Best way to cover/bury anchor lines securing a run in shed

[vxf111]

I have a 10x20 run in shed which I had anchored to the ground with a Horizon earth anchor kit. The lines aren’t very three dimensional but I’d really like to cover/bury them so they’re not visible or a tripping hazard. Ideally, to get grass to grow on top. What is the best way to do this?

http://s5.photobucket.com/user/vxf111/media/Fox%20Chapel%20Farm/FullSizeRender.jpg.html
http://s5.photobucket.com/user/vxf111/media/Fox%20Chapel%20Farm/FullSizeRender2.jpg.html
http://s5.photobucket.com/user/vxf111/media/Fox%20Chapel%20Farm/FullSizeRender3.jpg.html

I feel as though if I just put fill dirt on top, it’ll quickly settle/get worn away. Should I put some sort of stone down first? I happen to have a pile of stonedust leftover from doing my stall bases. Put that down first, tamp it somehow, then fill dirt on top, then topsoil and grass seed? Is there something better/easier?

Thoughts appreciated.

[gumtree]

I don’t think I would do it that way. Looks like an accident waiting to happen IMO.

Off the top of my head I would get 4 1" pipe 4 feet long, drill 2, 3/8 or 1/2 holes on the top end, a couple of inches from the top and one about 12 inches lower. Pound them into the ground at the four corners, about 2-3 feet deep and then use 3" lag bolts, (wood screws with a hex head on them) and screw the pipe to the corner posts.

This will keep it from being pushed around and or being “picked up” when subjected to high winds. The pipes are round and will be “flush” against the shed. A horse won’t be able to catch its foot and or get cut by it.

Pounding the pipe into the ground will be problematic with the shed in place. I would get/start the pipes in place by whacking them down a few inches. Push/slide the shed away, pound them to the desired depth. Slide/push it back into place and bolt.

If you want to move it to another place, unbolt, pull the pipes move and do again.

You could use rebar which will be easier to pound into the ground and then use strapping. But this won’t keep it from “uplift” depending on how it is strapped.

That’s one way of doing it. See what others others have to say or have done.

To make it “fixed” you can dig holes under the bottom plate (beam) with a post hole auger or hand in the four corners. Fill with cement, drill holes above take 4 foundation bolts or just use long carriage bolts push them through the holes into the cement before it sets up. Wait util it hardens then take a nut and washer and wrench it tight to the ground. Cut off the excess/exposed bolt flush to the nut. This way will require more work and a bit more expertise.

[vxf111]

It’s already been anchored as shown in the photographs. Per Horizon Structures, probably the biggest run-in shed company in the area. I’m not moving it or removing the lines. I didn’t ask how else it could have been anchored. That’s a different question. Not the one I asked.

I’d like to get some answers to my actual question which is how to cover the lines.

If you don’t want to answer that question, that is A-OK, but I don’t really need/want sundry advice on other topics. I know you’re the local/resident expert on “how to do everything better.” But I didn’t ask how else the shed could have been anchored or how you would do it. I asked how to cover the existing lines.

I would like suggestions responsive to the question “how to cover these lines” please. Just this once I’d like to buck the COTH trend and get actual answers to a simple question probably asking too much

[dsedler]

Is there any way to dig out just a little bit under where the lines are currently laying? Just thinking, if you could get them laying a little bit below ground level, then do your idea of covering with the stone, then dirt, then seed. I don’t know how much play there is in the lines, so don’t know if that will work. I would think that if you just mound stuff over them, you will have a small pile/hill that could get worn down as horse walk across it, thus possibly exposing the lines at a later date.

BTW, good reply above…

[vxf111]

I can dig them in a little, yes, and that’s a good idea. That I can easily do.

[fordtraktor]

If you are going to keep it, I would bury it under several inches of stone dust and put a HEAVY 4 by 6 mat on top of the whole thing. Make sure no horse is going to be able to stick a leg under there and break it because I am sure otherwise one of mine would find a way to do just that. The design makes me nervous.

Plus the stone dust makes really nice footing for run ins. I keep mine picked out and they are comfortable and mud-free all year.

[gumtree]

I’m in the same area. I familiar with Horizon Structures and I know this is how they go about it. But they are not “horse people”. A friend had one installed this way. They ended with a stalled horse and a sizable vet bill because they tried to make it “horse safe” by “jury rigging”. Like you are trying to do IMO, instead of doing it horse safe “right” to begin with.

I don’t like/want to come off as a braggart, know it all, etc. Horses and farms are what I do for a living. It’s not a sideline, hobby. Doing things “right” is what people pay me well to do. I am also paid well as a “farm consultant” from time to time. If you don’t want to take the time to do, IMO and experience the right way that’s your choice. But you don’t have to shoot the messenger. I have far better things to do with my lunch time. I don’t need to go on the internet to find out how to “do” something as simple as this. I wouldn’t buy a Horizon run-in to begin with. I can build a larger and of higher quality run-in for less money in 2 days by myself. One day with a helper.

If you just want to “jury rig” this go out and get a big load of dirt. If you’ve got a tractor with a bucket and a place to dig up some on your property all the better/easier. Shovel a big mound of dirt over each wire. I would cover it with at least 1 foot and “contour” out and away from it. Pack it down real good and tight. Other wise rain and horses walking on will wear it down. It may last for a while it may wash away exposing the wire in a few months and you will have to do it again. If not done right it will be a maintenance hassle.

I can pretty much guarantee doing this way will take more time than the way I suggested. The one I did for a friend has stood the test of time. It also “looks good”. If you care about that. Maybe someone has a better way which is fine with me.

Live and learn. That’s how I know the things I know. I have also learned a lot from my mistakes and others. Prefer to learn from “others”. Less time, money, labor and hassle.

[vxf111]

Do you want to give me an estimate to come out and “do it right” then?

I don’t want to put you on ignore because I often DO find your advice very helpful gumtree, but sometimes in your desire to be the world’s foremost expert you fail to answer the question or consider views outside you own.

FWIW the shed company (not Horizon), and the amish fenching guys, and the contractor who installed the anchors all thought this was an appropriate thing to do AND that the lines could be covered/buried.

And a place I boarded before had them done this way and well buried and they were never a problem. I got there years post burying, but they were done this same way and somehow didn’t get uncovered. So apprently it CAN be done. Somehow.

If you don’t know how, gumtee, that’s okay-- but it doesn’t make the whole rest of the world WRONG because you don’t know something or haven’t seen it before.

[vxf111]

duplicate

[TrotTrotPumpkn]

I think (after you bury them if possible) the stone dust would be a good start, and perhaps without the dirt. I’m just thinking dirt will keep more moisture right up to that wood it is attached to. I realize it’s pressure treated, but is it pressure treated for below grade applications? I have no idea, just thinking about how you can keep it from rotting as long as possible. Maybe angle it away to improve run-off away from the shed.

That is a scary design (as-is). If the place you boarded at buried them what did they use? Gravel? Can you ask them what they did?

[sascha]

[QUOTE=vxf111;8631738]
Do you want to give me an estimate to come out and “do it right” then?

I don’t want to put you on ignore because I often DO find your advice very helpful gumtree, but sometimes in your desire to be the world’s foremost expert you fail to answer the question or consider views outside you own.

FWIW the shed company (not Horizon), and the amish fenching guys, and the contractor who installed the anchors all thought this was an appropriate thing to do AND that the lines could be covered/buried.

And a place I boarded before had them done this way and well buried and they were never a problem. I got there years post burying, but they were done this same way and somehow didn’t get uncovered. So apprently it CAN be done. Somehow.

If you don’t know how, gumtee, that’s okay-- but it doesn’t make the whole rest of the world WRONG because you don’t know something or haven’t seen it before.[/QUOTE]

Well, the whole thing seems like a bad accident waiting to happen.

If you know a place that has done it and it was fine, then why don’t you ask them how they did it instead of asking here where you’re going to get a bunch of replies that say, wow, that doesn’t seem like a safe thing to do?

But, shooting th bearer of bad news is always a fun thing to do I guess. Certainly more fun that admitting to yourself that maybe this type of anchor isn’t the safest in a horse area, that’s for sure!

Snark over, it’s been a long day. Too bad I opened this thread! Lol

[ReSomething]

We have a large collection of field stone and use that to cover wires and block off objects. Not everybody is blessed, (or cursed) with a homegrown supply.

Bluey had talked about staking down a shelter with chain from a posthole IIRC, but I don’t recall how she kept the horses off of it. A tall pile of fines, tamped, might work well as long as it isn’t seriously stressed. Add a cut stall mat over the top of the guy wire, but it sure isn’t very portable any more.

I’m afraid that DH went with gumtree’s train of thought when he put in the Klene-pipe shedrow, tossed out their instructions for postholes and guy wires, and put in a poured foundation with rebar, threaded rod and plumbers tape (hanging strap) that secured the pipes at intervals. Nothing portable about it anymore.

ETA the Klene pipe people do NOT guy down a two hole run in to the best of my recollection, and theirs are a lot lighter. They recommended that our 36 foot model be guyed down as it didn’t have enough mass for the area presented to the wind to keep from being lifted and tumbled.

[Simkie]

That’s an odd way to secure a run in. How about covering those wires with a few bags of concrete before a load or two of stone dust? Do you need it to be portable?

[saje]

I’d try and dig them in a little first, then cover well with good soil and seed it.

Then I would put up a temporary barrier to make the horses go wide around them, just a single line of fence over each anchor. You could use a wood post and chicken wire fence, or a T-post (with a tennis ball topper) and mesh of some sort, or even strips of tape fencing. Staple whatever fence it is to the shed and attach to the wood or T-post in whatever way is easiest.

It won’t look great for a while, but it only needs to be there until the covering grows over and is stabilized, and at this time of year that shouldn’t take long.

[Bluey]

That OP’s snarky responses here were completely unwarranted.

Don’t like the answers, ignore them.
Jumping on those that answer what we don’t want to hear will only get very short answers or none.

Since someone had brought how we do it, I will give my answer, which I was not going to bother, as it will just annoy the OP further.
Oh, well, others may learn from this and that is what matters some times, so here.

While that cable tie may work to keep sheds down, someone needs to tell whoever is doing that it is a bad idea all around, for anyone that may be around those, horses and humans that may be mowing or walking over it.

You tie portable smaller structures down right by the corner, where you attach your tie right there, where nothing may hit those wires and whatever is attaching them down.

We never had one of our anchors torn off, the one shed a tornado tore loose, the shed was torn, the ties were still fine, we rebuilt and reattached the shed to them.

We dig a regular post hole, drop a big chain in there with something on the last link across it, like an anchor has, then fill the hole with concrete, about three sacks worth.
The end of the chain that sticks out is right by the corner of the shed and can be bolted or welded to it without sticking out there or causing a trip hazard.

We put one on each corner, two chains in the middle hole, if we are putting two sheds together, one for each shed’s corner.
Those chain ends sticking from the hole right by every corner of the shed then can be welded or bolted to the shed itself, are not sticking out there for anything to hit or trip over it.

Hope that helps anyone that is thinking of tying a shed safely down.

[ASB_Stars]

Horizon Structure is in my area, also, and I did look at their sheds and barns when I bought the three that I have here. I did not buy from them. I do think that their product is not dissimilar from their competitors.

However, this system that they have put in place is a bad one, not a good solution, and a major liability.

I understand that you are trying to do your very best to make a safe and beautiful home for your horses- and , that this is your first time around at this. I also know that you are sharp as a tack. Please do not take the suggestions you are getting as fault finding for you. They aren’t.

Many years ago, when I moved to my home, the prior owner had installed tensile fencing for their horses. I had never seen the stuff used on a horse farm, but I asked the installer- who is highly reputable- and he told me it was fine.

It wasn’t. It cuts horses like a cheese cutter. But, it was sold by someone reputable who represented it as being safe.

You’re in the same boat. The solution offered by Gumtree is excellent. But, it isn’t pretty, and it isn’t what HS sold you. However, I’d tear those things out of the ground in a heartbeat- because I see BIG RED FLAGS.

Good for you for seeing the possibility of trouble, and looking for help. Now, follow up with a solution.

[clanter]

eas![](est fastest way, get bags of concrete mix and lay on top of the cables, just leave the bags complete as time goes by the concrete hardens the bags wear away just leaving the concrete…which could be removed when ever needed

this wall was built of stacked concrete bags in 1988… still looks the same today

[IMG]http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b386/clanter/MVC-009S.jpg)

[Bluey]

[QUOTE=clanter;8632580]
eas![](est fastest way, get bags of concrete mix and lay on top of the cables, just leave the bags complete as time goes by the concrete hardens the bags wear away just leaving the concrete…which could be removed when ever needed

this wall was built of stacked concrete bags in 1988… still looks the same today

[IMG]http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b386/clanter/MVC-009S.jpg)[/QUOTE]

Standard concrete sacks are 80# and would work fine, but you may consider the newer 40# concrete sacks more handy and could work as well.

Concrete pavers could also work, but they can be slick if a horse steps on them and will crack.
A row of concrete sacks, the concrete will set in time into a hard bump, could be one way to keep anyone off those cables.

Horses and people may stumble over them, but it will be better than getting cut by the cable if they get their foot under it or a shoe caught on it.

[clanter]

depending on zoning and the wording of ordinances normally if the structure has a permanent foundation it falls into a category of a building and must meet specific codes, without a foundation and under a certain size it is a temporary structure…completely differing rules …and tax bases (also possibly insurance coverage is different)

[airhorse]

@Bluey;8632564

You tie portable smaller structures down right by the corner, where you attach your tie right there, where nothing may hit those wires and whatever is attaching them down.

That’s how I have always done it.

I would redo the anchors vs trying to fix what could be a dangerous situation.