What kind of camera and lens do you use for horse shows? Such as action shots over jumps, and then just plain candid photos…
I use a Nikon DSLR (of the $400-500 variety, so very much an entry-level DSLR). It’s a D5300, but the newest version is all suped up with wifi capability and may also order you pizza and have it delivered ringside, but it’s also running about $650 now because of these bells and whistles.
For portraits and candids, I use either a Nikon AF-S 35mm or 50mm (f/1.8) prime lens (no zoom). Because there’s no zoom, the camera is less bulky and the photographer really has to think about composition. Usually, I get better shots with these than with my kit lens (a shortish zoom). For horses (often taking photos from the rail), I use a 55-300mm zoom lens.
I love the camera in general. It does a great job at horse shows then turns around and takes stunning photos of my kids with beautifully shallow depth of field. I’m a total amateur when it comes to photography, but this camera makes me look good.
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My camera is, I think, an earlier version of the one the above poster has. At shows I tend to leave the telephoto zoom on for candids and action shots. This enables sneaky candids. It’s just a kit lens. I either use it in Program mode so I can adjust the ISO (and set the white balance to sunlight if the light is interesting) or, for action shots, shutter priority so I know the shutter speed is fast enough to catch action. Unless you’re trying for something like this.
I have a Nikon D7000. It’s a mid-upper consumer level body, nothing extravagant but not the absolute base model. I shoot with a kit lens (70-200mm?) and a fixed 1.8 lens for portraits and poorly lit situations (indoor ring, for example.) The 1.8 lens is really nice for portraits, conformation photos, etc. The only downside is no zoom. Finding a wide aperture lens that zooms means big $$$. An 80-200 2.8 lens would be REALLY nice, but they run ~$2500. The kit lens does just fine for things like jumping.
I shoot in Manual only. If/when you buy one, half the “battle” is learning how to use it. For example, Nat Geo photog could hand you their high end equipment, but if you don’t know how to use it you’ll just end up with snapshots 
I use a Nikon D5200. I have the two kit lenses that I bought with the camera from Adorama. I use the 18 - 55 mm lens for most portrait/candid type stuff but like a previous previous poster I also like to use my zoom lens to catch candids when the subject doesn’t know. I use my kit lens for that as well as all jumping shots which is a 70 to 300 mm VR. Here are some photos I took at Live Oak in Florida over the winter. Hopefully you can see them… they should be public.
https://www.facebook.com/equisuz/media_set?set=a.10205379364940298.1073741902.1134319061&type=3
I also bought a wide angle lens as well as a micro lens just because I like playing with my camera. I have a mono pod and a big tripod but I almost always just handhold the camera. I should use the monopod more. The tripod is just too bulky for horse shows I find.
[QUOTE=lmlacross;8177686]
I use a Nikon DSLR (of the $400-500 variety, so very much an entry-level DSLR). It’s a D5300, but the newest version is all suped up with wifi capability and may also order you pizza and have it delivered ringside, but it’s also running about $650 now because of these bells and whistles.
For portraits and candids, I use either a Nikon AF-S 35mm or 50mm (f/1.8) prime lens (no zoom). Because there’s no zoom, the camera is less bulky and the photographer really has to think about composition. Usually, I get better shots with these than with my kit lens (a shortish zoom). For horses (often taking photos from the rail), I use a 55-300mm zoom lens.
I love the camera in general. It does a great job at horse shows then turns around and takes stunning photos of my kids with beautifully shallow depth of field. I’m a total amateur when it comes to photography, but this camera makes me look good.[/QUOTE]
Butting in - I have the same two lenses, and I feel like the 55-300mm is so much slower than the 35mm. I adore my 35mm and find myself rarely ever using my 55-300, but was considering bringing it to the show this weekend.
I have a Canon 40D. I’ve had it for six years now and if I hand to a friend they can get close to professional grade pictures. On sports mode, it is super fast and usually will take 4-5 pictures in one click which is useful in getting those jumping pictures.
This was taken with my camera by an older woman who is definitely not tech or photo savvy (arena is a huge GP arena and she is standing at the rail).
https://instagram.com/p/2YptBnN_Fs/?taken-by=kendracourt
You also need to position yourself to capture the jump at the right angle with the sun behind you. Like the above posters, I have two lenses. A 35-128mm and my long distance 70-300m (used for horse shows or big arenas). Both lenses zoom so I can get close up pictures from 200ft away. I most recently bought an off brand wide angle/fish eye lens for real estate pictures (have not used it for horses).
My camera set up is easily $3500+. Definitely worth the investment as this Canon’s should last forever. My camera is designed for a semi-pro but is still easy to use. I don’t know half of it’s capabilities. Since it is a upgraded DSLR camera, it doesn’t have video camera capabilities. That’s something to consider if you would like to take videos with a camera too.
I just bought the Nikon D3300 as a package deal for $600, and it included two lenses (18-55 mm and 55-200 mm) and the camera bag. I’m a total amateur at photography but so far I’m in love with this camera. I just used it for the first time at a show and it took great photos of friends jumping far away on the grass Grand Prix field at Showpark.
[QUOTE=Equitational;8177981]
I have a Canon 40D. I’ve had it for six years now and if I hand to a friend they can get close to professional grade pictures. On sports mode, it is super fast and usually will take 4-5 pictures in one click which is useful in getting those jumping pictures.
This was taken with my camera by an older woman who is definitely not tech or photo savvy (arena is a huge GP arena and she is standing at the rail).
https://instagram.com/p/2YptBnN_Fs/?taken-by=kendracourt
You also need to position yourself to capture the jump at the right angle with the sun behind you. Like the above posters, I have two lenses. A 35-128mm and my long distance 70-300m (used for horse shows or big arenas). Both lenses zoom so I can get close up pictures from 200ft away. I most recently bought an off brand wide angle/fish eye lens for real estate pictures (have not used it for horses).
My camera set up is easily $3500+. Definitely worth the investment as this Canon’s should last forever. My camera is designed for a semi-pro but is still easy to use. I don’t know half of it’s capabilities. Since it is a upgraded DSLR camera, it doesn’t have video camera capabilities. That’s something to consider if you would like to take videos with a camera too.[/QUOTE]
I have the Canon XTR (I think?) Rebel … very similar experience… it was in the $700 range and is eight years old… I have NOT taken good care of it… and it still acts brand new. I am in love with it. I am a horrible, horrible photographer but have managed to take quite a few brilliant pictures with it… here is one of my favorites (w/o touch-ups): click
I am sure in the past 8 years technology as far as cameras has increased tenfold… but this camera is very intuitive, and takes fantastic pictures - I think it takes 5 pix per second so good shutter speed. But my camera has been used hard and put up wet and I am enamored with it. It has seen everything from my graduation, my sister’s HS graduations, weddings, horse shows, rides on the beach, numerous trail rides, etc. Great point and shoot camera. My friends and family joke that you just have to hold the button and it will capture the best image for you.
I don’t have a good zoom, admittedly… I would like one but know next to nothing about cameras so have never invested in one.
[QUOTE=skipollo;8177767]
I shoot in Manual only. If/when you buy one, half the “battle” is learning how to use it. For example, Nat Geo photog could hand you their high end equipment, but if you don’t know how to use it you’ll just end up with snapshots :)[/QUOTE]
As someone who grew up pre-digital, this is funny to me. There wasn’t an option, you HAD to learn how to shoot, for real, or you weren’t going to end up with anything, or be stuck with a point-and-shoot camera. When I finally broke down and got a digital SLR, I was amazed at how easy everything was, because I had options to adjust everything down to changing the ISO between shots!
I’ve got a Nikon D80. Not a pro camera, but I’m also very much of the mindset that it’s not the camera, it’s the eye behind it. Let to my own devices, I’d probably just use my 50mm prime for everything I shoot, but I also have the el cheapo 18-55mm which is nice for landscapes (we travel a lot), and a 70-300mm, which is slow and not as sharp as the other two, but is great for stuff like horse shows.
Nikon vs Canon is very much just a matter of personal feel. Go somewhere you can get your hands on several different models, and see what works best for you. I just liked how the Nikon felt in my hands.
I am a photographer type person, and I love my entry level DSLR, which is a Nikon D3200. For horses, you do want/need a zoom lens. The kit 55-200 lens is adequate for shooting action horse shots; professionals will have better lenses that will be sharper and more reliable especially in low light.
That said, if you are not a photography-loving person who is at home with a large camera and camera bag, do consider the compact super-zoom cameras. You need at least the 10x zoom, and I prefer an optical viewfinder over just a screen on the back because I find that easier to work with in bright light and to hold steady. I took years of excellent/useful images with my old Canon S3IS and those cameras are only better now. The advantage of this camera is that it is small and easy to have with you always, and it probably can get a shot. And these cameras can take very good images, especially if you’re not prepared to buy or tote around expensive zoom lenses.
What you need to test most in a horse-friendly camera is the speed of shutter responsiveness. A good way to do this in the store is to have someone with you moving around. (Walmart, staples, all kinds of stores will have cameras that you can usually test-shoot.) Practice shooting them and see if the image you get is what you intended, or if the moment is late. With a slow-shooting camera, you can learn to anticipate the right moment, but it is a pain and a learning curve. This is one of the primary reasons I stepped up to the DSLR.
Also, when buying a new camera, you probably need to budget for a new external hard drive and a nice big backup hard drive. These new cameras eat disk space like crazy with their amazing big images. Fortunately, terrabyte HD are now super cheap.
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[QUOTE=poltroon;8178065]
That said, if you are not a photography-loving person who is at home with a large camera and camera bag, do consider the compact super-zoom cameras.[/QUOTE]
If you put yourself in this category, you might also want to check out the mirrorless cameras. They also tend to be lighter and smaller than the current DSLR cameras.
[QUOTE=Where’sMyWhite;8178097]
If you put yourself in this category, you might also want to check out the mirrorless cameras. They also tend to be lighter and smaller than the current DSLR cameras.[/QUOTE]
Ditto. Chiming in as a professional photographer - the mirrorless options are really worth looking into, photo buff or not. You can get really quality shots, and a good set up with a lot of versatility for less money than a DSLR rig. Easy to use on full auto but also give you full manual control if you want to go that route. Fuji actually makes some great mirrorless cameras. You can still swap lenses on most mirrorless set ups.
I shoot with a Canon 5dMKII and 70-200 IS if I’m shooting horses (I don’t shoot horse shows professionally any more). But, if I was just getting into it, I’d go the mirrorless route. My favorite portrait lens is the 85 1.8.
I wrote a help guide to shooting horses/jumping a few years back. I can dig that up and post it if there’s interest, I think some folks found it helpful.
I have the Nikon D2100. I use my 55 - 300 zoom lens a lot when shooting my g/f at shows. A lot of the “slowness” that had been mentioned above can be compensated for with shutter speed and other settings. Once I figured the camera out I’ve never had a blurry shot. Even on cross country the images are so vivid and well focused I can zoom in & crop with basic photo software to get a bigger view and not have to edit or fix anything else. I do want a longer lens to get jumps over 100 meters out, but up to 100 I still get great pictures. Yes, the longer zoom lens are heavier but so completely worth the little bit of effort to carry them. Get a wide padded neck strap and help support the camera with one hand when you walk and it’s no problem. Let the strap hang behind the camera when shooting and it’s no big deal. The last show I was shooting multiple horses for friends at the same show in the same class and I didn’t get tired of holding the camera even in the stadium jumping.
No matter which camera you choose get a well written instruction manual besides the manufacturer owner’s manual. There’s so much I can do with my 2100 that I’ve found no real need to get a “better model”.
As mentioned above, you can get an extra external HD. You do use a lot of space. But also get large memory cards (I use 15 gig cards).
When buying you definitely want to budget in for filers for sun glare and such, zoom lenses and other expensive options. But before going overboard on that stuff make sure you get the basics FIRST. Get a good, padded waterproof carry bag, extra storage card with it’s own case, an extra battery, a 12 volt charger (when was the last time you saw outlets at a regular horse show?), lense cleaner and a cloth or two (horse + dirt + movement = dust on lenses)
[QUOTE=two sticks;8179200]
Ditto. Chiming in as a professional photographer - the mirrorless options are really worth looking into, photo buff or not. You can get really quality shots, and a good set up with a lot of versatility for less money than a DSLR rig. Easy to use on full auto but also give you full manual control if you want to go that route. Fuji actually makes some great mirrorless cameras. You can still swap lenses on most mirrorless set ups.
I shoot with a Canon 5dMKII and 70-200 IS if I’m shooting horses (I don’t shoot horse shows professionally any more). But, if I was just getting into it, I’d go the mirrorless route. My favorite portrait lens is the 85 1.8.
I wrote a help guide to shooting horses/jumping a few years back. I can dig that up and post it if there’s interest, I think some folks found it helpful.[/QUOTE]
I would defenetly be interested! Thanks everybody for the tips!
Does any one have opinions about buying used? Good idea? Bad idea? Ways to not get burned?
[QUOTE=arlosmine;8179447]
Does any one have opinions about buying used? Good idea? Bad idea? Ways to not get burned?[/QUOTE]
Used is a great idea IF you go through one of the reputable sources. I would not buy used through something like ebay, craigslist, or even amazon (unless it’s amazon through a different seller). Some offer used or refurbished. IMO both are good options.
Some reputable used sources:
B&H: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/browse/Used-Department/ci/2870/N/4294247188
Adorama: http://www.adorama.com/c/Used
Sammy’s Camera: http://www.samys.com/c/Collectables/2/107.html
OP - I’ll find the guide and post it
One of the great things about the new DSLR’s is they give you a variety of modes that are in between fully auto and manual. On your dial, you should have the options of “TV” and “AV” - these are shutter(time) priority, and aperture priority. These are great modes to use, because you can choose to set the shutter speed or Aperture, and the camera will adjust the other control to give you the correct exposure. I would use Shutter Priority, and set the shutter speed to 1/600 (you can probably go as low as 1/400 if necessary - I wouldn’t go much slower than that for jumping). Take a few photos and see what the camera is giving you for Aperture. This will be displayed in the viewfinder and in the readout on the top right and also you can hit “info” to see it displayed on the back of the camera. If the aperture is less than about f/8 then you will need to raise your ISO. ISO will be up on the right hand side, there should be a button that says ISO that you hold down and spin your dial. The ideal ISO is 160 as it has the greatest dynamic range. So, in ideal situations you want to be around 160 ISO. However, to get the Aperture and shutter speed that you want, you will likely have to raise your ISO (unless it is really bright and sunny). I usually end up around 500 or 600 ISO.
A quick break down of what you should know on your camera:
Modes: Full Auto - Program § will do everything for you
AV - Aperture priority - you will set your preferred Aperture and your camera will adjust the shutter speed as necessary. You can still adjust your ISO manually.
TV - Shutter (time) Priority - you choose your shutter speed and the camera will set the Aperture for you. You can still adjust your ISO manually.
Manual (M) - You will need to set everything on your own, and know how to balance your exposure (shutter speed vs. aperture).
So what are each of these things?
ISO - ISO is the “film sensitivity” - in the film days, this was your film speed (100, 400, etc). ISO goes from 100 (lower on some cameras) to upwards of 6400 on the newer cameras. The “ideal” ISO is 160 because it has the greatest dynamic range. As you go higher, the film speed is higher letting more light in. Increasing your ISO will let you shoot at a higher shutter speed/aperture and still get a correct exposure. The downside to increasing your ISO is you will start to see noise in your images. Depending on your camera (some are better in low light than others) you will start to see visible noise around 1000 ISO (probably lower in lower end cameras).
Shutter Speed - the speed of the shutter. 1/60 is considered the speed to stop human motion. For horses, especially the higher speed stuff like jumping, I try to be at 1/600. You also want to shoot at 1/2 x the focal length of your lens to prevent lens blur. If you are shooting with a 200mm lens, you want to shoot no slower than 1/400 unless you are using a tripod or monopod. You can do cool things with a slower shutter speed and “panning” the camera - following the motion with the camera - it’s tricky and takes a lot of practice - here’s one of mine:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f…type=3&theater
Aperture- Aperture refers to the diameter of the opening of the lens. A larger aperture (smaller number, bigger hole) creates a bigger opening and lets in more light. f/2.8 will let in more light allowing you to shoot with a faster shutter speed for the correct exposure than f/22. Aperture is also referred to as the “F Stop.” Aperture also controls depth of field. Depth of field is the size of the plane of focus. A small depth of field means only a small area is in focus. This is why if you are shooting at f/4 or f/5.6 you may have the front standard in focus while the horse, middle of fence, and back standard are out of focus. A larger Aperture like 2.8, 4, or 5.6 is going to have a very small depth of field, while a smaller aperture like f/13, f/18, or f/22 is going to have a much greater depth of field. F/11 or f/13 should be enough to have the plane of focus cover the jump from end to end.
This image has a small depth of field - the subjects are in focus (horse and persons face) but the focus quickly drops off, the horses hindquarters and the background are soft. This was probably shot at f/4.
This image has a large depth of field. The horse, jump standards, people on the ground, and even to an extent some of the plants in the background are sharp. This was probably shot around f/16.
Auto Focus Modes:
One Shot - will focus on the object you lock the focus on. If you focus on the jump, the focus will remain on the jump when a moving object (horse) enters the image.
Al Servo - designed to focus and track a moving object. Will focus and attempt to track focus on your moving horse.
AI focus - will attempt to switch off between the two depending on the situation it deems appropriate. I never use this as I find it always chooses the wrong thing.
Hope that helps. I wrote it for something else so it’s not really geared towards this but hopefully you can get something out of it. Feel free to ask me if you have any questions.
[QUOTE=Horseman15;8179241]
No matter which camera you choose get a well written instruction manual besides the manufacturer owner’s manual. There’s so much I can do with my 2100 that I’ve found no real need to get a “better model”.[/QUOTE]
There is a series called something like From Snapshots to Great Shots and they may have one focused on the camera you end up getting. I have found that useful to use along with the camera’s Owner’s Guide. I find I am constantly referring to mine (regardless of how long I’ve had the camera).
If you end up Nikon, there is an app you can download on your phone (Android or iOS) that lets you download various manuals on your smartphone. Don’t know if Canon has that or not (as I don’t shoot Canon).
Before you buy camera memory cards, check the owner’s manual for the camera you have/are getting and see what cards are supported and their capacity. Don’t buy the memory cards without doing this first
Oh, and while the cameras give you the ability to delete pictures off the memory cards, most experienced people will tell you not to do that. Download the photos and then format the memory card in the camera.
