I’ve seen it recommended by some trainers, and tried it myself, for saddles where the stirrup bar is placed a bit too forward for the rider’s conformation. You’re still sliding the stirrup leathers over the bar as usual, but putting something in front of it to stop the leather from sitting as far forward. A full cheek keeper happens to be a convenient size and with a loop readymade to be slid over the stirrup bar. I’ve also heard or wrapping a rubber band around it, but that seems like it would be more prone to shifting
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After mulling this over, I wonder if it might be worth trying an overnight stay to see if that gets him more relaxed.
Ship in the day before he shows, ride him, let him hack around the property, school in the ring if possible, hand graze by the ring a bit. Let him sleep in the stall there overnight, and then see if he’s more relaxed in the show ring the next day when he has a chance to soak up the whole atmosphere a bit more. Some of them just need a little more time to settle.
Just a thought. 
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Huh. Interesting. Thanks.
If there’s a Rural King, etc nearby, the little cheerio-esque calf banding bands are perfect for this. They’re super thick and exactly sized to hug a stirrup bar without being bulky.
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@Night_Flight Not to derail the thread, but curious: what issues would suggest that the stirrup bar is too far forward for someone?
Probably time to learn how to ride with two reins. Using the snaffle ring of an elevator bit isn’t EXACTLY like a loose ring snaffle, but it’s a lot closer than an elevator with converters. Put the second rein on the second or third ring and only use it when necessary.
Have your trainer give you a private lesson to work on your half halt. You can also use the common exercise of jumping a line or single jump and stopping on the straight line after. Keeping the horse straight is key.
Finally, a lot of horses run through corners when they’re over weighting their inside shoulder. Practicing shoulder in around the ends of the ring can help build the strength for better balance in turns. Practice in all gaits as you get better.
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I am not an expert, but my understanding is that if the stirrup bar is too far forward, the lower leg is likely to swing forward, and the rider is likely to struggle with their balance and fall backwards when out of the saddle (posting or two-point).
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Fair enough, thanks!
Agreeing with what most everyone else is saying here, but what I did also note in the KY video was that your crop was a bit busy and kinda stuck out. If you tend to be busier with your hands (and totally guilty of it myself), is it possible that your crop is distracting him and adding to the nerves if he sees it bouncing around and keeps anticipating it? That can definitely become encourage a more “rolling cannon” type ride if the horse notes it bouncing around a bit and is a little shy to it. Unless he’s definitely one that needs a tap from time to time… maybe try a few rounds without it, or try to find a kid’s crop that’s shorter and will lay quiet on your thigh? Just a thought.
The other thing to note is that your martingale seems a bit long. I’ve had horses get stronger when they were able to be more of a giraffe. Although, in theory, it sounds like it would be counterintuitive to a heavy horse, but if you’re able to keep better straightline contact, the problem may solve itself.
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I agree about the crop. If your TB has raced he will be well aware of your crop waving. Keep it down and out of his sight. 
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For OP…my trainer got into me over being handsy, tell you 2 things she had me do that helped. I was a fairly accomplished rider, as are you, think its harder to change established habits for us then more novice riders but these worked.
On the flat, get a comfortable rein length and run a stick across both hands under thumbs and above forefingers, like a bridge. Then walk around, do circles and direction changes. Eventually trot. It’s HARD. But it sure improves your feel of what your hands are doing, worked for me and the Big Eq kids in the barn. Helps with straightness down the lines and to settle the horse and you don’t need to jump that way, just simple flatwork. It’s humbling.
Second, more important, program your thinking to accept you got what you got 3 strides out. When you hit the 3 strides out point put your knuckles on the neck and Grab Mane, stay there over the fence and for 3 strides after landing. It’s a simple exercise but another HARD to master one. Not just for busy hands, for letting the horse jump without any additional “help”. You can’t change anything inside of three strides out except screw it up. I would bag the stick as it makes the correct crest release with mane difficult and he will see it coming forward until you anchor your hands on the neck.
Try these. Simple. But killer.
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Thought of something else that might help you. The trick to riding most judged disciplines is not to be perfect but to make it LOOK perfect.
The great riders do this by not losing focus by visibly reacting to mistakes-they make it look like horse is doing exactly what they want. Its hard not to get frustrated and lose confidence when others are so perfect to the point you think it’s hopeless and consider giving it up.
They are NOT Perfect. Every round has things that could have been better and 99% of rounds have mistakes that riders ride through without telegraphing to watchers. Sharp judge will see it but the average watcher can’t see those details that make a round a 75 or a 90.
Just don’t want you to get turned of or frustrated with Hunters. They are anything but boring and just as hard to master the skill set as Jumpers despite being “low and slow”.
Think about it and hope you get what I am saying here.
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Having watched your videos, lovely horse!!
One thing that I think it’s important to understand is that and correction is as much about the release as the correction itself. Pulling against each other happens when there’s not a predictable release, or often when the correction isn’t strong enough to get the desired result so you feel like you CAN’T release.
In your schooling time at the show and during any warmup rounds you need to slowly down your horse after the out jump of the line before you start to turn. The thing is to be as adamant as necessary to get a big response and then soften immediately. It doesn’t have to be pretty, but it NEEDS to get a response. This may mean you stop straight after every line until your horse is taking you seriously.
Another great exercise to do at home is to place poles 12 ish feet apart and trot the first and walk the second. Then add a third pole and trot out over that one and halt after. Then you can do the same exercise with trotting and cantering or even cantering in and walking out. You’ve got to get your horse tuned into you. Transitions with a pole as a deadline are a great way to get more in tune with each other.
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I think we forget sometimes that the show horses often don’t get to see very much of the show grounds.
This is a species that likes to know what is going on around them, that likes to see, that likes to feel familiar with their surroundings. But at a show, it’s possible they only see some walks to & from. They may not get to see much of the arenas, either, other than warm-up.
I’ve had horses completely relax after a 30 minute tour of a good bit of the grounds, even if the walk started out a bit electrically. With lots of pauses for staring at amazing things and other horses, and some hand-grazing. Trying to leave all decor intact.
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I just want to say the wealth of knowledge and helpfulness on this board is awesome.
Also, OP, your horse is tres cute.
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I had the same thought. To me it looks like your saddle is putting you in a chair seat and that you are fighting the tack to stay balanced. Have you had a good saddle fitter (not a brand rep) out to check the fit for both of you? Or could you borrow some other saddles to see if it helps your balance?
This is exactly right. If you have a long femur (like I do), having the stirrup bar set too far forward makes it very difficult to keep your leg under you. However, if the saddle isn’t balanced on your horse (too narrow, so pommel high) that can also cause balance issues for the rider).
In terms of busy hands, have you tried approaching the fences while holding onto a neck strap? My anxious TB was much steadier to the fences when I tried that. Coming from an eventing perspective, they are used all the time. I also discovered that when I rode my horses bitless, they often jumped better, which meant the problem was ME getting busy with my hands.
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Yes! This helps.
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I didnt get to read all of the comments (supposed to be working) but what I did read, was very good, and I wanted to chime in because he is adorable and reminds me so much of my OTTB mare in her younger years.
Imagine a tug of war with a rope - each team pulls back and forth. You pull, he pulls, etc. What happens when you let go of the rope, even if just for a moment? “What?! But mom, you can’t do that! Then I have to carry myself! That’s not how we play this game!!!” See what I am saying? When he pulls, let him go for a moment.
Our “big girl breaks” for exciting times when she wanted to ignore me was a very soft rubber mullen mouth pelham. We didn’t need a stronger bit to pull with, but by having the curb as a second reminder that was a different action, it reminded her to be mindful. On flat work days we alternate between a loose ring copper mullen mouth and a french link.
Find some schooling dressage shows and work towards those with him even if you have no intention on doing dressage as your thing. The transition work will be great for him and you can still get him out and get some exposure to going places and do “things.” Plus you may feel a little more relaxed showing somewhere where nobody has any idea who you are =) And yes you might think “am I REALLY doing a walk trot class at a show?”
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Thank you all for the tips and suggestions! I have had a saddle fitter out for my saddle. Right now I have what is called a band-aid (not meant for long term) but since he is young and devloping I dont have the funds for another saddle and his shape is constantly changing so I just have a thinline with shims (4 of them). But this was last fitted earlier this year in which since he has gained weight and topline so I might be able to remove the shims and see how it fit. They will have to come back out.
He had a full work up by Dr. Ober in May and only thing that came out of it was his neck, which we injected. His next one will be this fall. I usually have Dr. Ober look at my guys 2x a year to make sure nothing gets missed. Espeically with their bodies constantly changing with age.
Lastly, I took him to a super low key schooling show this past weekend. I did the adds (well I tried to do them) and of course not use to the rhythm botched it up a lot. BUT I did not have a forward horse in the ends of the ring. Additionally, while showing my jumper this weekend it came out that I was trying to follow his movement with my elbows OUT versus by my side, so really focused on that with my hunter and it made a world of difference (who knew 
)
Here is one of our rounds.
also thank you for all the comments on him. Hes a quirky special dude who would without a doubt sleep in my bed in my lap with me ALL the time.
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He looked WAY more manageable on the ends of the ring! Those rounds will build his confidence a lot more, even if they’re not perfect every time.
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