I’ve been occasionally watching Will Atherton’s YT channel and picked up some great tips with my over eager walkies BC. I haven’t seen anything sketchy yet, but I haven’t googled him either.
I think this video helped with a breakthrough with her.
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Fully agree with “two walks” – one with a regular leash, one with a long line. Regular leash – lots of turns. Maybe use “about turns” where you step into his space a little – keep him guessing. “Sniffy walk” is on the long line. If you need a bit more control, use a front clip harness.
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I have to agree; a 2 year old male lab is probably…60-70lbs? Could be more or less but this is a big dog, and at an age where exuberance is at its peak.
I know you’re a big dog person, but why not consider something much smaller? A trained lab is one thing; an untrained 2 year old is kind of a wrecking ball on a leash.
LOL I’ve never heard that expression but that cracked me up.
I went to physical therapy for a while and there was an older couple who sometimes overlapped with me, which I thought was odd (both in PT at the same time). At one point when they left before me the PT told me that both of them had been hurt by their young lab. I don’t recall the injuries but I think one was pulled off their feet and hurt one part of the body, and the other got yanked and hurt their back or shoulder. The PT said that it’s actually a very common situation for them to treat “dog walking injuries” in older people.
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To explain how a 2 year old Lab came into my care. My trainer found a 5 year old labradoodle looking for a home. He was with a very good reliable rescue. I applied to adopt him but was too late. The rescue responded that they urgently needed a foster for this dog as he would not do well in a shelter. To stay connected with this rescue I offered to foster thinking he would not stay with me too long.
I was looking for a less active older dog.
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While I’m not any type of expert on training issues, I will say reading this that you sound upset at the dog. He’s a high energy breed, he’s too big for you, and you have no idea of what he’s been through. I’m not sure why you would take him on as a foster?
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Answer in the post right above yours.
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yeah not really lol
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Maybe I missed this, but have you had your trainer out to help? Or does the rescue have a trainer that they work with?
You’ve gotten lots of good tips and recommendations. Consistency and clear boundaries really are key. Start somewhere with fewer distractions like in the house or the indoor and then proof it by going outside.
Like others said, two weeks isn’t very long. But if you’re genuinely afraid of getting hurt then you need to be honest with the rescue.
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This.
Totally this.
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I am not at all concerned about getting hurt, he is not that strong, He is perfect in the house. stays by my side in the arena unless I release him.
He is very clever and sweet it is just while walking on grass his nose works over time and it is a bit annoying. Trainer’s advice was: he pulls, you restrict, he gives, you release, rinse and repeat.
Today I took him for a long walk down the road. Not so much to sniff so we walked in a straight line and he didn’t pull as long as I walked quickly. He sits without reaction when a car comes. However on my road this is very seldom.
I was just looking for advice regarding the overtime sniffing.
We are making progress. I will start doing more roadwork. Up until now I was reluctant to go on the road as I was concerned about equipment failure but since he didn’t pull it isn’t a problem.
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Friends that are elite dog trainers have Goldens.
Their dogs are awesomely trained, have been to the National Obedience finals by invitation.
Still, one of those dogs, for her whole life, was perfect every time in everything, except in shows where the rings were in horse arenas.
Why?
That dog lost its so well trained mind when she sniffed horse apples and would dive for them before realizing it was being recalled, oops!
The instinct that made her lose it over horse apples was just too strong and they battled it all her life.
Some dogs have their quirks, that was one.
Your trainer is who should advise you, knowing your dog, what is going on there and if that quirk is one you can overcome enough to feel safe, or not.
Otherwise, that sounds like a wonderful dog that should find a good home, if maybe not quite right for you?
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Bluey I have already decided not to adopt this dog, not because he is a challenge but because he is so young and I am so old.
Today I forwarded a detailed account along with pictures to the rescue so they can proceed with the adoption process. I will be upset when he leaves but have dealt with worse situations and survived.
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Once I found a basenji out on a highway.
That dog made himself my shadow, was a wonderful dog, instant mutual love.
Of course I put the word out with animal control and local vet clinics.
Some days later the distraught owner called, it was his dog.
I was going to town shortly and took him to them.
Dog was happy to see the family and other two basenjis.
Some times you win, some times you don’t.
Keep telling yourself heartbreak is part of life, this too shall pass.
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A harness with the leash hooked to the front ring really disables pulling. A front ring, not a top/back ring that just turns them into a sled dog when the already want to pull. Might be worth a try to keep your sanity until he finds his permanent home.
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I think “a bit annoying” seems very small in balance against all the good things this dog is. From everything you say he sounds like such a good boy - and after only two weeks with you!
Like many others here, I have been following your posts, all your difficulties and frustrations and sadness with your previous dog, and trying to adopt, and hoped that maybe this is the dog you have been looking for. Hoping for the best for him and you.
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I think you have your answer, and before I read through the thread, I was going to suggest this.
Right now, in your paddock you’re basically taking a kid for a walk in a candy store, versus taking a kid on a walk to the post office. Even a nice kid is going to lose his mind and not pay attention to mom in the middle of sugar-ville.
There’s no way you’re the most interesting thing for the dog in a middle of a horse field, especially a dog with zero exposure to livestock who is highly stimulated by scent. Take him to as many boring places to walk as possible, so you’re the most interesting thing there. Carry treats and periodically reward him when he focuses on you, not polishing the ground with his snoot.
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Dogs don’t experience the world like we do.
We live and our brains work by what we see around us and what is happening that we see, so clearly.
Dogs don’t see too good, can tell movement when and by how it moves, not what shape it has, but oh boy, the smells!
Dogs get up in the morning and read the newspaper and what all has been happening by the smells they are getting, all the time, in their house, in their yard, walking anywhere, the world of smell is their book to read, sight a far second to most of them.
Especially sporting and working dogs have been bred by their excellent noses.
At the time our dog club was conducting tracking classes, we had a Rottie, a dobie and a toy poodle.
Would you believe our best tracking dog was our short sighted 10" poodle?
We used to say she would high-center on a cowchip.
From the first track we laid, she took off practically running and hit the end before the other two had figured what they were doing.
Once we had a track down a cow trail and by the time we were running it some cattle were walking down it to water.
Tiny poodle was so intent tracking it bumped against the hind legs of the last cattle in the trail!
She could ;ground track and air track, parallel to the track, nose in the air and made you trust her, she was always right.
She was also a star in obedience as she could distinguish scent articles from far away and not have to check them out as many other dogs do.
When we realize how dogs live by their noses, we can understand why such a dog as the OP’s rescue lab acts like he does and that he needs someone that will teach him other ways and probably keeps the teaching and repeating it for the rest of it’s life, which is not how the OP can manage any more.
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Please don’t be upset that he wasn’t an ideal match and will be leaving you for another home. You are doing a wonderful thing by taking him in, giving him a soft landing and most importantly setting him up for future success with a new family. And it frees up space where you can help other dogs until the right one comes along for you. I know fostering isn’t for everyone, but people with hearts as big as yours have so much love to offer. Any dog that comes to stay with you for any length of time will be so lucky to have landed in such a good foster home.
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Thank you for fostering and being self aware that he isn’t the perfect fit for you. I promise you will find one or rather, the dog will find you. They always do!
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This is what I was taught for leash pullers. I am by zero means a dog trainer of any kind, but a trainer I enlisted many years ago taught me this. And typing the lead line around your waist, so they’re pulling against a real block instead of your arm. The theory was that, when they pull and you’re just holding the leash, they “get away” for a couple of feet before you can stop them, just because of the length of your arm and less strength there. If they’re attached to your waist, your torso is much stronger than your arm, and is not on a moveable joint, so when they pull they get an immediate stop and thus learn that pulling doesn’t get them anything.
It has worked incredibly well for me over the past five years with a variety of breeds. But maybe I just have extra weak arms 
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