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Cold Weather Tractor Tips -

First winter (Ohio) at home with the horses and going very well. However…about to get cold (-4 actual temp) and stay cold for a spell. Moving manure to compost (using front end loader) is biggest vulnerability. Anything happens to tractor and I’m up a tree. And not supposed to be lifting more than 25 lbs. so there’s that.

Can I get some tips and advice to make sure the tractor starts?

Thought of buying a block heater and move the tractor inside (not heated) but at least out of the wind.

We move our tractor into the garage over the winter. Our garage is heated to just above freezing.

How far is your compost from where you are getting the manure? Can you move the manure with a wheel barrow or such if the tractor does decide to not work?
When we have lots of snow I actually clean paddocks using a plastic sled.

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Maybe 200-300 hundred feet? That would be a nice little workout. Don’t have a wheelbarrow or sled though. Love the creativity and you’ve got me thinking…

I also store my tractor inside year round and knock on wood, haven’t had issues with it starting, and we’ve had a few mornings when it’s been 1 or 2 degrees outside. I finally read my owners manual and learned about “preheating” the engine by turning the key backwards for 3 or 4 seconds. In cold temps, if I try to start it without preheating it sometimes gives me trouble, preheat it and it starts up every time.

Yes, and I’ve been using the glow plug (hold key in) when temps are under 30.

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Another option is making a winter manure pile that is closer to your barn that you move in the spring (with the tractor) to the compost area.

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Think about the tractor’s battery. If it is more than three years old, it is likely heading downhill (my opinion). Have it tested or perhaps just replace it proactively with a new battery with the greatest CCA rating you can find to fit your tractor.

When not being used, hook up your tractor battery to a battery maintainer; Battery Tender is a well known brand. That way, when you need to start the tractor, the battery will be fully charged.

And also think about fuel. During the winter in your climate you should be using a diesel fuel winter additive. Cold temperatures can result in diesel fuel becoming more viscous, or even turning to a gel.

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You can take your battery/s in for testing at an auto shop. They can tell you if there is a bad cell or working well. I have never heard of pushing the key in, to warm up the glow plugs. What kind of tractor do you have? Is it new? The older diesel tractors here all need the key turned left, I count to 15, then turn key fully right to start the motor.

Anytime you can keep tractor sheltered, garaged, in the barn, is better than leaving it exposed to the wind outside.

If you do plug in the block heater, I only leave it heating 20 to 30 minutes.Heaters are quite effective, do not need to be left on all night or for several hours. Shorter warming time also reduces chances of fire. Locally, we have a couple barn fires every winter from “warming up the tractor” issues, like being plugged in all night, leaving chargers on for hours, hot light bulbs under the hood. Long times with heater plugged in will burn your oil, reducing its effectiveness, needs changing much sooner. I can put out hay, turn out horses, tractor should be warm, ready to go by then. Even in very cold temps.

Unless tractor has been difficult to start recently, you have probably nothing to worry about. If you do go looking for a sled, the black, squarish ones in sporting goods stores are very tough, hold a couple bales, slippery on snow or dirt, mud. Heavy plastic, a bit more expensive than kids sleds, but last for years.

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easier to just buy a battery hydrometer, it costs less than $10. These are used to test the state of charge of a lead/acid battery

Hydrometers are used to test the state of charge of a battery cell. This is performed by measuring the density of the electrolyte, which is accomplished by measuring the specific gravity of the electrolyte.

Forgot to add that in Ohio, her diesel fuel will come with additives. Should not need to add any extra products. Up here in the “cold states” the fuels get winter additives starting in the fall. Here in Michigan, that could be Sept, because it is often quite cold up north that early. Ohio should have additives.in their fuel at this time of year. Unless she has old fuel, not using much fuel, her tractor should have “winter diesel” already in the tank by this time oF year.

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A few of you have mentioned keeping the tractor out of the wind. Wind chill does not affect vehicles:

The only effect wind chill has on inanimate objects, such as car radiators and water pipes, is to shorten the amount of time for the object to cool. The inanimate object will not cool below the actual air temperature.

[

Wind Chill Questions - National Weather Service

www.weather.gov › safety › cold-faqs
](https://www.weather.gov/safety/cold-faqs)

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SO appreciate all the replies so far:
@LCDR the battery is two years old and I’ll plan to get a “maintainer” -great idea.
@goodhors - it’s a JD 3320 - 10 yrs old? and good to know not to heat over night and safer. I can go out and plug in when I feed and clean stalls. The fuel is fresh and good to know it already has the additives. I topped off the tank last night.
@clanter Good to know on the hydrometer and will plan to get one too.
@Mango20 Good know on the wind - would rather keep it under the lean outside. It sits on the east side of the building so most of the time mostly blocked from prevailing winds.

I’ve always kept the tractors outside. Here is my winterizing for diesels.

Even with winter diesel at the pumps I’ve still had the fuel gel at sub zero temps. I always run antigellant during the winter. At the same time, I have spare fuel filters and diesel 911 to add to the tank so when the fuel does turn into chicken fat, I can still get it started (change to a new filter and add the diesel 911 followed by regular antigellant).

Batteries: the same as what has been said. Strong batteries are a serious necessity. So long as the glow plugs work and the fuel flows I’ve gotten the tractors to start in the subzeros with no additional aid.

Block heater or oil pan heater are great if you can park where they can be plugged in.

if a battery is discharged it can freeze… if frozen do not put a charger on it as it can explode

We’re in MN with an older (50+ years) gas tractor. It lives under a lean-to for the rain/snow so is certainly exposed to the wind, but as others have said windchill doesn’t impact the starting ability.

It’s used sporadically (about once a week) so we pull the batteries and store them in our workshop which is warmer (insulated and stays around freezing) and makes it much easier for charging than when they’re on the tractor. Also have a block heater for it.

Knock on wood we haven’t had any issues with it starting even when it’s -25F air temp by employing this strategy, but I know diesels can be a bit of a different animal.

Clanter, what does it mean that a battery would discharge?

From what I’m reading, installing a block heater is complicated? A block heater is recommended, right?

Hence why you alway maintain the batteries and generally replace every 3 years (even if you don’t use them, the plates will degrade). A Battery Tender is your friend.

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Wind chill might not be the issue of unprotected equipment but providing win protection does keep rain and snow from getting blown into places where rain and snow can be an issue.

Yes to this. I’ve had to remind our safety guy at work of this a few times when he does his annual freak out about the safety shower piping.

Please, please, please - do everything you can to NOT use Diesel 911. It is not good, REPEAT, not good for the system. If you’re absolutely up against a wall, then fine, but really try hard not to use it. Your everyday additive should suffice, but there will be subzero days where even that might gel, so get a…

torpedo heater! That has saved my fuel-gelled-behind a couple times. Do you know where your fuel filters are? That’s likely where you’re going to have the “issue” with gelling, so if you know where your fuel lines and filter are, you can put the torpedo heater on them for an hour or so before you attempt start.

Batteries. Yes to the Battery Tender.

You’ll be fine. If it struggles or you have an issue, you can look into a block heater later. They aren’t that bad to install, in my experience.