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Barn building quotes....really?!?

Around The Farm
#1

First of all, I decided I’d be smart about this and get several bids, and I am astonished in the differences in price between different builders for the same darn structure! I’m wanting a 36x36 pole barn with two stalls, a tack room, wash stall, and storage room, with a concrete everywhere but the stalls. Quotes ranged from 25K-90K for the exact same options. Is this normal?!? Or am I being completely taken advantage of in regards to the higher bids? I expected maybe a 20K or so difference but a 65K difference seems a little odd to me.

Secondly, the 25K quote is from a very reputable company and yet after sending me the quote I cannot for the life of me get a hold of the rep to move forward with this, he wont respond to my emails or calls…so now I’m thinking if they can’t return a simple email, how in the world can I trust them to build my barn in a timely fashion?

I guess I’m just needing to vent a little, and wondering if you guys encountered these same issues when trying to build your barns. Also, if you guys have any builder recommendations in the midwest area, please send them my way. I’ve already gotten quotes from Morton, Wick, and Cleary (and some independent contractors as well).

#2

When we built our custom house my SO’s uncle (a contractor) gave us a list of reputable contractors. From there we took the middle of the pack bid. That builder gave us insight into what was included (versus the high end builder didn’t mention things like marble window sills although they MAY have been included).

Look at the details - thickness of the concrete (4-6 inches, for no large equipment 4 inches will do - big trucks / heavy machinery is more like 6 inches.

Are the posts steel or wood? How thick are the posts? What about the stall material? Metal on top of stall boards to prevent cribbing/chewing? Size of stalls? What is included? What is NOT included? Do they have pictures of previous projects? References (previous customers) where you can go and inspect their work? Does it include electric/ PVC piping for running the electric? Do they have rebar in the concrete? Do they pack it down using a vibrating machine?

#3

I’m thinking the 25K quote he gave you is for the shell alone. Adding everything else (concrete, stalls, tack, wash, etc) I am expecting 50K+, depending on how nicely trimmed and how well each component fits together. 90K certainly is not out of realm of realistic possibility.

1 Like
#4

That is frustrating. The quotes I received were all closer together ($25-45,000 but the upper end was stick-built on site and the lower were at least partially prefab). But most of the quotes were from very similar Amish-type builders based out of PA. I did find that some of them had different defaults for things that I would never think about, like whether the roof sheathing is OSB or plywood, how far apart the roof studs are, how much hardware was included, etc. Is it possible that this is what’s happening here?

What I learned from my barn building experience was to be EXTREMELY SPECIFIC about what you want and expect, and make sure you’re talking about the same thing. When my barn was finished, none of the stall or aisle doors touched the ground. :mad: Apparently they assumed that I was pouring the concrete afterwards, even though I told them I was working with an existing foundation. They ate some of the correction, as they should have, but I ended up having to pay an extra $450 to get the stall doors lengthened. So, look at any drawings and spec sheets VERY carefully to make sure you’re getting what you think you’re getting.

As to whether you should go forward with a company that doesn’t return your calls, I had those issues with several arena builders. I had a similar attitude about it: that if you can’t respond to a simple email you’re just going to be a pain to work with. There was only one guy who gave me an estimate in under the time he said he would, and I’m happy I chose him for that reason and many others.

One idea for you: if you like another company that quoted you above $25K, take them that quote and ask if they can match it or at least make some concessions. That actually worked for me and I saved several thousand dollars doing it.

2 Likes
#5

The $25K seems low for all you want to me. (But then, maybe where you live that is the normal price for all of that.)

Is there a cluster of bids that is close together? I would work with the clustered bunch.

It is clear that they are not offering you the exact same product with that big of a price range.
Do they all include or not include things like the site prep? Running water and electric?

1 Like
#6

I agree that it is ALL in the details. We are renovating a 21 stall facility right now and we have been acting as the general contractors. Be VERY specific and organized. This has been a monumental undertaking - and I am an attorney who is no stranger to hard work!

We are in Unionville and had a very nicely made pole barn put up as an equipment & tractor shed with a seperate section with two stalls. The tractor and mower section is 24’ x 36’ and has a concrete floor, 3 windows, a man door, a sliding 8’ door and a sliding 10’ door. The stall section is 24’ x 24’ and has a dirt floor (stone dust to be added) with two simple stalls with metal framing and 2"x8" tongue and groove boards. That section also has an 8’ sliding door, a dutch door and three windows. The total cost for that building was about $30,000 WITHOUT the plumbing and electric but including everything that I mentioned above. It is classified as a “pole barn” but we sided it with board and batten and did a metal roof. Hope this helps.

#7

We paid $21K for a shell only (36 x 48), two 10 foot sliders, 4 dutch doors, and one entry door, a ridge vent and a 6’ overhang. Finished inside ourselves.

I would be leery of both low bid and high bid, I agree work with the middle and compare what you are getting in details. It is a very exciting thing to do but can also be very frustrating if not working with someone reputable. Don’t expect the low guy to suddenly return phone calls and emails once he has your money.

1 Like
#8

I’ve been getting bid’s for a 36x36 barn too. I found that most are coming in around 45-50k range for a VERY basic barn. I had no idea barns were so expensive before starting on this little adventure… even the prefab ones are in that range. I think i’m going to have to spend 60K to get everything that I want. I’d be wary of the 25k bid…

1 Like
#9

I have been pricing 36x48 barn with 10’ overhang on one side. 4 classic-equine stalls , wash stall, tack room with restroom and heat/ac , 2 stalls for hay/shavings storage , 4 exterior barn doors, metal roof with 6/12 slope. Prices have been $80K, $120K, $135K . This is in SC.

#10

[QUOTE=Valentina_32926;8059510]

Look at the details - thickness of the concrete (4-6 inches, for no large equipment 4 inches will do - big trucks / heavy machinery is more like 6 inches.

?[/QUOTE]

and not all concrete is equal, differing psi for different uses. Require a test pour if you want to ensure you getting what you want/paid for…lab test will cost a few hundred (and color or patterned will make a deal also)

and the foundation and slab area… are you using tension cable?

#11

I am in the process of the same thing. I would take a look at the PA pole builders and look for “specials” or winter pricing or whatever they are calling it. Some will have just what you want - but it may be in a garage form. Check out http://www.newpolebarn.com/ for their specials, pick one and make them stick to the price. I swear as soon as you say horse barn - price goes through the roof. “Garage for my husband” oh…much cheaper.

#12

For what it’s worth, I know in MN I am looking at apx $10,000 for just the material for a 36x36x12, 10’ lean, two 10x10 OH doors, one service door pole barn.

My husband is a general contractor, so I’m not getting bids, but for a completed barn, I’m sure I would be looking at north of $50,000.

Good luck!

#13

Please ‘search’ Coth for the builder threads !

  • Please search the builders threads …

I have used an independent builder as well as Morton and Cleary in the last ten years … Midwest area …

You must monitor ALL of them !

Morton offers superior quality in product / that does not ensure the workers ‘know’ horses !

Cleary was completely unacceptable … poor products … Ignorant RUDE STAFF … inconsistent attendance and ‘bait and switch’ on product … Could not even provide gates that were the correct size !

There was a thread a year ago ? ’ mountain girl ? Not sure of username … She asked about Cleary … Several of us told her not to use Cleary and why …
She used then …suffered the consequences and returned to Coth asking about the Cleary warranty / replacement …

not sure why ? … could not have been good

Good Luck … monitor closely & drink heavily !

#14

LOL thanks Zu ZU, I actually did read your thread about Cleary after receiving their quote and decided to steer clear, thanks to you! And yes, I’m starting to quickly realize that alcohol will be necessary during this endeavor :lol:

I was expecting to spend around $50-$60K for what I want, so it’s good to hear some of you have similar structures for around that price. I will definitely do more research on those builders who have given me similar quotes, as I haven’t spent a whole lot of time going through all of the differences between them.

I’m just a surprised how hard this all is, building our house was an absolute breeze in comparison!

#15

[QUOTE=Libby2563;8059550]
That is frustrating. The quotes I received were all closer together ($25-45,000 but the upper end was stick-built on site and the lower were at least partially prefab). But most of the quotes were from very similar Amish-type builders based out of PA. I did find that some of them had different defaults for things that I would never think about, like whether the roof sheathing is OSB or plywood, how far apart the roof studs are, how much hardware was included, etc. Is it possible that this is what’s happening here?

What I learned from my barn building experience was to be EXTREMELY SPECIFIC about what you want and expect, and make sure you’re talking about the same thing. When my barn was finished, none of the stall or aisle doors touched the ground. :mad: Apparently they assumed that I was pouring the concrete afterwards, even though I told them I was working with an existing foundation. They ate some of the correction, as they should have, but I ended up having to pay an extra $450 to get the stall doors lengthened. So, look at any drawings and spec sheets VERY carefully to make sure you’re getting what you think you’re getting.

As to whether you should go forward with a company that doesn’t return your calls, I had those issues with several arena builders. I had a similar attitude about it: that if you can’t respond to a simple email you’re just going to be a pain to work with. There was only one guy who gave me an estimate in under the time he said he would, and I’m happy I chose him for that reason and many others.

One idea for you: if you like another company that quoted you above $25K, take them that quote and ask if they can match it or at least make some concessions. That actually worked for me and I saved several thousand dollars doing it.[/QUOTE]

Yes, yes, and yes!! Great, specific advice. My quotes ranged from 30k-100k, I ended up spending around 40k for a basic version of what I wanted. Two of my neighbors told me – afterwards, when I seemed like I’d recovered from the horror that was barn building – that they spent an additional 7k & 15k on the site work. I was complaining about a 2k overage. Stay on it, good luck, and I agree – it IS harder than home building!

#16

I’ll third the advice about being very specific about what you want! Make sure you get an incredibly detailed quote that specifies every single detail. Let me repeat: get a quote and contract that specifies every.single.detail. A legitimate builder can provide you with such. A good quote should detail everything for the scope of the project. Every material, every labor detail, electric, water, drainage, every subcontractor, every piece of site prep, permitting, allowances for stall/window/finish choices, type of insulation (that’s important here, perhaps not where you are), types and specifics about materials, etc, etc, etc. You should literally look at a quote and not be able to find any detail that is ambiguous. Additionally, make sure it specifies the timeline budget and what will happen if that timeline is not met. Make sure that you have a payment schedule that details what will be completed by each payment.

I’m building a barn (larger than yours and different in scope, but have just gone through the quote process) and went with the contractor that could specify everything.

Additionally, anybody who is hard to get in touch with BEFORE you sign and contract and start building…run, obviously.

1 Like
#17

I built a 36x36 barn with 9’ lean along one side in NE Indiana in 2003. My quotes from Morton, Wick and Cleary varied as widely as yours.

Morton is a turn-key builder. They quote ALL the work, including excavation, concrete, plumbing and electric, and when they walk away from a project your horses are ready to walk in. Cleary quoted for a pole barn shell only. Wick was in-between.

I had the contractors out to our property so they could consider excavation needs, driveway extension, utilities, etc.

I’ve seen beautiful buildings from each of those companies, and heard unhappy stories about each as well. Being detailed - down to where you want the light switches - in your planning will get you the best service. Being sure about your plan, and resisting the urge to change your mind after construction has begun, will help keep your actual cost in line with your quote.

Finally, it’s a MUST to be present for at least part of every building day, both to observe and interact in a positive way with the crew, and to pick up the tiny bits and pieces (lots of screws and nails) that go astray each day.

If you plan carefully, building your own barn can for sure be a dream come true.

Incidentally, I used Cleary and was extremely happy with the service and end product. The materials and finish were excellent. They recommended subcontractors which I hired separately to do the excavation, concrete, plumbing and electric. My husband and I put up modular stalls and built the tack room. It was a good experience overall.

ETA: After everything, the Morton quote was just a little more expensive than going the way we did. If I had to build a barn that size or bigger again, I’d likely just use Morton for the convenience.

#18

I worked for a short time with an MD barn company. Like everyone is saying, depending on excavating, concrete work, quality and size of lumber, etc…prices can really vary.

I would want to know, what exactly am I getting for the price. You very well may be better off, getting a shell, built by one company, and having someone else do the inside of the barn. I sold a barn called a K building ( look them up as a Steele framed, secondary wood barn) and then we also sold the MD stalls to go in them. I personally LOVE MD barns and Barnmasters. They are built at a factory, and assembled on site. They are solid, burn resistant, kick proof, and can be torn down and relocated.

Good luck! Do not be afraid of asking the companies why you have price swings one way or the other. You are a potential customer and they should be happy to break it down and explain it to you. At least a good company will.

1 Like
#19

Yes, when dealing with contractors this is very normal.

My practice over the years has evolved. I disregard the lowest and highest bidders. The highest for obvious reasons. The lowest as it is often a “low ball” and they will “nickle and dime you” during the job. The fact that you can’t contact them is a hint that they really aren’t serious (but it’s only a hint; they might be serious but they also might be “low ballers”). Start with the second lowest and begin working your way up the chain.

With contractors you can’t be too picky in checking bona fides. Get the names of six satisfied customers and then go look at three jobs. Meet the owners. See if you smell any “rats” (like common last names, live in the same neighborhood, etc.). Check the BBB. If you can, check your local courthouse for any suits filed against the contractor (either in the business name or their personal name). Check their license status with the state. Dare I say it: Google is your friend; so is FB.

Contracting is one of the last bastions of free market capitalism. Buyer Beware!!!

Good luck in your project. :slight_smile:

G.

#20

you should have a performance clause in the construction contract that has specific completion date … with penalties spelled out by the day

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