Ideas for a horse that bolts while lunging?

What does your farrier (previous owner) have to say.

Lungeing is definitely a useful tool and there is an art to doing it mindfully and getting the horse to receive some benefit in education and fitness.

However, not all horses NEED to be lunged, especially at his age.

While my horse can lunge, I never lunge her. She is a big WB horse with big feet
(maybe yours, too) and the torque on a circle for any length of time can cause lameness with those big feet. (Ask your farrier, he will agree, I’m sure).

When a horse tries that, at all costs you cannot let it get in front of you as if you are ski-joring - it’s like stopping a train. Run like heck to the side to keep the triangle and pull his head in hard.

Once learned, they can pull this trick out of their bag of tricks at any time.

A stallion ring (or Chiffney) on the bridle is fairly powerful and I have seen that used successfully on a similar horse.

I have learned that lunging is mindless circles. Horses are easily bored when you lunge them. I understand that people lunge horses to get them to release excess energy and to warm them up, but there is a much better way. Your horse learned how strong he is and is using his trick to get out of a situation he doesn’t want to be in.

This may be a difficult task, but if you really want to fix this, which should be fixed because your horse has learned how strong he is, and you try recognize what your horse is offering and what you are portraying to him, I think that you can fix the issue.

Again, you are going to have to pay attention to what your horse is telling you. Read his body language and be on top of it. Think about this: you are watching for what happens before what happens happens. It’s difficult to follow, but that’s what you should watch for.

You do not have a round pen but do you have a small fenced in area? Not very small, but small is good, or any fenced area would work.

When your horse gets straight in the body or bent even the slightest bit away from you, he can out pull you. It seems that you understand this already from what I have read in your post. So, you want to keep him bent towards you. Now, I know that’s hard but stay with me here.

To get the bend and to get him willing to bend around and stay bent around, work with him on moving/yielding his haunches away from you. I am not sure if you are familiar with this technique, but when you apply pressure on the lead rope at a 45 degree angle away from his head, look at his hip, and walk towards his hip aggressively, ideally, he would bend his neck and step his inside hind leg in front of the other hing leg to move his hindquarters away from you. Teach him that when you ask, he should move it right away. Teach him it is not acceptable to have you there, only when you are not applying pressure is it okay for him to not move away. It is a simple maneuver, you may be able to find some videos online on establishing this.

Then teach him to yield the forequarters. When you are standing in front of him, hold the lead rope, and direct him with the lead in your hand whichever way you want him to do. As if you were guiding him, move your arm out straight. Then you are looking for him to step over in his front legs towards the direction you want him to go in. Take one step and build on it with the yielding of both the hindquarters and forequarters.

Once you can move both the hindquarters and forequarters, it’s time to move to the circle on which he will move. Move the forequarters so that he is perpendicular to you and then immediately move the hindquarters. Try it again and again letting him walk forward one step on the circle, then two, then three, while keeping the bend in his body towards you. When you see he is about to lose the bend, make him yield the hindquarters. You can make him move it away pretty fast, he should not pull on you, he should keep his head bent towards you.

This habit will take a while to fix. Make sure you read him, and catch him before he gets to the point where he can pull on you. Make the wrong thing difficult and the right thing easy. Once you can walk, move to trot, then canter. These will be more difficult. Take your time. Use pressure at 45 degree angle (his body and the lead rope create the angle) as an emergency brake. I would use a rope halter with four nose knots and a 15 foot lead rope. The circle he moves on should have a radius of about half of your lead rope length.

You may find videos of this online. Once you get to a point where he doesn’t pull, don’t just send him in countless circles, change it up a bit. Change direction often, see how slow he can go, how fast he can go, see if he yields away sideways, keep him thinking. Don’t let him think about being naughty, and catch it before it gets to that point.

Good luck :slight_smile: I hope this helps you a little.

Do you use a lunge whip?

My mare used to do this and it was the result of someone chasing her around a round pen with a whip!

Step on in fixing it was to reschool her in how to respond to a lunge whip.

[QUOTE=Going_Royal;8996740]
He works perfectly under a saddle.[/QUOTE

Horse is fine obviously so why bother with teaching him to lunge. Horse not having the lunging skill isn’t gonna, make or break him…at this point and time in his life. Theres plenty of horses that never learned lunging not the end of the world.

Edited to add…findeight said it all BEST POST HERE! !

the torque on a circle for any length of time can cause lameness with those big feet. (Ask your farrier, he will agree, I’m sure).

Big feet are more likely to deal BETTER with lunging than average or small feet.

Why on earth would big feet be a problem?

Never mind - I’m not going into a COTH argument here.

It doesn’t have to be an argument. If you have an explanation, I’d like to hear it. I’ve never, ever heard anyone, not even a farrier, say bigger feet don’t hold up to lunging well. I’d like to know the alleged reason(s) why.

[QUOTE=JB;8996943]

Do you go back to a walk when you increase the line length?

How much do you increase the line length?

Do you walk with the horse at that longer line length, so that the circle is bigger? Do you walk a bigger circle with the horse at the shorter line length?

.[/COLOR][/QUOTE]

I usually don’t get to increase the line length the second he thinks he may have to do a circle he takes off I usually don’t even get a full circle at the walk to start before he’s gone. as far as line length if I keep him right next to me he will go in a very small circle but obviously being as big as he is he can’t really trot on that circle so once he get’s on a circle the slightest bit bigger he takes off.

Although I can walk and trot him while leading him on a loose line. I hope this answers some of your questions if you have any other ideas based off of these I would love to hear them.

Okay so this is a response to a bunch of questions as well as opinions. I’ve given up trying to edit my original post since it won’t load.

A. In my opinion lunging is important especially in a horse who easily gains weight. Often times I don’t always have a lot of time to ride so lunging would be a great way to get him in shape. I also feel in the case of him ever getting injured this is a wonderful tool to have. No this is not the end of the world for me if he doesn’t end up lunging, I only posted this to see if anyone had any other idea or tools.

B. This is not my instructors fault. I have boarded with her since I bought this horse and I have worked with plenty of other instructors and clinicians. She and I did not spend a lot of time together working with this horse on lunging most of my lessons involved riding. She was and still is a very busy person meaning she didn’t spend a lot of time with him. I take full responsibility for him not understanding this it is not her fault at all.

C. For everyone who seems to think I can’t handle my horse or teach him this. I have worked very hard with this horse to be where we are today and while I would love to be working with someone who had more knowledge then me about lunging that is not an option right now. Honestly except for “experimenting” more and getting dragged across the ground I don’t know what more a “Pro” would do. I have lunged horses and know how to do so as well as having taught some horse to lunge. I do not know everything and I am not perfect and everyone has something that challenges them about a horse, this just so happens to be mine. Other then this issue he is pretty much the perfect horse for me. Personally I prefer to learn as well as teach my horse something and even if I had a “pro” I would probably be insisting upon being the one doing the work and having them coach me.

D.I do not use a lunge whip with him since he doesn’t like whips in general.

E. He knows ground work he side passes on a lead, does very basic pivoting, backs, and yields his haunches. I can also drop my lead line and leave him as long as I tell him woah. While free lunging in the large arena I had access to he knows hand cues as well as voice cues to change directions and gait. He will also jump if you stand next to a jump and point your finger over the jump. So he isn’t a bad horse on the ground which is what confuses me about this whole bolting thing since its not like him to do something like this.

F. Also he is built more like a warmblood then a draft. He has big feet and when he gains weight in the winter he looks drafty but even then not so much (for those of you who have suggested he’s uncomfortable performing small circles) This horse has also completed many handy hunter courses with very tight turns better then his smaller counter parts. Believe me he can make a circle if he wants to. I don’t believe he has any back issues but the next time my vet comes out it will definitely be something I mention to her.

G. Also the majority of the things I tried were over the course of the 3 years. I would try one thing for awhile and when he would continually bolt I would stop. Eventually when I had time I would try again with a different idea that would maybe help him understand. I genuinely feel he doesn’t get it and he’s confused and rather then deal with it he thinks running away is easier. This probably stems from his former life.

Thank you to everyone who suggested things I definitely have a few new things to try as soon as the weather clears up (and I fix or replace the broken surcingle).

I usually don’t get to increase the line length the second he thinks he may have to do a circle he takes off I usually don’t even get a full circle at the walk to start before he’s gone. as far as line length if I keep him right next to me he will go in a very small circle but obviously being as big as he is he can’t really trot on that circle so once he get’s on a circle the slightest bit bigger he takes off.

Although I can walk and trot him while leading him on a loose line. I hope this answers some of your questions if you have any other ideas based off of these I would love to hear them.

That’s why I suggested increasing the length of line while staying in “leading” mode, since that’s what I had to do with my mare. She didn’t understand circles, so to do that at a greater distance (which still wasn’t far at all) it just wigged her out and she reverted to the only thing she knew - fast and straight.

I agree with JB. Start out at the walk on a shorter line. Work on walk, halt, walk, turn to you, change direction, etc. Be sure when he changes direction on the line he pivots on his back end and moves his shoulders away from you with an inside bend to his body. That’s step one in later being able to avoid the position he gets in where he can bolt away. Gradually increase the length of rope. When introducing trot, start over with a smaller circle. Ask for a change often. Do not just ask him to go round and round. But it starts with step one which is the send off onto the circle.

When my horse feels like acting up, it takes 3 laps for him to get bored and look for ways to entertain himself. So, I’ve got to do a transition or change of direction no later than lap 2.5. If it helps to keep him engaged, set out some ground poles. Go over a pole. Circle around a pole. Stop halfway over and back up. Back up between poles, go forward in between poles. Add in some trot. To do that, you have to be comfortable letting line out and taking it back up quickly while keeping your attention on the horse.

You may also want to think about putting your go forward energy at the girth area, rather than being behind and driving the hindquarters. So, you create a smaller triangle between leading at the head and your focus at the girth and shoulder area. Some dressage trainers teach that while h/j trainers teach making the rear of the triangle be driving the hindquarters. When the horse turns and bolts, you have lost the shoulder and head, and it sounds like you don’t need much help with the go forward.

I apologize for resurrecting this thread if the OP has solved the problem.

But now I have a runaway longeing problem of my own!

My 16-years young Kentucky Mountain Horse has run off full tilt the last THREE CONSECUTIVE times I tried to longe him. Fortunately I was only dragged the first time (the barn manager said "Look like you got drug out there! - we’re in Texas). and that was just because I was so totally surprised, my brain could not tell my hands to let go fast enough… I’ve had him since he was three and never had this problem - now 3 in a row.

We are in a very large arena when it happens, and he sails around with his tail flagged, bucks, farts, wheels and goes in the opposite direction, just as long as he pleases. Max has been 15 minutes of full-out gallop or huge canter.

Today there were two other riders in the arena, and fortunately they were on fearless cow ponies who faced him down causing him to veer sharply and avoid them. But I was ashamed of my horsemanship.

When he’s done, he canters up to me looking proud. Then I am able to longe him normally, almost; he makes a few more halfhearted tries to leave the circle.

This has got me baffled. I’ve read this whole thread, and not seen anyone who had a sudden eruption of longe-bolting at this age and level of training - he’s the best trail horse I could ever imagine. I’m afraid to get on him! These 3 boltaways have been our last 3 times together.

My thoughts aren’t specific to longeing. When my mature, level headed horse turned into a rearing, snorting, dancing Arabian Nightmare, he was sore from an injury I hadn’t yet identified. Gave him time off to heal, and he’s back to his normal self. Any chance it’s not the longeing that’s the problem, but it brought out the “mom, this hurts” call for help? My level headed horses only get silly when they’re uncomfortable, in my experience.

When one of my horses repeatedly does something completely out of character, the first thing I am going to rule out is: Does anything HURT?

Did anything happen that you can think of?
Any change in diet or environment?
Any limp at all, or small head bob?
Tender to palpatation on his back?

Sounds like my Princess Butterball, the sterotypical sensitive redhead in my avatar. She’s 24, last couple of time I “longed” her it was a sh*tshow much like you describe if not worse. Last spring she’d had a year off due to bruised feet and my lack of time (my mother dying, new job, blah blah blah, winter etc), and this spring when we were both sound I took her out to the ring for a bit of exercise, excited at the thought that I’d actually get my butt back into the saddle again this year for at least some puttering around.

Now this is a horse I’ve raised and shown lightly over the years and while there has always been occasional foolishness on the line, I was not prepared for the rip-tearing performance that occurred, she almost had the line ripped out of my hands before I could step away from her, total bronc show. Fortunately I managed to get the line behind my butt before she got away and eventually settled down, but I was seriously concerned she was going to kick my head off. So totally out of character.

The next time she I was more prepared and managed to keep her a little more contained but I’m sure it was still an interesting show for the neighbor across the road who I’m sure watches everything going on with binoculars (elderly lonely horsewoman, I sort of don’t blame her).

Soon after that I messed up my back, so tangling with the Princess wasn’t on the cards and she’s been living the life of a semi-feral horse with my SO catering to her every whim. He turns her out, brings her in when she demands (OMG there’s a fly!!! Save me!!!) and seems pretty sound and spry judging from his reports (he’s a life long STB man and can spot lameness from 500ft away somedays) of her antics lately and my observances when I go out. Hopefully we’ll try again next spring…so hoping for no repeats. I’ll definitely be doing some seriously in hand before I get out the longe line and then a vet if things don’t improve.

@thoroughbred21 If you’ve ruled out pain…

Do you have access to a lunging cavesson? My favourite rig for lunging, as it can give you more control or be completely innocuous, depending on your needs.

Can you move to a much smaller confined space to lunge, at least to start with? The large arena with other riders is probably a bad idea right now, although don’t be ashamed or we will all have to be…everyone has had ‘situations’ at some point :wink:

Also if he were my horse I’d be turning him out first so that the bucking, wheeling and farting is not happening on my watch. Then all business for a light lunge, really light.

If I found myself still unable to physically correct the bolt though (swiftly and HARD!) I might consider getting a good rider up while lunging to correct him for me at the slightest hint of shenans.

It’s a tough one and in the end might require a pro trainer.

Best of luck!