Yeah!!! Another fencing thread!!!

Sorry everyone to take up more board space, I’ve looked at a TON of threads but could use and appreciate some input…

Ok, what would you recommend for 40’ by 100’ runs, several, in a row, for fencing? I’m leaning toward no climb with Ramm or wood top rail, but with all of the corners and spots where fencing would meet, wondering what type of fencing would 1) hold up the best with that size pen, with horses sharing a lot of the fencing, and 2) be the most logical as far as bracing and attaching the corners, solid installation, etc. We will have slow feeders so do not anticipate a lot of chewing, but am considering the hot Ramm rail for the top if not hot wire in the wood perhaps just on the fencing shared between horses to encourage friendly manners.

We are in a desert climate and there is very little to no vegetation horses will be trying to reach over/through the fence for.

Also, we will very likely be doing the install ourselves but have had a lot of experience with a lot of general farm construction work.

My friend with a boarding barn (approx 20-25 horses) has used pipe panels for all of her stall runs, although they are not as long as yours.

We have used good quality, not wimpy pipe panels with 2 3/8" steel posts.

We have had different size needs over the years and those have been very easy to adjust by pulling the pipe posts and moving them and panels over to the different configurations.

Now, some buy the cheap panels, horses play over them and bend them where, after a few years, they look bad and some are even dangerous.

While you don’t want buffalo proof panels, that if a horse hits them the horse will break something, if you have horses on both sides of a pipe panel fence, they have to be sturdy so they hold up to horse play.

I don’t think there is a horse proof fence, they can get hurt in any you use.

No climb on small places will soon look bent here and there just from horses rubbing on it, V-mesh will not do so as much, but is more expensive.

From all you may use, once you make a decision what works best for you, make the best of it, nothing is perfect.

I’d think about pipe or electric braid. I wouldn’t do no climb and I wouldn’t use wood if you can avoid it as they tend to chew it if bored in smaller spaces.

The downside of good pipe fencing is that you have to paint it pretty much once a year. But it holds up well and can take some over the fence play. That’s what we had exclusively when I lived in N TX and it worked well.

For what you’re describing, I would honestly think hard about using 2-3 strands of electrobraid. It’s more sturdy than standard wire, is easy to put up (and to to fix), is low maintenance, and horses respect it and stay off of it so you don’t have to worry about cross fence harassment.

Thanks, all.

Just wish good metal fencing wasn’t so expensive!

Even the good metal fencing has it limitations. At my barn, there are a few runs of that 40’ x 100’ size. The fence is welded steel pipe, one top rail only, with V-mesh. The fences are around 5’ 6" high. I love the fencing but it is not perfect for close quarters.

In two particular pens adjacent to each other I was having a problem with my mares being aggressive with each other. The V-wire had been patched but still was warped looking. When I mentioned it to the owner, he told me he had had some serious vet bills with his own horses there because two mares would back up to each other and commence a double-barrel kicking war.

I finally realized it was only the two pens with gates right next to each other which had a problem. When a person entered the pen with feed, the horses would get competitive. So be sure and place the gates as far apart as possible when you build your pens, which means in the middle of the 40’ side if you have more than two paddocks. Of course, keeping the feeders far apart is also important, and in fact, that solved most of my problem (until I finally put the two mares in together and now they are happy – ironic, I know).

Injuries happen when horses fight or play across the fence, so I agree that it should be hot.

Horse Guard Electric Tape and keep it HOT, HOT, HOT! It won’t break the bank or your horses on the rare instances they may get into a fight through it.

I think the main consideration with runs like that is that horses will kick and fight through the fence, so I wouldn’t go with wire. Hot rope, hot tape, that hot horseguard stuff. Something hot that won’t shatter or rip them up should they stick a leg through it.

Either go big with something like Noble mesh pipe panels or use hot tape, at least four strands.

Centaur coated wire, make it hot and tall.

Not runs like what you are asking about but this is our fence, If using wood post I’d make both sides hot so they don’t chew.

Mine aren’t quite that big - ~20’x80’ - but I’ve been really happy with the electric rope that I used. It’s hot, they all respect it, and I can pull posts and rearrange as needed.

Thank you! Good suggestions and some options to consider and reconsider.

Random question about the hot tape; if we have waterers shared between runs along the fence line, how do you design the fence with the break there, without interrupting the flow? Was envisioning, with whichever fencing we go with, keeping the top rail but having it open underneath for access to the water…

Southern Yankee, I like that fence!

FWIW, I had a young horse break a chip off into her ankle joint on either the pipe fence (it was a rough, very heavy gauge pipe fence–not sure what that is called) or a kick from another horse (hard to say). So I don’t know how I feel about it for a shared fence line, unless it is HOT.

I realize horses will get hurt and this is anecdotal, but it was a huge, huge disappointment for me.

SY, are all your strands hot?

[QUOTE=TrotTrotPumpkn;8291293]
SY, are all your strands hot?[/QUOTE]

Yes, the horses wouldn’t need it hot but we have cows/calves and had to beef it up for them. We had 4 strands but added a 5th when we got the cows. With 4 strands there was too much of a gap and the calves could bounce right through it when they were little. It wasn’t hard to make everything hot and it’s nice to have the piece of mind knowing they won’t be touching the fence. And they put less wear and tear on the fence knowing it’s hot.

Because everyone loves watching babies run and play

I’m starting to narrow it down, I think, thanks everyone!

Metal is out, otherwise I’ll blow my shelter/fencing budget with just fencing. The coated wire seems like a good, safe (relative) option and it looks nice, especially the brown strands. Plus I did not realize how inexpensive it is! Might be able to afford trees.

Yankee, how far apart are you posts spaced? Can one get away with 10’? And can I work at your place? It is so gorgeous!

I’m leaning towards 3 strands wire and hot Ramm rail on top for the perimeter, mainly for aesthetics and won’t have many corners to worry about bracing in, and 4 strands wire in the inner fencing sections, unless 3 might even be a bit safer in considering the horse that rolls too close to the fence, less to get tangled up in.

[QUOTE=eastendjumper;8291392]
I’m starting to narrow it down, I think, thanks everyone!

Metal is out, otherwise I’ll blow my shelter/fencing budget with just fencing. The coated wire seems like a good, safe (relative) option and it looks nice, especially the brown strands. Plus I did not realize how inexpensive it is! Might be able to afford trees.

Yankee, how far apart are you posts spaced? Can one get away with 10’? And can I work at your place? It is so gorgeous!

I’m leaning towards 3 strands wire and hot Ramm rail on top for the perimeter, mainly for aesthetics and won’t have many corners to worry about bracing in, and 4 strands wire in the inner fencing sections, unless 3 might even be a bit safer in considering the horse that rolls too close to the fence, less to get tangled up in.[/QUOTE]

You weren’t asking me, but FWIW, I have coated wire as my perimeter fence and posts are 11’-12’ apart. You will want to look at the manual for the rail you choose, as that will likely limit your spacing more than the coated wire.

I think more vs. less (like the 3 you mention) is safer. Less likely to have the space or desire to get a leg (or head) through if it is hot. Just don’t make it too low to the ground. It’s better if you can mow under it and less likely a horse will paw into it.

My top rail and second from the bottom are hot (5 rails). I may go all hot along the highway though.

Here, no one depends on any hot fence for permanent or perimeter fences, because they can’t be kept reliably hot.

We have tumbleweeds get hung on fences, if not take them down.
Those ground the fences with any moisture or ice.
We have snowdrifts that ground fences, have deer and antelope that tear any hot fences, just not the kind you want to have where it really matters that it contains your critters.

For an added fence, like over a regular fence, yes, hot works fine, when it works and it if doesn’t, the other fence will keep stock in until you get it hot again.

SY love the phrase “hot and tall”. Tall is key because they cannot be tempted to lean over from the top. Love your fencing!

I’ve had a few horses with a bad fence reputation :wink: After several bust outs, injuries, and jumpers, we finally decided to try the Electro Braid. I’ve never been more pleased with a fence in my life. It is 100% safe… we had a freak accident where my three year old got his leg caught in the middle wire, the wire stretched out with him as he took off and after some bucking and kicking he got himself free. After looking him over, no cuts or injuries whatsoever. Just a small abrasion where the rubbing of the wire cut the hair a bit shorter.

We use this for all our fencing now. Pastures, large fields, arena, and dry lot. We have it hooked up to a small solar panal and it does the rest for us.
Check out their website here http://www.electrobraid.com/

Hope this helps :slight_smile: