telescoping lunge whip would be, in having one. Length on the Dover one’s stick is 71", but doesn’t tell you lash length. Might not reach horse. Solid stick whip won’t be collapsing on you when not asked for. I saw a fad of telescoping Driving whips come and go, they just didn’t work well. We actually have a 4-in-hand telescoping whip like that, unused. I got it for husband, but he started laughing so hard when he attempted to use it, he was unable to drive. He had a lot of fun shooting the length out and back in, but then would start laughing again. Had to put it away, where it still sits.

You might need to change the whips to gain light balance, making it easier to hold whip comfortably, not having tip and lash pulling on your wrist.

And a secret with whips? Is that MOST folks never hold that “handle” area! Handle is NOT where a whip will balance on your hand, that is almost always up the stick, above the handle.

Thank you everyone for the suggestions! I agree that something long enough to be able to touch my horse with it is necessary. I like the idea of adding more cord to a lightweight whip. I tried the long lining today and it went very well! I did more of a lunging with 2 lines sort of thing at first, first with the outside line going across his back, then going behind his butt. Then I tried ground driving vs the lunging. Both will take some getting used to with handling both lines but it was very engaging mentally and physically for him as opposed to hand walking which is what we have been doing. It’s also wonderful to have control over the other side of him - why didn’t I try this sooner?!

Try to stay off to one side of him or walking your own circle center inside his circle, to be able to view his profile for knowing when to reward for giving to the bit, keeping horse light in your hands.

MOST folks don’t go fast enough behind the horse to keep the contact truly just “light contact”. Horses will almost always out-walk you if they can, which happens worse in ground driving. As the handler behind him, you may not be seeing that your rein contact is more “hanging” on his mouth because you are going slower than he is. You are HOLDING him slow, all bit pressure. Horse gets no reward for obedience, often gets “bullish” on the lines, since bit feel never changes in his mouth. You truly WANT forward in a Driving horse, so you have to free up his face, usually by moving yourself faster, to teach him to “give” to the bit, not hold him back. You can see this face-giving to the bit, better during ground driving if you are off to one side of him. Hope you feel like getting more fit, since you may need to jog if ground driving!

We run the long lines down on animal sides, about 1/3 of the way up from belly line… If you have a driving harness, the saddle has shaft loops to run lines thru and around his rump, back to your hands. A Surcingle may need a couple added metal rings, welded shut, at least 3", so lines slide easily, even twisted. We just use a couple HEAVY cable ties, to hold those big rings on the smaller surcingle rings. If you only have a saddle, you need to tie stirrups together under belly, then run long lines thru. Tying the stirrups prevents them rising, flying around, as you pull the line. Flying up will delay the rein signal, before horse feels it. Loose stirrups just have way too much play, when used as long line supports.

So whatever equipment you have, you can use to correctly long line your horse.

If using a surcingle or Driving saddle from a harness, I STRONGLY recommend leaving the long lines down low on body, for BOTH ground driving AND long lining. It is VERY easy for horse to turn when lines are high on his back. When he turns UNDER those high up lines, you have LOST CONTROL. Half a spin, he has lines crossed and probably will CONTINUE spinning to rip the lines out of your hands. This is a NASTY trick they learn FAST and repeat to get away from you.

So keeping “horse BETWEEN the lines all the time” when doing any ground work on long lines, is safer for you AND horse.

[QUOTE=goodhors;7411723]

I am not sure what the advantage of a telescoping lunge whip would be, in having one. Length on the Dover one’s stick is 71", but doesn’t tell you lash length.[/QUOTE]

From Dover ad linked above;

“Made in Germany. This Fleck Composite Lunge Whip features a lightweight, carbon composite shaft that telescopes for easy storage. Ultra light, 9’6” long plus 13’4" nylon lash. Black "

Lightweight being the advantage.

I found/ordered a supposedly very lightweight Westfield lunge whip for ~$20. Was looking at all the driving whips with intention of adding more cord, but the “lighweight and balanced” lunge whip I found seemed like it would fit the bill.

goodhors - Thank you very much for all of the tips! I see the point re keeping the outside line around the butt vs. over the back. I am using a surcingle and have the lines run through the rings on the side (the lowest ones without being in between his legs). In end of March/early April I will hopefully be able to start adding some trotting, so I am hoping to become proficient with both types of long lining (the lunging with two lines, me on circle and horse on larger circle, and ground driving).

It was really neat to see my horse actually thinking and concentrating and was fun for me too to try something new with him.

[QUOTE=Equibrit;7413313]
From Dover ad linked above;

“Made in Germany. This Fleck Composite Lunge Whip features a lightweight, carbon composite shaft that telescopes for easy storage. Ultra light, 9’6” long plus 13’4" nylon lash. Black Lightweight being the advantage.[/QUOTE]

Thanks, I didn’t see that description when I looked at them. So the telescoping part is for storage.

Not the reason with the long Driving whips that telescoped. Driver wanted to touch horse with the long stick, evidently not good at managing their long lash. "