Making shims for Western Saddle.

Had the saddle fitter out today, and was mightily relieved that she actually liked my saddle for Chuck…Western Saddle on Shark finned TB. Now although the tree shape is good, we do need to shim the back of the saddle, but not sure what’s the best stuff to buy, or where to look. I’m going to have to build a custom pad for him I think.

Today I rode in a makeshift set up, and oh my, the difference, it was such a great feeling, can’t wait to get something that makes him comfortable, and puts me in a better position, as a bonus.

So, what to buy to make shims?

We get some foam pads at Walmart or such store, in the mattress department and sculp it to fit what we want with an electric kitchen knife.

We used foam eggcrate stuff, but today they have other kinds, like memory foam pads, close cell, etc.

Pick what you like best.

We put those between saddle pad and saddle skirts.
The shims stay put fine, never had one slip out.

Works for any kind of saddle, western or not.

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I don’t have any experience with Western saddles, but I have the English version of this pad: https://www.amazon.com/ECP-Therapeutic-Contoured-Correction-Midnight/dp/B079G8HPNN/ref=asc_df_B079G8HPNN/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312126386816&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17594040155691071394&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007829&hvtargid=pla-570962635343&psc=1 and ended up making my own shims for it because the ones it came with sucked. I used a foam water slide mat that I got from a water park years ago, but you can also use something like this: https://www.rei.com/rei-garage/product/149126/alps-mountaineering-foam-mat-xl-625-sleeping-pad. After my horse filled out, I needed a thinner set and ended up cutting up an old Thinline pad.

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I have had some clients use the Prolite Pads under their western saddles and it worked really well.

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Good ideas, thanks

Poron is used to absorb shock – you can find it from Amazon, or you can find Poron XRD as a shim in Toklat T3 Matrix shim pad, which allows you to place the shim anywhere. Classic Equine makes some beveled shims that work for lifting saddle, but not as good at impact absorbtion.

The risk with all shims is that while you balance the saddle for the rider, you might be driving the saddle into the horse at one end or the other, and as you muscle up your horse, the need for shims may need to be adjusted.

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Yup, I think it will be ongoing, was just happy to hear that he is starting to build a top line, was worried that he had some atrophy, but no, just really really high withers. I was shocked to find out that we need to shim the back of the saddle, but made so much sense when I saw how differently it sat.

Decades ago, I had saddle maker Gary McClintock make me a wool pad with shim pockets. It let my wade fit my OTTB like a dream. His design was copied by Diamond Wool and is widely available. (Both horse and Gary have passed but my pad is still going strong.)

I know you had a saddle-fitter out, but shimming the back is very unusual, makes me think the saddle might be too narrow in front, maybe in attempt to clear the withers?

Saddle-fitting is my least favorite thing to do, second only to horse shopping… I had equal opinions on my saddle that it was both too narrow and too wide. Finally settled on too wide, me placing it too far back, and a thicker pad (SPH). Everyone is happy now.

I too was surprised, first, that a western saddle needs shims, those very rarely do, but is not unheard.
What I have not heard is that it needs shimming on the back?

Mostly a too wide saddle can be made to work with special built-up pads in front, no need to shim.
Very rarely a horse is so uneven in front you try shimming.

Now, English saddles, yes, those have all kinds of shims, pommel pads, built-up pads behind, etc.

Still, the main question, what to use for shims, that one is easy to answer today with all that is out there that can be made to work for that.

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You will also rarely see someone trying to fit a Western saddle on this shape.

I was shocked at the suggestion, but when I saw the difference, and felt how he moved, I was convinced.

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@KBC what kind of western saddle do you have? My boy is built very similar to yours and I’m having a hard time finding a western saddle (with help from my saddle fitter). She said we would probably need shims as well, but most likely bridging shims for the middle of his back.

It’s a Reinsman Trail Saddle, love that Saddle! Yes, going to have to have the shims thicker at the back, then tapering through, we will be watching carefully to see how things progress, maybe will have to change Saddles in the future, but for now we can make this work. He has always been a challenge to fit, even in his previous English life, good job he is awesome!

I was looking at Tucker Saddles, I’m told they can work well with this shape.

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It is hard to tell anything from a photo, but when you look at him, and ignore the wither, just from top of shoulder blade to croup, he is level or slightly downhill – which would lead me to think bridging pads or front pads, but not rear, unless the saddle is too narrow in front – and then lifting the rear would feel level, but maybe perched due to minimal bar contact.

In any case, OP, I would spring for the Classic Equine shims – a couple different sizes, a nice taper, inexpensive – I liked them, even though I ended up not using them, and they let you experiment.

(I don’t suppose you have a photo of him with the saddle, no pad and uncinched – for us armchair curious types?)

(Believe me, I thought my farrier and vet were right about my horse’s shoeing until this forum pointed out some things, and the end result was a new farrier and vet and a horse that is no longer tripping. I value the opinions here!)

Don’t think I do, might get some if I remember!

Classic Equine, will have a look see.

Eta, nope nothing like that, just crappy quality pic with saddle on day I bought him

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I concur with BlueDrifter. Possible bridging issue. You might lunge him W-T-C under saddle, no pad. You might see a rock, or even if too wide, the saddle ride up his neck. Beautiful horse, I love grayolas.

Decades ago we had an open jumper that had been born really swayback, was one of those horses you wonder how they function.
What we did, we used a short thick western pad and over that the regular pad and English saddle.
Worked great for him, that smaller bottom pad kept the saddle up where his back would have been if not so swayback.

I would say, that too would have worked with a western saddle on a horse with that problem.

You could try that, since the saddle being too wide will work with more padding.
First put a short, round barrel racer pad, with soft edges.
Then add a regular saddle pad and saddle.
May just work for you, until you find something better.

In the picture with the saddle, it does look like the saddle is not level, but higher in front, as if it could use a thicker pad on the back?

I assume you have tried other saddles and nothing was fitting better?

@Bluey we tried a lot on him, but nothing was better than what I have, at least the angles are good!

Her suggestion, replace my old 3/4” 5 star pad with something thicker, then Raise the back of the saddle, with shims…thicker at the back, then tapering off, but yes watch for bridging.

He was used very lightly last year, and stood most of the winter, we are going to nurse him through the summer, and check again in the fall, when hopefully he may have a better top line. We will be vigilant in checking for any signs of discomfort.

@Brown Derby LOL., there are two things I’m pretty sure of, one, don’t have to worry about saddle slipping while mounting. Two, nothing is ever going to slide UP that wither :lol::lol:

Three pics, one with 5star pad, and my Coopers Ridge, shimmed at back, and through the middle, then 5 Star alone, then nothing.

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Hopefully same order from front

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