Controlled loose leash walking

I am currently fostering a two year old Yellow Lab. There is no history available other than he ended up at a pet/wildlife shelter. It was an urgent request to foster him.

He is very smart, well behaved in the house, potty trained and obedient. However leash walking is very challenging. We only walk on my property, to the barn, around a paddock. The problem is that his nose works overtime. Sniff, sniff,pull. I hold strong until he gives and then move forward again, nose on the ground sniff, sniff,pull. I restrain, he gives, we move forward rinse and repeat.

We have been working on this for two weeks and no improvement. All the information I can find is to keep his attention on you and reward then move forward but this isn’t working either as he wants to sniff the ground.

I am not inexperienced and have not had this problem with any of my dogs. Any helpful suggestions will be appreciated.

If you don’t want him to sniff at all, use a prong collar and correct him in an upwards motion when he stops to sniff, tell him to heel (or whatever your chosen command is), and continue walking.

I allow my GSD to sniff when I tell him “go sniff” and otherwise he’s to heel and focus on me and walking forwards. IMO I don’t think it’s fair to let a dog sniff only when you want them to or only as long as you want them to, then expect them to carry on as if they knew they were supposed to heel. That’s why the default for mine is heel and when we stop and I tell him go sniff, that’s his free time.

I think of it like hand grazing. Mine will walk through a lush field with no problem, and only when I stop and say “have some grass” do they try to snack.

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IMO - Do NOT use a prong collar on a labrador. There are few dogs that I would agree that, after other options are exhausted, a prong collar may be needed. They are not a first step.

(I have a LOT of experience with strong labradors and collies here. And dont under-estimate how strong an athletic BC can be - says my shoulder after this morning’s very very stimulating walk with our rescue BC. He’s learning fast BUT COWS, SHEEP, COWS, SHEEP, OTHER DOGS, NON-HORSES (horses that are not the same colour as the horses at our farm). All were where we found them for the first time today. They are usually in other paddocks/sections)

I have used PAtricia McConnell’s methods as well as Turgid Ruggas’ methods. I really recommend the latter for issues when walking as I have never found a dog that doesnt respond when using these consistently. Our then 3-year old black lab was definitely NOT trained to walk on a lead - it took 4 weeks to consistently have him walking with me using Turgid’s methods as I do allow him to move out and back into my side so that we can both enjoy the walk. A lot slower now as he is 12 and quite arthritic.

I have used these with all of our rehomed and rescued dogs. And the ones that we got as puppies :). And in my Domestic Obedience training classes where I volunteer at our local dog club.

From what you have briefly described, your foster has not had sufficient socialisation or stimulation. He is now enjoying the chance. And being a labrador, he is enjoying it! An option would be to have him on a long-line (lunge line) and let him sniff and call him to you for praise and treats/play while you work on the training.

ALWAYS forgive yourself if you feel that you are failing. You are not.
Please have a look at those two science based trainers

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Welcome to owning a sporting breed

Two weeks is nothing. Everything is new and exciting for him and many sporting breeds will choose to hunt over food every time.

I would take 2 walks a day - one is for him. To explore and enjoy the sniffs. Probably the first walk of the day.

The next walk is training. You can’t untrain the hunting instinct, but you can try to balance your expectations against their instincts.

Prong collars aren’t bad per se. But they aren’t a solution either. A strong dog will pull through a prong collar without a second thought. You can use them but you also need to put the training time in.

Labs are smart and biddable. It is possible to have a well behaved sporting breed, but your expectations might not be reasonable at the moment.

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I use a command with our beagle. He gets 10-15 minutes to sniff, then the command “All Done” and we walk at a good clip. He gets a small variance but is expected to keep his head up and moving.

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I used a prong collar on my 80 pound yellow lab. It was not my first choice. Flat collar, halti choke chain were all nopes. Prong collar with rubber covers he was great.
Flat and choke cillar he would pull until he threw up. Halti collar he panicked badly.
Prong collar he was good. He saw it knew it was time to go somewhere fun- Lowes, park, TSC. He would get excited when he saw it.
He tested it maybe twice when we first tried it. After that it was great.
I have used a modified prong on my current lab maybe 3 times. She isn’t as much of a puller so I am on the fence on it for her.
In general I find prong collars can be way more kind than a choke chain. I think choke chains are more likely to damage the throat tban a prong collar. Flat or martingale collars can also put a lot of pressure on the throat

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And, now that I have some time, I would outline my commands/training programme. I may be teaching you how to suck eggs - sorry about that - but below with the clarification is how I have trained all of our dogs since (and during) Bob’s life. And why we had to train this way.

Bob was a pound rescue (labxGreyhound) and was found as a stray and desperately emaciated. My other trainer was a very reactive little BC (told to PTS at 5 months by professional trainers - she turns 14 years old in 2 months so, obviously, I didnt do that and went to the trainers above for assistance.)
I call these two dogs “my trainers” as I was fortunate that all my dogs prior to that came out “pre-trained” :smiley: . Patricia McConnell, Turid Ruggas and my sister (a special needs teacher) helped develop these methods.

Bob obtained - at 12 years and after a lot of training and learning how to train - Canine Good Citizen at Gold level. It is an amazing achievement for such a dog - actually, for any dog. We bawled our eyes out when he achieved the last level.(NZ does CGC in 4 stages - with increasing difficulty as you go up the levels.)

Bob was 18 kilos when we got him at at 18 months - think skeleton with black skin stretched over it. At 3, he topped 45kgs and the vet said he should have been >30kg when we got him. This X is a popular hunting dog here - as both breeds are originally hunting dogs and have stamina. He, we suspect, got lost in the bush. But this really impacted on his “intelligence” or “learning ability”.

My sister recommended breaking each “thing” down into the smallest possible components.

Although we did have two other “normal” dogs at the time, he learned from the humans - you should have seen him trying to catch a basket ball with his front legs cause that’s how we did. He managed it - and, yes, praise praise and be happy with him.

So - walking on a loose leash has a lot of steps - unknown to me at the time. You can do a number of these in sequence with dogs that have good learning skills - and most labs do. At all times, reward.

  1. Name recognition - we started by standing in front of him and saying his name and rewarding him with a treat. (He was food driven due to his early life.) Then progressing to being to his side and behind him. He also - over a great deal of time - learned that he was included in “all dogs”

  2. Training a “recall” - but not a formal one if you know what I mean. Basically to come when I called his name (at first) and then with the word “Come” - consistency is extra important with these types of dogs. Moving into more and more distraction laden environments. (Yes, he learned to do a recall past a rotiserrie chicken. he was a good dog and loved working with humans that showed him any affection.)

  3. Working out exactly what type of loose leash walking you want - by your side? slightly in front? out on a long line? able to “stop and sniff” or “exercise walk”? Moving between these? what is the dog’s natural pace? These are all different and I do use a separate command for each.

Which one I start with really depends on what the dog that I am training. With Bob, I started with “With me” - his shoulder is on my leg and no more than 50cm from my side. This was to provide comfort and support for a dog that had been lost. With our recently re-homed BC, I taught him “go wayward” - ie working out in front of me but to come back when called. (I now have to work with him that “good boy” doesnt mean trip me up to get a treat! My bad.)

All of our dogs learn “With me”, “in front”, “Go wayward”, “Walk Walk” (for exercise), “Sniffy Walk”, and, most important of all, “No pull”.

  1. Be HAPPY in your body language and voice.
  2. Know your dog’s natural pace - and if you need to, add “slow”.
  3. How did I train this? PLEASE follow Turid Ruggas’ method - it works well - and I have used that for training all of the above. Essentially, when they stop and look away from you, give them a few seconds, call their name and the second they look at you praise, say your achieve word (such as good) and move off. Not necessarily in the direction that you were originally progressing but being joyful in your body language. Or, as I say in my classes, act like a blithering idiot :smiley:.

This does work - and, having the multiple walk commands, gives you a finer definition of what your dog can do when. it also allows you to praise more.

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In our dog club classes, puppy, household manners, tricks, basic obedience/agility, we give homework to start a few times a day in a room with your dog and every time the dog looks at you or comes to you, praise, calmly with a exuberant dog, animated with a more quiet dog and use treats if your dog responds to them well.
That has been called the choose to lead program, where the dog learns to go on lead before it even has a lead on.
Once you have your dog’s attention most of the time, start expanding your territory and you will notice your dog should stick around where you are and keep an eye on you and come to you as soon as it feels your attention toward it, even before you call it.

As with horses, you don’t put a halter on an unhandled horse and expect it to follow you nicely.
You teach it to give a bit with little tugs and when it moves with changes of direction until it understands is a guidance.
Similar with a lead on a dog, teach with little tugs and short sessions in a small space first before you go for a long walk.

As for prong collars, again, we have used those after teaching first what we want, then add them for finer guidance on dogs that know to respond already and are generally less sensitive by choice, one can help getting their attention just by wearing them.
If you wonder how prong collars work, you can try on your bare arm, have someone guide you with one and get a feel for how they work.

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To clarify, I am not advocating just using a prong collar to manhandle the dog around. However, I find with a dog that you are trying to redirect with a flat collar and it’s ignoring you, having something with a little more bite is useful. Both of my dogs go incredibly well in a prong collar and just like putting a chain over a horse’s nose, they know when it’s there and they don’t test it.

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Also - this is part the issue. In my opinion, this is taking your dog hunting. It’s not the place for leash walking - but certainly is not the place to TEACH leash walking.

Once you have a dog that is trained to walk on a road or sidewalk on a leash, then you may be able to transfer that skill to a highly stimulating environment like a grassy field or paddock. Remember - this is a dog that was bred for a hundred generations to hunt. You can’t turn that off.

If you have no other place to leash walk him, then I agree that training him off leash to recall may be better. Starting with a long check cord and possibly consider an e-collar backup (if you’re skilled in using one.)

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I am not anti-prong collar but 100% agree that they are not ever the first step.

Heeling should never be the default. Loose leash walking comfortably is the default. Heeling for a whole walk would not be fair to the dog. (Clearly I am talking about actual heeling, with the dog paying attention to you and with you.)

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This was my first thought too, if he is two years old and not been trained to walk on a leash, it will take time. You say you have no back history on him, but the fact that he is so good in the house is a great thing. Possibly, whoever had him perhaps had mobility issues, and just opened the back door to let him in the yard? And as @Bluey said, we couldn’t expect an unhandled horse to know how to lead right off the bat. Foals don’t know how to lead either, they have to be trained.
You have got some great advice from experienced people, so I just want to thank you for stepping up to give this poor sweet dog a home. Whatever brought him to an emergency rehoming/rescue situation can’t have been good, and his whole world has been turned upside down over night. If he has just had a small yard his whole life, your farm must be thrilling to him - wide open .fields! horses! smells! squirrels! more smells! He is a very lucky lad to have landed with you.
I also want to say congratulations, on getting this lovely dog who sounds like he wants to be the companion you have said you wanted.
Relationships take time, but he is a lab, and very trainable, and you are giving him a safe and loving home… I have high hopes for the two of you.
Just be patient! Good luck to both of you.

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a 2 year old lab is still an adolescent -meaning high energy and low impulse control. To that degree, they can’t control this yet. Moderate your expectations.

In general, the best approach is to give the dog free sniff time first before asking them to do any sort of training that requires self restraint. Similar to lunging a horse who has been stuck inside so they can get their zoomies out of their system.

You can “mark” those parts ofthe walk by using different leashes at first. Attach a long lead for free sniff time for 10 - 15 minutes, then switch to your 6’ leash for more structured work.

Since you know the dog is scent motivated, you can easily incorporate scent games into that structured time. Or, do basic “heel” training with a treat in your hand. Keep that exercise to 3-5 seconds at a time. Again, at that age they generally just don’t have the attention span to hope for anything beyond that. Yet.

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Everyone that gets a new to them dog of any age should try to find an evening a week for some weeks and go to some local obedience classes or whatever they call them where you are.
Go there to establish that rapport you need, to help him bond with you, in a very structured setting ideal for that.

If you can, it will put you and your dog leagues ahead in your communication with each other.

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Turn around and actually walk the other direction. If he gets borderline flipped over, so be it. Depending on how sensitive he is, I would accompany the about-face with a warning sound.

Rinse, repeat.

He will learn that paying attention to you is beneficial to him, in that he can sniff but he’s got to keep some slack on the line and have a mind of where you’re at.

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Just to clarify a few things. Our first walk in the morning is for potty break. In my opinion it is a time for exercise and to be allowed to be a dog. I want him to be able to sniff and explore without me water skiing.

I am not allowed by the rescue to use any type of prong collar or electric device or strong “corrections”.

After potty time we go to my indoor arena where he is allowed to have zoomies which last about 10 seconds. My recall is “here” and he comes immediately. After that I have to walk around the arena with him or he will just sit at my feet. In the house he follows me from room to room or sits at my feet where ever I am.

To respond to one of the posters I live in the boonies, no concrete sidewalks, just gravel and grass. Lots of good smells such as squirrels, rabbits and a resident Possum. I am afraid that a lungeline would allow him too much momentum sending me through the air. Have had that happen with one of my Bouvs.

At this time we are not able to go to any formal training facility but have had my trainer help with just going through an open door which was quite a challenge, We have made progress there. I do use both a martingale collar and a body harness. He gets very exited when I come with the equipment but sits until he is all leashed up. When we return he sits nicely to have his feet cleaned and body rubbed down with a damp cloth to get rid of the pollen which make him itchy.

He is such a good boy in so many ways but I really dread our walks now. We have four walks a day. One of these walk sessions include going into the dog run. I sit and read to give him time to himself but he just sits beside me not interested in anything else. I am afraid to leave him in the run by himself. He cleared a four foot stall door in seconds and I am not sure a 6 foot fence will contain him.

Initially I had planned to apply to adopt him but have changed my mind as this is very trying for me. I think he needs a strong, younger, kind owner who is willing to do lots of work with him. I think he would be great it agility as he has already learned to zig zag through cones and jump over small xs off leash in the arena.

I will look into the training recommended up thread.

Thank you all for your input.

Oh, didn’t realize that was you, sorry!
Yes, too much dog for you, again, which is part of finding your best suitable one.
Seems that it may take more frogs to kiss, sorry.

Remember, labs have a well earned reputation for being the bowling ball of the dog word.
They can have poor body space awareness, bumping into things is how they dance and we humans are not always safe living as bowling pins to happy, exuberant full contact labs.
Part of that is also, until older and very well trained, learn to control their ocassional birdbrain moments when on leash.

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Sounds like he needs more brain work to make his nose/brain tired.

Does he get kibble before his morning potty break?

You can always make him earn his kibble walking correctly at your side.

Food puzzles, freezing it in ice, rolling food/treats up in a towel, tossing kibble in the ground for him to sniff out are some ideas to tide him out.

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I do not have as much experience as the posters above me. I will add that if he is food driven, then a really high reward treat like cheese, hotdogs, etc in your hand for your structured walks is a must. (I love cat food kibble, because its high in fat and stinky and it makes your hand smell like yummy treats).

Practice in your indoor, after zoomies. Get him to focus on you (like the name call, yes, treat explained above), then has he starts to focus soley on you, (and laying at your feet is not focused on you). Then work on walking on a leash, focused on you, rewarded like there is no tomorrow and gradually lessen the food and increase verbal praise. You can also do these in the house.

Once he is good in the indoor, apply the same things outside. New challenges, sights and smells, etc.

There is no over night fix for a puller, YOU and listening to you need to become more interesting than his nose.

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I’d give him two types of walks. Training walks, and fun walks. On the fun walks, use a long line (a longe line will do if you have one, or a 25’ rope with clips). Let him zig zag around and sniff stuff. Long line walks with my puller/sniffer make it much more enjoyable for both of us.

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