Wool saddle pads and heat management

[SharonA]

We’re doing an organized pleasure ride tomorrow, and the temps in New England will be in the low 80s; humidity will probably be up there but not as hideous as it could be. The ride is 15 miles over easy to moderate terrain, which I know is nothing for you trail gods and goddesses out there, but it will be our longest so far, so I want to make sure it’s fun for Herself.

I ride in a dressage saddle recently fit to the horse, usually with a quilted cotton pad. But, having heard that wool was better for heat management, I got a wool-lined pad – I suppose it’s as thin as you can get and still have the fleecy wool (it’s not the really thick chunky fleece; a much lighter weave but still fluffy in the saddle area, and the spine channel is open, just the cotton backing).

Will the wool pad interfere with a saddle designed to fit with the thinner quilted pads, or will the wool squish down anyway? Do y’all think that wool or cotton makes a difference in heat management?

Thanks hugely!

[Steif]

Medical grade sheepskin does control temperature and is also a natural semi-conductor which enhances blood circulation.

[Guilherme]

Wool is probably marginally better than cotton but for your purposes it probably does not make much difference.

It’s not uncommon here to work when the temp runs into the low 90s. I’ve used cotton, wool, and fleece. They all appear to do the job. I avoid the synthetics based upon my experiences. As in all things YMMV.

If the fit of the saddle is “tight” then adding any additional padding risks creating “pinch” points. If the fit is correct (a bit looser) then you’ve got some room and probably not any problems.

Fleece is nice, but tends to be thick and can interfere with fit. I used a Fleeceworks pad the other day on my mare and ended up with a couple of pressure points under the cantle. Upon inspection it appears that the thicness of the fleece at the withers was just enough to very slightly tip the saddle backwards towards the croup. I gave the pad to my wife for her mare and it works very well for them. I’m going to stick with the thinner cotton pads and my cavalry blanket.

I once did a 15 mile easy trail ride in a Stubben Tristan dressage saddle. My comment at the end: “NEVER AGAIN!!!” :lol: Dressage saddles are great for flat work on highly prepared surfaces for short working sessions. They lack the depth of seat and support that I find desireable for riding longer times and distances. I hope you do not replicate my experience; it was not pleasant!

Good luck on your ride.

G.

[Auventera_Two]

Lots of endurance riders compete in dressage saddles. If it fits you and your horse, it’s not a problem.

[BaileyTW]

I have a Wintec Isabell dressage saddle I love for long rides. It has a wider seat area for my butt and a nice deep seat. Plus it isn’t like straight down drop for my legs, I can shorten my stirrups up and use it to pop over some smaller jumps in. I take it on hunter paces and my own trail runs up and down hills and over small jumps all the time.

But yeah, Sheepskin is awesome.

But if your saddle fits your horse perfectly with a thin pad, I wouldn’t go to anything much thicker. English saddles arent really designed to need a lot of padding if they fit properly. For 15 miles, I wouldn’t worry too much, and if its easy terrain, your good fitting saddle and a natural material hould fit fine. Like others have mentioned, I would just stay away from synthetics.

[SharonA]

Thanks!

Thanks for the help – the ride was great. I used the wool pad; no issues, no dry spots, no soreness, etc. Now, how do I wash the thing?

The saddle is very cushy and deep with very wide panels, and I come with extra padding myself, so we were comfortable.

[gabz]

@SharonA;3375240

Thanks for the help – the ride was great. I used the wool pad; no issues, no dry spots, no soreness, etc. Now, how do I wash the thing?

The saddle is very cushy and deep with very wide panels, and I come with extra padding myself, so we were comfortable.

Is it a woven wool or a felt wool?
Using as large a “trough” or bucket (muck bucket?) as you can find, make some soft sudsy water (horse shampoo works good) and gently squish the sudsy water through and through the wool pad. The woven wool pads - the MORE you manipulate them, the more likely they are to shrink - so LESS squishing is better.

Once you think the pad is reasonably clean, dump water, roll up the pad and squeeze out as much liquid as you can. Rinse several times with either a hose or squishing gently.

If possible, put it in your washer for a good spin, then hang to dry in a SHADY breezy place. If you can, lay it flat over grid / wire shelves…

[Guilherme]

[QUOTE=SharonA;3375240]
Thanks for the help – the ride was great. I used the wool pad; no issues, no dry spots, no soreness, etc. Now, how do I wash the thing? [/QUOTE]

This is the pad, right?

Did it come with washing instructions? If so, follow them. If not use Woolite (or a similar cleaner) in cold water. Hand wash or use the “delicate” cycle in the washer. I don’t let them spin. Press the water out by hand. Line dry it (use of a mechanical drier will likely leave you with a “postage stamp pad” :no: ).

Or, put another way, treat a wool pad like you would any good quality item of wool clothing that can be cold water washed.

Good luck.

G.

[Romantic_Rider]

Mom and I only use Toklat Woolback pads on our endurance horses. They are great. We’ve never had any problems, and we just put in the washer on delicate and let them spin, then hang them out to dry. Never had any trouble with shrinking.

[CatOnLap]

Maybe its just me and the cheap 100% woven wool pads I use for both trail riding and schooling dressage, but I can throw them in the washer on the gentle cycle with Murphy’s oil soap or woolite and let them spin, also throw them in the dryer on low setting for 30 minutes until mostly dry and let them dry completely after that on my saddle rack. They haven’t shrunk, they come up wonderfully clean and the washer I have removes a lot of the trapped hair.

[gabz]

@CatOnLap;3415194

Maybe its just me and the cheap 100% woven wool pads I use for both trail riding and schooling dressage, but I can throw them in the washer on the gentle cycle with Murphy’s oil soap or woolite and let them spin, also throw them in the dryer on low setting for 30 minutes until mostly dry and let them dry completely after that on my saddle rack. They haven’t shrunk, they come up wonderfully clean and the washer I have removes a lot of the trapped hair.

My version of woven wool are the 100% wool pads that are woven on a loom. As in a wool navajo blanket. I’m already seeing some shrinkage in my old wool saddle pad (15 years old) with the zipper pattern.

THere are many now that are supposedly 100% wool, but they actually use a cotton or cotton blend for the up-down fiber that the wool is woven over and under. (Typical $30 - $50 dollar Mayatex, but not ALL.)

Here’s the description from one $100 navajo “A real cowboy Navajo, not a show pad. Hand-loomed in 100% wool. No nylon or polyester strings anywhere. Wear leathers are laced on with leather strips. Designed to wick away moisture and provide cool, comfortable support. Can be washed or rinsed off and will last for years.Colors: black, natural, red, royal, stripe. Size: 32” x 32"."

But… as in all things, your mileage may vary (YMWV). : )

[birdsong]

So what of the wool felt pads? I have one that was left out by mistake and was rained on. The thing must have weighed 50 lb!! It is white and dried with some green spots…what now?

[Diamond_Jake]

Leather Therapy makes a saddle pad and blanket wash. I talked to the owner this weekend, and he put his blessing on me diluting the wash in a spray bottle, one ounce wash to about eight ounces of water, and spraying the underneath of my pad after a ride.

Maybe you could try something like that, or soaking it in a big tub of water and vinegar solution. The vinegar should break down any fungus issues, right? You’ll just want to rinse it well, for the smell will stay with it.

Can you put it in the dryer at a laundromat?

[CatOnLap]

"THere are many now that are supposedly 100% wool, but they actually use a cotton or cotton blend for the up-down fiber that the wool is woven over and under. (Typical $30 - $50 dollar Mayatex, but not ALL.) "

yes, you are right. The ones I have cost about $30 and the base fiber appears to be a sturdy cotton string, with a thick soft wool hand woven into it.
Mine are about 5-6 years old now and have maintained their loft and softness, but they no longer have that bright new look.