Let's talk about flies

[stb]

I would love to know what everyone has found most effective for fly control. This will be my fourth summer on my own farm. For the past 3 years we have used fly predators, but since we got chickens (2 years ago) I don’t feel like the fly predators have been as effective. My chickens free range during the day, so I’m suspicious that the chickens may be eating the predators.

There are no other horses or cows near enough to cause me problems on my property. This year I am considering dropping the predators and going to Simplifly. From what I have read, it is safe to use around the chickens, although if anyone knows anything different I would certainly like to hear it. I have to admit I am a bit weirded out by thinking about my chickens eating Simplifly and then producing eggs that I am going to eat - but realistically I should probably be more worried about the poop they are eating.

It’s time to make my decision. I need to start my anti-fly program by the end of this month. What are you doing for fly control this year?

[Simkie]

Last year I got very, very strict on not spraying fly spray on the horses while they were in the stalls, and saw A HUGE improvement in the effectiveness of my predators. I was apparently killing them with the fly spray tainted bedding. Any chance you’re doing the same thing? I was really impressed with just how effective they were once I got my shit together :lol:

[4LeafCloverFarm]

Loved Fly Predators when the dairy next door to our farm was in operation. Interesting about the fly spray @Simkie . Never thought about that. Mine got sprayed outside as they ate their breakfast/dinner along the fence line, so maybe I wasn’t killing any of mine, since we were so far away from where we placed them.

One thought @stb is to encourage bats (you can put up bat hotels at various locations on trees and sides of structures) and to encourage fly catchers and other insect loving bird species by adding appropriate housing and nesting for them as well.

[mlb722]

I have two horses at home and use simplfly and find it helps a lot, atleast until my neighbor spread manure on his hay fields! I also have chickens.

[Mukluk]

I feel blessed that right now there are no flies.

[stb]

Simkie, I generally fly spray the horses when they are out in their dry lot, so don’t think I am tainting the bedding. Mlb, good to know you have used Simplifly with chickens. I think I am going to try it this year. It’s time to get started on it - we have had lots of warm weather this year and I’m betting the flies will come early. Thanks all.

[Palm_Beach]

I don’t have many flies at my place since I spread manure directly on my fields, and don’t have a manure pile.

[tinah]

Chickens increase the bio load. Might need more predators. That said, we avoid putting out the predators in the 5 acres or so the chickens roam.

[S1969]

I don’t think the manure pile is the source of flies; my first stage manure “bunker” is near the barn and there really are very few flies in/near it, but they do cluster around fresh manure in the stalls and I imagine, in the fields. I think by the time the manure goes into the pile there are already eggs in it; flipping the pile more often would definitely help, but the manure under the surface is definitely not producing flies. The bigger issue is the manure that doesn’t get piled up.

If I had chickens, I would try putting them in the fields to help scatter the manure and pick out larvae from the piles in the pasture. I’ve considered getting chickens just for this purpose but have never pulled the trigger on it. We have tons of birds of prey and I feel like it might be a daily battle to keep them from being eaten.

[ktm_here]

I use simplifly and predators. I do have chickens as well–they only free range when I am home/around the barn. We have too many hawks and neighbor dogs.

I put the predators in a bucket and hang the bucket near the stalls. I think they still work and our flies are not too bad. We get bad mosquitos for about a month in June but other than that, it’s quite tolerable. I am planning to add 2 bat houses this year.

[trubandloki]

When we first got chickens the Predator calculator told us we could use less predators, so we cut back the number we received that summer. That was a bad idea. The next summer we went back to the number we had before and we had our usual lack of fly experience.

I sure wish there was something we could do about the darn gnats.

[stb]

Gnat predators would be nice. Also mosquito predators.

Interestingly, last year we had a sudden infestation of horseflies. I mean, they were everywhere and they were awful. Within a week of them showing up we had hordes of dragonflies show up. The dragonflies ate the horse flies, God bless them, and when the horseflies were gone the large groups of dragonflies left. Kind of freaky but really cool.

[george]

Fly management is a passion of mine. I have used a variety of methods in combination. I love fly predators and like to start them early even if a few shipments die due to cold weather. Getting an early start on ordering predetors in the spring and ordering enough of them has made a huge difference in fall flies. I also hang stinky traps along all property fenclines that have cows or horses on the other side. I check the traps once a week and empty dead flies, add water, or add attractant depending on what the traps need. I keep the manure pile covered and use a soil thermometer to check temperature. I do not turn the pile but I do keep the pile at the correct moisture and temperature level for decomposition and bacteria killing. Once the pile is cool enough I use worms to break it down quickly into truly beautiful rich black soil that goes out to the pastures as fertilizer. I am looking at bar houses and would like to add that to the fly arsenal.

[stb]

george, do you add worms to your compost pile?

[george]

STB, I absolutely add worms to my compost pile. Before using worms, I found that compost took forever to break down. After worms I was able to create beautiful garden or pasture ready soil that will make plants grow well even on clay hardpan. The trick I found with worms is monitoring soil temperature and moisture level of a pile. Initially, I want the temperature to get as hot as possible so that bad bacteria, parasites, and nasties all get killed. Often you see the manure taking on a whitish tinge and breaking down. You want it to be moist but not wet. I add a bit of water to the natural moisture of fresh manure usually by leaving a hose on drip on top of my pile for a couple hours. The pile needs to get up to 130 degrees for several days. The pile will then start to cool down. Once it is at 80 degrees, I add in my worms. If I am at a new facility or have not been using worms, a bit a pound here: https://www.groworganic.com/redworms…0-1200-lb.htmlIt seems silly to get a pound of worms in the mail but they work well. I also like to arrange manure piles in connected sections. My first pile is an active pile I am adding to. That’s the one I want heating up. My next pile is either another active heating pile or it has started to cool. Usually my third pile is my worm pile and my forth pile is my pasture ready pile. Worms only work in a temperature range of about 10 degrees. They propagate like mad and will do an incredible job of given the right environment. When you set up connected but distinct piles, the worms abandon the pile that is pasture ready and move on to new food by themselves so you don’t have to constantly buy more worms. All the manure pile management seems daunting but when handled, it just seems like a part of the routine and works well. Nothing I have found makes for a better flower, vegetable garden, or pasture then worm castings and the difference in flies between managed and un-managed manure piles is incredible. This method has worked better for me for fly control then having manure trucked off property, spreading it out paper thin, or using a super fancy system with forced air.

[stryder]

@4LeafCloverFarm

One thought @stb is to encourage bats (you can put up bat hotels at various locations on trees and sides of structures) and to encourage fly catchers and other insect loving bird species by adding appropriate housing and nesting for them as well.

One year I suggested to my veterinarian that maybe the BO should recruit some bats. I thought his head would explode. Instead he spewed a rant about how many diseases bats carry. I don’t remember the details, but it sounded like rabies was the least of the worries.

[4LeafCloverFarm]

@stryder I think some people just don’t like bats, like some people don’t like snakes. And while it is true that bats do carry diseases that don’t make them sick, I would say that 1) they are nocturnal, so you rarely see them and 2) no one is suggesting people handle them! Bats are an important part of the ecosystem. Out of fear, many have been eliminated/eradicated and the result is one reason insects take over (just one reason, not the only reason). A single bat can eat over 1,000 insects an hour. That’s a lot of insects!

[stryder]

@4LeafCloverFarm

[USER=“111906”]s A single bat can eat over 1,000 insects an hour. That’s a lot of insects!

It is a lot of insects. He wasn’t suggested people kill them, but didn’t think attracting them was a good idea. Probably something to do with water sources, etc.

[Lyons_Show_Jumpers_L]

@george

STB, I absolutely add worms to my compost pile. Before using worms, I found that compost took forever to break down. After worms I was able to create beautiful garden or pasture ready soil that will make plants grow well even on clay hardpan. The trick I found with worms is monitoring soil temperature and moisture level of a pile. Initially, I want the temperature to get as hot as possible so that bad bacteria, parasites, and nasties all get killed. Often you see the manure taking on a whitish tinge and breaking down. You want it to be moist but not wet. I add a bit of water to the natural moisture of fresh manure usually by leaving a hose on drip on top of my pile for a couple hours. The pile needs to get up to 130 degrees for several days. The pile will then start to cool down. Once it is at 80 degrees, I add in my worms. If I am at a new facility or have not been using worms, a bit a pound here: https://www.groworganic.com/redworms…0-1200-lb.htmlIt seems silly to get a pound of worms in the mail but they work well. I also like to arrange manure piles in connected sections. My first pile is an active pile I am adding to. That’s the one I want heating up. My next pile is either another active heating pile or it has started to cool. Usually my third pile is my worm pile and my forth pile is my pasture ready pile. Worms only work in a temperature range of about 10 degrees. They propagate like mad and will do an incredible job of given the right environment. When you set up connected but distinct piles, the worms abandon the pile that is pasture ready and move on to new food by themselves so you don’t have to constantly buy more worms. All the manure pile management seems daunting but when handled, it just seems like a part of the routine and works well. Nothing I have found makes for a better flower, vegetable garden, or pasture then worm castings and the difference in flies between managed and un-managed manure piles is incredible. This method has worked better for me for fly control then having manure trucked off property, spreading it out paper thin, or using a super fancy system with forced air.

That sounds fantastic! Could you share pictures of your set up please?

[stb]

This is fascinating! Thanks for the worm info, george!