Uber-sensitive Connemara training question

[horsenic]

Hi! So last fall before I left on my extended overseas trip, against all better judgment I bought a horse after I sold Art. I bought him sight unseen off this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dirxz1YTUjM

He looked like a nice mover, he is closely related to Art, and he was too much for the breeder so she wanted to move him and the price was right. She said he was sensitive, but I had no idea he’d be this sensitive. He’s wicked smart, very flighty, high strung and hot. He’s also extremely catty and quick…spins and jumps faster than I can blink an eye or remotely prepare for it. Pretty much the exact opposite of Arty, apart from the fact he is also very athletic. Here are a few photos:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/135852136@N07/

Anyways, I’m sure having a heck of a time with this guy after bringing him back into work after my trip. I know the cowboy who broke him did a lot of damage to this poor guy, as he’s so sensitive and takes everything personally. After barely managing to get through this painful video, everything Dev does makes a bit more sense.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wdz14iXQ2TY

He is constantly chomping the bit and plowing down on it, very nervous and anxious, overly sensitive to every little signal and thing that is going on in or around the ring. He’s like nothing I’ve ever ridden, and I’m getting frustrated as I know he’s got a ton of potential but I’m going to have to do a lot of backtracking and take things very slow with this one. Oh, he also has two tight, horizontal whorls high on his forehead, which I never knew meant anything until someone mentioned the ranch they worked at shot any foals born with similar double whorls.

Anyways, all that to say, I would love some training tips, helpful exercises to calm him down and allow him to better accept contact, insights on these types of horses, success stories, anything you can give me as I’m getting a tad exasperated. I love the horse to death and definitely won’t be giving up on him, but he sure is challenging in ways I have little experience with. Thanks so much!!

[soloudinhere]

Well, we might own the same horse. I have a connemara who was likely broken the same way and has exactly the same response. I have been able to teach him to bring his nose down and in, but that’s about all I own - I do not have control of the midsection and he is very reluctant to offer it to me. His reaction to anything he is unsure of is to get quick, tight in the neck, or overbend, depending on the day. Quick and tight in the neck is by far the most common.

The fix, that I have had the most success with so far, has been to just shorten my reins, ignore whatever he is doing, and send him forward and straight. Forget bending around the turns, etc. My reins are shorter than I’d like because the general idea is that I have the contact, and I will follow him, even if he gets tight in the neck. If he comes against me or is trying to run off or blow through my aids, I take back quite strongly from the elbow until he is almost doing a downward, then let go and send him forward again. Horses like this HAVE to find their own balance, because they want to rely on you except they don’t trust you, so instead they just get worried. I have to pretty much say “hey - sort it out.” Within one day of doing this, he was already playing with coming down into a true contact and was much quieter in the mouth (he will chomp chomp chomp). He has no option to suck back and get busy in the brain or mouth because when I say I send him forward - I mean FORWARD.

The way my trainer explained it was basically that he could not handle too many inputs, so I had to ask exactly one question, and he has to do exactly one thing. As he does that, the balance will sort itself out and so will the contact. He simply has to go straight, forward, and he cannot tune me out and do whatever his little mental case decides is the issue today. If he does, I check him strongly taking straight back from the elbow keeping the straight line with his mouth until he downshifts and then let go and send him forward again.

It felt strange as all get out but I can’t deny that it worked. You basically take advantage of the natural hotness/forwardness/sensitivity to keep their feet going and their brain settled, at the same time installing a “safe” place for them mentally where they are looking to you for really general, really clear, instructions about where they are going and what they are doing next, versus tuning out a whole lot of background noise and doing whatever they want.

[NJRider]

Did you ever put him on ulcer treatment? Seems like a prime candidate!

[horsenic]

Thanks for the insightful post soloudinhere! NJRider he’s never been on ulcer treatment, I’ve never dealt with a horse with ulcers so don’t really know the symptoms ulcers can have. He did come out of the winter quite skinny and I’m having a heck of a time trying to put weight on him…could this be another effect of ulcers? He has a mssive appetite and always finishes all his food though…my vet suggested to treat him with safe guard for small strongyles.

[NJRider]

It seems he was subjected to a high stress environment at the trainers, plus being nervous and tense, those are some symptoms. I am generally not a hypochondriac type but I have seen from experience that if this is the case you are almost fighting a losing battle with the training if he is in pain. Plus being highly sensitive, his diet. turnout etc should be looked at as to what is the best program for him. I do not have access to a vet that can scope so I have always just ordered at least a 2 week round of Gastroguard if I suspect ulcers, then you have an idea fairly quickly if that is part of his issues.

[QUOTE=horsenic;8541259]
Thanks for the insightful post soloudinhere! NJRider he’s never been on ulcer treatment, I’ve never dealt with a horse with ulcers so don’t really know the symptoms ulcers can have. He did come out of the winter quite skinny and I’m having a heck of a time trying to put weight on him…could this be another effect of ulcers?[/QUOTE]

[luvmyhackney]

The fact he is not gaining weight and went through a very stressful time, makes him a prime candidate for ulcers. Check his feed as well, make sure he is not on rocket fuel (high sugar) that is making him silly. Instead of dosing him with safe guard, get a fecal done if possible and find out exactly what is going on, then treat appropriately.

[soloudinhere]

Should add to all this that my guy is on 3lbs a day of ration balancer, hay, and is ulcer free and is still quite sensitive, so yes, it’s also entirely possible that it’s his personality even after you treat for ulcers.

I did have luck giving this horse depo for a few months to smooth him out a bit so he was trainable. No guarantees, but a shot of depo is about $25 and it did resolve some of his general life anxiety so he was starting from a more level place for riding.

[horsenic]

Thanks for the input. I looked up some of the symptoms for ulcers and he doesn’t seem to match many of them…he was at the trainer’s July of last year and since then has had it really easy, he had plenty of weight on him once I left for Asia. He has a huge appetite, hair coat is in fine condition, likes to work and has a good attitude towards working, no mental dullness, doesn’t lie down more than normal or show signs of dullness. So not sure. I’m not too worried about his weight, he’s not dangerously thin. And I truly think how he is under saddle comes from his demeanor and the training he underwent last year. Who knows though, I know I still have a ton to learn when it comes to horses. I would really love training tips though, as I know this guy will be a gooder, I just need to patiently work towards cracking his code!

[Winding_Down]

OP, how old is he? I may know him, or know more about him from other sources. I know of one that would be older than 5… that looks just like him. He was sent back to the breeder summer 2014.

I would get a full “physical” on him, including blood work. I would also scope him for ulcers if the bloodwork is normal.

Is he insured? That might be a good idea.

edited to add: does he have major medical insurance…

[vineyridge]

I have a couple of suggestions that you should probably ignore.
Get a gallon of U-7 liquid and give him the recommended amount at the recommended times. I used a syringe, and my horse loved it. It coats the stomach, so is a pretty good trial for ulcers.

If you aren’t already, try a more stable bit in his mouth–a baucher or a full cheek with keepers. Or a straight kimberwick with curb chain. All are very mild, and don’t niggle at his mouth.

Another, kind of off the wall suggestion would be to see how he likes a driving rein. They keep your hands very light. Try them on the flat as an experiment.

I’m not saying you have heavy hands, but if he was treated harshly during his breaking, he might be anticipating harshness when in tack and acting out. If the tack feels different, he might not be as stressed. You know what they say about horses not being able to connect things that feel different.

Don’t make his work sessions longer than 20 minutes. Start with something that he has done well, even if it’s just walking in a straight line, get a good one, then in the last five or six or seven minutes, add one new thing. As soon as he gets it, stop. If he doesn’t get it in five minutes or so, go back to the thing that he does do well, get a good version of that and stop. Always stop on a positive note for you and him.

I agree that you should break everything you do down into separate parts and ask him for only one thing at a time. Don’t ask for anything complicated until he trusts you.

Have you tried ground driving him? That’s a way to get him outside the ring without danger to you.

[poltroon]

My Connemara is also on the sensitive side. I’m not sure what you are seeing and dealing with. My mare is fortunate to have always been handled by people who did right by her, but she is also very smart, very bonded to particular people, and a horse that is more forgiving with people she trusts.

I would say, try to get the horse really working with you in some way. You might find that even something like groundwork or clicker training would be a valuable way to get his trust and confidence back. The clicker is great for communication - clear signal to the horse that “yes, that’s what we were trying for there” that can be very helpful when working with an anxious individual.

If he’s tense in the ring, do you have the ability to ride out on the trail in a safe way? Just getting some miles could be good.

The exercise I like most for my horse when she is tight and anxious is the ribbon. Trot a pattern like ribbon candy, a highly compressed serpentine, up and down the arena. What is great about this exercise is that you are constantly on a bend, and I find that it’s a great way to get a stretchy trot going. The horse is maybe wanting to invert and get scooty but can’t because you’re always on a bend and if you can get them relaxed and safe it can be very soothing.

Don’t clamp down on the reins. If you feel the horse getting away from you, an alternate releasing rein (especially when cantering) can end rooting, pulling behavior. You basically keep the tension on one rein as normal, then loop the other rein forward for say 3-5 strides so the contact is only in one hand. If the horse is pulling, this is uncomfortable for him, and yet not scary because now he knows he will get his mouth back for himself. Then you take the contact back. Try releasing the other rein now.

Also, my pony likes a solid mullen bit and hates anything jointed that moves in her mouth. Alas, the best bit for her is the Herm Sprenger D ring Duo. Good news, it comes in 4 3/4, bad news is that it’s $150 and it can be chewed up. But, steel mullens are affordable, and something like that might be worth a try.

This sounds like a horse that might be worth finding a good eventing clinician to work with, ideally someone who can see you on some regular basis and give you homework.

Good luck!

[horsenic]

Thanks so much for the suggestions! This horse really isn’t a terror, he’s just a challenge. By the end of the ride I can get him going quite calmly, with a decent connection though still chomping at the bit especially in the walk and halt. He likes to bear down on it when I ask for turns, which is understandable after watching the cowboy video. Out on trails he is great, a lot more relaxed than in the ring and goes out on his own no problem.

I think I will definitely try a different bit and some of the exercises suggested. Also thinking about doing the ulcer treatment as well, though I’m still wondering if he really fits the symptoms of a horse suffering from them.

Winding Down, he turns five in July or August of this year. Just curious why you think I should insure him and get bloodwork done?

[TrailRides4Fun]

[QUOTE=horsenic;8541209]

Hi! So last fall before I left on my extended overseas trip, against all better judgment I bought a horse after I sold Art.
I bought him sight unseen off this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dirxz1YTUjM

He looked like a nice mover, he is closely related to Art, and he was too much for the breeder so she wanted to move him and the price was right.
She said he was sensitive, but I had no idea he’d be this sensitive.
He’s wicked smart, very flighty, high strung and hot.
He’s also extremely catty and quick…spins and jumps faster than I can blink an eye or remotely prepare for it.
Pretty much the exact opposite of Arty, apart from the fact he is also very athletic. Here are a few photos:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/135852136@N07/

Anyways, I’m sure having a heck of a time with this guy after bringing him back into work after my trip.
I know the cowboy who broke him did a lot of damage to this poor guy, as he’s so sensitive and takes everything personally.
After barely managing to get through this painful video, everything Dev does makes a bit more sense.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wdz14iXQ2TY

He is constantly chomping the bit and plowing down on it, very nervous and anxious,
overly sensitive to every little signal and thing that is going on in or around the ring.
He’s like nothing I’ve ever ridden, and I’m getting frustrated as I know he’s got a ton of potential
but I’m going to have to do a lot of backtracking and take things very slow with this one.
Oh, he also has two tight, horizontal whorls high on his forehead,
which I never knew meant anything until someone mentioned the ranch they worked at shot any foals born with similar double whorls.

Anyways, all that to say, I would love some training tips, helpful exercises to calm him down and allow him to better accept contact,
insights on these types of horses, success stories, anything you can give me as I’m getting a tad exasperated.
I love the horse to death and definitely won’t be giving up on him,
but he sure is challenging in ways I have little experience with.
Thanks so much!![/QUOTE]

Geeeeez!! That ‘trainer’ needs to be shot, and then - spurred and whipped!!! :eek:
No wonder that poor horse is a wreck :eek:
I think you have to start all over again with this terrified fellow
and teach him that he can TRUST you not to HURT him.
He was obviously in fear for his life with that MORON on his back, DISGUSTING!

Start him over from the ground up, like he has never been
started under saddle, and was allowed to be TERRIFIED to no end :mad:
Adjust his diet accordingly, with plenty of good hay,
daily UGARD for ulcers, and add in a calming supplement so
he is getting every advantage to calm down.
No spurs - for God’s sake !!!,…, that video is sooo disgustingly inhumane to watch
I’d just give him 6 months off to learn to trust you are not going to hurt him by doing LOTS of ground work for trust.
Check his mouth and teeth, and have him vetted to rule out pain.
Introduce tack and rider GENTLY.
And, desensitize his sides with your hands, and legs on sides,
once under saddle, so that every touch does not mean
he FEARS he has to run away from them.
Help him realize that he doesn’t have to ‘over react’ to every touch.
Re-assess in 6 months.
OP, do you have an instructor, or a REAL trainer who can help you get him started PROPERLY under saddle??
He needs to completely RE-LEARN that he can trust humans,
and that over reaction is not his ‘go to’ when he is learning.

I think you have a long road ahead of you UNDOING all that has been done to him FIRST, before you can expect him to begin to
understand that being ridden does not equal - being terrified.

Good luck with him!
But PLEASE do not give up on him once you start.
He has been hurt and disappointed terribly by others in his past.
It will take commitment, TIME, and patience to rebuild his trust.
Poor boy, who could possibly blame him after that horrendous treatment :mad:

[Willesdon]

By the end of the ride I can get him going quite calmly, with a decent connection… Out on trails he is great, a lot more relaxed than in the ring and goes out on his own no problem.

Well, just think about the breed. A ‘mountain and moorland’ pony. He was designed to live outside, walking to find graze and, when working, to
do interesting things like hunting or trail riding (as no one carries loads of seaweed to the fields these days). Also, at five he is still growing up and probably needs a bit more time to mature, mentally and physically. Connies mature at about 6 or 7 years old.

So go with what works. You obviously really like him and he looks like a lovely boy. That is a great start towards building trust. A native pony has a canny mind and will bond closely with a person but it can take time. Spend as much time with him as you are able, not only riding but sitting, talking, grooming and just hanging out.

He likes going out and works well outside the arena so go out more and do formal things in an arena much less. After watching the cowboy video, I suspect that he associates anything to do with enclosed space and circles with not particularly pleasant work.

A great many ponies in the UK are ridden in pelhams with roundings. I have never worked out why they work. A straight mullen-mouth often seems to be preferred by the pony.

[enjoytheride]

I had a VERY hard time putting weight on my mare, tried all sorts of things. I ended up with Coca Soya which worked like magic. I put her on it for a 4 months and she got a little fat and so I took her off it and she has maintained. She was quite upset as she loved the taste and would eat the grain covered in it first.

I agree with the other posters. Go forward and straight and ignore everything else. Keep enough contact to control any spinning or bucking and don’t force a head set. When he’s relaxed leg yield him into a corner while trotting, take the contact there, and ride out of the corner like nothing happened.

You can also look at playing some games with him on the ground and under saddle and working with a proper cowboy that does things like obstacles.

[bornfreenowexpensive]

Rule out things like ulcers (and I’ve had many horses with significant ulcers who never lost their appetite etc). I do adjust their feed as that can make a huge difference and use supplements like Exstress.

But after that, you just need to take many steps back, ride with finesse and be very aware of how clear you are with your aids and how loud. I prefer a sensitive horse. Most people are too loud with their aids on them. Soft elbow, leg on but not tense. You almost never need to use your heel. Be quick to be quite, be very calm and also be quick to reward. He actually sounds interesting to me but perhaps suited at this time to only a certain type of rider.

[Jleegriffith]

I bought a terror of a conn/tb as a 3yr and he also was broke by someone who was an idiot and didn’t know what they were doing. Many people think Connemara’s are quiet but I think it depends on the breeding. Mine is not quiet but he is the best damn horse if you know what you are doing. I went back to ground work teaching him to lunge quietly and just gaining his confidence. Then I just went out and did a bunch of hacking with him as a 3yr. Didn’t worry about anything just hacking out. He was very sensitive but very very brave and it allowed him to just focus on going forward and not being messed with in terms of asking anything of him.

Then I started to work on getting him to accept the leg…hot horses or sensitive horses are good at convincing you to take your leg off but you need to do the opposite. So we worked on his acceptance of leg and half halts. Using my seat and legs without the rein but making the trot slow…sometimes very slow so that I could get him to relax. With these guys you often have to slow it down to get relaxation.

I use bending to get mine soft in his neck…they are short and tight in the neck but mine always had such a soft mouth so I again focused on slowing it all down and just teaching him to move from leg aids. I used a nathe bit encourage him to trust in his mouth.

It takes good riding to teach a very sensitive horses to accept the leg.

[Hilary]

He looks from both videos that he is very tense in his body - his legs move, but the rest of him doesn’t. So the cowboy was trying (badly) to get him to move his ribcage, ‘disconnect’ the hind end, but since he was so tight, it didn’t work, so the guy got rough with him.

My super reactive mare was also like this in her body - and I don’t know if the first causes the second? Or the other way around.

He may react well to good quality round pen and ground work where he learns that you are his leader but not with force. Think Elisa Wallace and her mustangs.

I’m sorry he’s not what you expected - Arty was pretty special.

[fordtraktor]

He is lovely. I agree with Jleegriffith. Put a little leg on, take the lightest of contacts, and just slow everything down. Time and patience. You have to be on the horse’s schedule, not yours.

I love a mullen mouth type of bit for this kind of horse, they seem to prefer them. The Duo is great. My sensitive dude kept chewing them up so I am trying the Novocontact with him which is similarly good at encouraging contact and he seems to like it pretty well.

[Inclined]

Another suggestion would be to try some sort of bitless alternative for a while to help him relax. I have a smart, sensitive large pony/small horse that has benefited from a couple of different bitless setups. He’s moving freely now, and if I reintroduce the bit to him, it will probably be a leather one to start with (like this one: https://squareup.com/market/winterpast-farm/the-pacifier-d-ring-round ).