HELP me with electric/temporary fencing/SmartFence

[Meadow36]

I need to divide a rectangular shaped paddock; I was thinking of using something like this: http://www.valleyvet.com/ct_detail.html?pgguid=64ee7a46-b9b3-40bb-b12c-07b2af6a3ee8&gas=fencing

I need a straight length of temporary fencing that can be moved/set up easily. It’s roughly 250’ across - so if this makes an 80x80 corral I’m thinking it should be enough (80x4=320).

Anyone have any experience with this? Advice? I have never used electric fencing before and frankly I’m a little afraid of it. Horses are thoroughbreds also, so a little worried about an accident.

[AmarachAcres]

I’ve never used that. We use step in fiber glass posts and thick Gallagher style electric rope.

You want at least 3 grounding rods near the charger. You can google for diagrams of how to do that.

Make sure the metals in the fence and the rods match.

You can either zig zag or connect your fence. IE: If it’s three strands you can make one long length that goes back and forth or you can make three dead ends.

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Above is the zigzag. with one end connected to the charger and the other end a dead end.

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Above are three dead ends but each rope is connected to the top wire by metal strands. THe top wire should be connected to the charger.

Your best bet is to google a electric fence set ups. There are some great sites out there that have wonderful diagrams and explanations.

[Meadow36]

Thanks for the info, I’ll look that up. Also spoke to the rep at Valley Vet and they said I can’t go wrong with the SmartFence. I still want to check out other options before committing though. I’m trying to be economical, it’s only one stretch of fence.

[TimelyImpulse]

[QUOTE=Meadow36;7778669]
Thanks for the info, I’ll look that up. Also spoke to the rep at Valley Vet and they said I can’t go wrong with the SmartFence. I still want to check out other options before committing though. I’m trying to be economical, it’s only one stretch of fence.[/QUOTE]

I used electrobraid- another brand of braided rope-- to separate an area, and had a TB spook through it. It’s very strong, and instead of snapping, it cut right through his neck. I don’t use any of the braid or rope type electric fence materials now for that reason. I’ve found the 1" tape to be the most versatile.

I’d use the fiberglass step in posts at 8’ intervals and buy an add on reel for the tape. If you need to move it, you can just drop it out of the posts and reel it in.

You can buy step in ones that are coated in copper that conduct pretty well, and are more portable than trying to drive in the 10 footer galvanized ones.

[Meadow36]

Timely you just freaked me out. That’s what I’m afraid of.

Can you post links to the stuff you are talking about? I’m assuming it’s electrified?

[moving_to_dc]

I think you can build a better functioning and cheaper fence by purchasing the items separately.

The SmartFence is $214 for JUST the poly wire fencing and 10 rather flimsy looking step-in posts.

I do not know where you live, but I would say you need to head down to your local TSC or farm supply store. Price out 10 white, black, or gray step-in posts, and a 660’ reel of tape (I prefer 1 1/2"). 660’ should be plenty to run 2 strands along your 250’, and 2 strands should be enough for cross fencing. I think you will find it will be much cheaper and better quality than the Smart Fence.

IMO, SmartFence is designed for endurance or trail riders that want a temporary corral at their campsite. Part of it’s price is the “portability” of it and the ease of setting it up and taking it down. I don’t think those are factors necessary in a cross-fencing situation. Instead, I want my cross fences to be strong and tight, to look good and deter horses.

This is my cross fencing with 1 1/2" tape and step-in posts. Ends are either wood posts with tape end insulators, or H-braces made of T-posts. https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t31.0-8/977682_4963236875112_1039438114_o.jpg

https://scontent-b-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/1908324_10202030744866572_6449348193471281254_n.jpg?oh=9dcda955ab24d4cf81baac869cde21bc&oe=54C69647

(not the best pics, not sure where the good pictures are of the freshly completed project from 2 yrs ago.)

[Texarkana]

I have never used the SmartFence kits, but they seem pricey.

I have had great success with insulated fiberglass step-in posts and a combination of electric tape/electric wire. I use it for internal perimeter fencing and also to divide fields/paddocks. I suppose you would end up with a similar result to the Gallagher kit, but I like to add the tape for visibility. I usually run 1 or 2 strands of tape and an additional 1 or 2 strands of wire.

I watched one of my TB mares lose her mind the other night and run full speed into the temporary electric fence dividing her paddock. She just bounced right off of it, no injuries at all. I’m not sure what bug got up her you-know-what to make her challenge the fence, but it definitely held up fine.

[Meadow36]

Thank you everyone. Please feel free to talk like I am clueless, because I pretty much am in this situation! I like the tape, think I will go with that.

Now - if i use the posts that Texarkana suggested, then I don’t need any of those insulator clips, right? So, would I do the zig zag technique with the tape that AA suggested? I have a few strands of the tape laying around, might be a start - but they are cut up and too short. Is there any type of connector to make them work? And what size charger do I need?

Thank you! DC - I wish I had that much grass!

[Meadow36]

More questiosn: how do I get the tape tight? How do I connect it to the end posts (which are already in the ground and are wood rounds)?

[Texarkana]

Correct, no insulators needed for that style step-in post. They will hold up to 2" tape or wire. I also like them because their ends are capped with a top insulator, reducing the chance that someone might impale themselves. They also make plastic-coated metal step-in posts that do not need insulators, either.

The only downside to step-in posts is if your pasture is exceptionally rocky, you may have problems getting them in the ground.

I can’t answer the charger question-- I honestly have no clue, and it will depend on how much fenceline you are talking about. I have one of these which I bought for nearly 50% off at my local feed store. It works fine for my little 5 acre farm!

You can use tape splicers to connect tape. You just need to make sure to get the correct size. This is going to sound pretty unprofessional and sloppy, but tape is easy to work with-- even worst case scenario, you can tie ends together.

I bought a bag of plastic tensioners wide enough to accommodate tape at my local feed store. I can’t seem to find a link for them online. Depending on the size and shape of the fence you’re creating, you may just be able to pull the tape tight.

I am clueless about the zigzag pattern, though! I just have a vertical strand of wire (same type of metal) between my fence strands to energize them. That’s probably not how a professional would do it. :lol:

Also, invest in an electric fence tester if you don’t already have one-- even the cheap $10-15 light up style is sufficient. It takes the guesswork out of installing the fence and knowing if it is working!

[Meadow36]

Great info thanks!

I’m starting to get it but still nervous.

I located this guide: https://www.farmtek.com/wcsstore/EngineeringServices/allbizunits/techdocs/safe_fence_install_guide.pdf

SO, I need a ground system? What’s involved with that? Dumb question - is the wire that attaches the ground system hot?

[Texarkana]

No, the ground isn’t hot. If my understanding is correct, the only time any voltage passes through the ground is when something is touching the fence and completing the circuit!

Good video on grounding: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PdoMX8EacBw

In most areas of the US with a decent amount of top soil, you can get away with a single short ground rod. You may need more if you live somewhere rocky or somewhere that experiences an extended deep freeze.

[Meadow36]

It’s north Florida - a little sandy but plenty of rain. No freezes.

I will be up bright and early tomorrow to get an exact measurement and then off to TSC.

[gumtree]

[QUOTE=TimelyImpulse;7778741]
I used electrobraid- another brand of braided rope-- to separate an area, and had a TB spook through it. It’s very strong, and instead of snapping, it cut right through his neck. I don’t use any of the braid or rope type electric fence materials now for that reason. I’ve found the 1" tape to be the most versatile.

I’d use the fiberglass step in posts at 8’ intervals and buy an add on reel for the tape. If you need to move it, you can just drop it out of the posts and reel it in.

You can buy step in ones that are coated in copper that conduct pretty well, and are more portable than trying to drive in the 10 footer galvanized ones.[/QUOTE]

I only use pollyrope or something of the like. To avoid this from happening cut the rope every X amount of feet depending on the run and use “splice connectors” so if a horse happens to run through it the pollyrope will pull through at the splice with no worries. Just don’t over tighten the connectors.

I don’t like the tape. If you live in a windy area the wind plays havoc and I have found it to be a total PITA on long runs.

[Mallard]

I have used step-in posts and 1/2" tape to fence off portions of my fields for many years.
No problems at all.
If it snows or is very frosty the tape will ‘hold’ it and sag a bit, but it comes off easily and then we’re back in business.

As someone else mentioned…make sure it is well-grounded or it won’t work!

Hopefully your TSC peeps will set you up with everything you need.

[Irish_Love]

don’t laugh, but OP did you mentioned it had to be electric? Or just temporary? If so i’m in the same boat on not wanting electric and went a different route… standard t-posts with vinyl covers, then attached no-climb wire.

Also saw these adapters and really loved the idea to help with visibility. Again I’m spoiled that mine stay off the fences and do not need electric, but still…

Trying to come up with a way to combine with above with the post covers

[NoDQhere]

If you don’t want to mess with ground rods, Horse Guard makes a bi-polar tape that eliminates the need for ground rods. The Horse Guard products are very good and long lasting. Very safe for the horses as well. You will need to put “tensioners” at each end of your temporary fence in order to tighten it. www.horseguardfence.com

[AmarachAcres]

I tried tape and the wind was just so destructive. It caught every breeze.

If you are worried about rope hurting your horse add splices in to give it weak points.

I prefer having a grounding system, but I have heard good things about Horse Guard. Just not my cup of tea.

There are a lot of ways to connect pieces, most stores that have fence supplies can show you what works for what you need to connect.

It sure is a learning process!

[Meadow36]

[QUOTE=Irish_Love;7783561]
don’t laugh, but OP did you mentioned it had to be electric? Or just temporary? If so i’m in the same boat on not wanting electric and went a different route… standard t-posts with vinyl covers, then attached no-climb wire.

Also saw these adapters and really loved the idea to help with visibility. Again I’m spoiled that mine stay off the fences and do not need electric, but still…

Trying to come up with a way to combine with above with the post covers :-)[/QUOTE]

No doesn’t need to be electric but it’s the most economical. We bought the 1" tape with all the supplies and we will likely put it in later this week. I love the look of the vinyl rail, but I’m sure it’s expensive. We priced out the no climb wire and that alone without T-posts and vinyl was pretty pricey.

This farm is a rental so we don’t want to sink too much money or do anything permanent; on the other end we want something safe and secure. It isn’t too long of a stretch 260’.

Thanks for all the info!

[moving_to_dc]

As for tightening - I just hand tighten mine until it “twangs” when I brush against it. Sometimes I can pull hard on it and it will glide thru the end tensioner to tighten it. Sometimes I have to “disassemble” the tensioner somewhat to get it tight. Hard to describe without pictures, but I take the almost-triangular-shaped-bent-wire-thing-a-majig off of the U-shaped flat metal thing-a-majig, feed the tape thru to the right length, and then PULLLLLLL like heck to get it hooked back on the U-shaped thingy.

I’ve found that as long as the tape is TIGHT, it does not sag, twist, or sway in the wind. The HorseGaurd doesn’t wiggle in the wind at all, but the cheaper off-the-shelf brands do vibrate a bit, but never get tangled or break. All my tape fencelines, which are about 250’ long on step-in posts, withstood Hurricane Sandy in 2012.