The choices are dizzying and reviews for the same product vary wildly. I know that mileage varies due to all the factors that go into growing grass seed too, but I’m developing a bad case of “choice paralysis”.
What brand name and/or seed company have you come to rely on for quality product at a good price?
Thank you!!!
Mostly the Co-Op. There is, or at least was, a wholesale supplier not far from here that could beat their prices but it required me to pick up the seed, about a 120 mile round trip, and the price break was thin. And the Co-Op will replace a damaged or defective bag no questions asked and it’s a 25 mile round trip.
G.
The last time I over-seeded our pastures I had a custom mix made at my Co-Op. You just tell them how many pounds of what and it comes out in a bag or bags. The “horse pasture” seed mixes sold pre-bagged are more expensive (or at least they used to be). Plus, in my area, its the only way to buy seed that isn’t 10% or more fescue.
Our local Soil Conservation office has multiple seed drills and one has three boxes. This means you can mix three different products in one pass. Many who use it will put down a drilled crop and also a fertilizer at the same time. Or mix different plant seeds. I’ve mixed orchard grass, timothy, and clover with some success. Self-mixing like this means you can buy the “raw material” and control the percentages with the settings on the drill. It saves significant money over having a “custom mix” of seeds. You also KNOW that the seed you’re getting is the quality you ordered! 
Of course if you don’t have access to this type of multi-box drill then you have to come up with a different strategy.
G.
My local feedstore sells a Pasture Mix for a decent price - IIRC under $50 for a 50# bag.
Know what you are purchasing: read the tag and do the math.
Weight and bag size can be misleading. If seed is “coated” you can be paying for as much as 30% of inert matter (not seed). Filler does not produce, so this bag is actually 30% more expensive.
Are you purchasing certified seed (premium product) or common seed?
Has the product been germination tested? Germination rate declines with age, how old is the seed?
Is the product endophyte free? Yes, you can purchase endophyte free fescue.
Are you over seeding or starting a new field? Know that some weed seeds (example mustard) will germinate after 40-60 years of lying dormant. What is the field history and soil characteristics?
Location, rainfall, heat?
How many acres are involved? Some companies will provide custom mix for orders as small as a few hundred pounds.
Google your local seed companies, and connect with sales staff. They will provide professional guidance and will often provide superior product at lower cost.
Edit to add: seriously question seed coating. Limestone is very cheap, and also heavy. A great way to reduce the amount of costly seed in a bag, and pitch as a wonderful feature. Polymere coating is supposed to protect the seed, and improve flow in seeder. We have not experienced difficulty in germination, or difficulty with seed flow. Again, fewer seeds per bag, seeds are expensive.
The big thing I have been told is to buy local seed, produced to grow well in your area. This from the Grass guys at MSU in Lansing who study production grass growth… I have had excellent luck with a Mare and Foal mixed planting seed, has no fescue because that is bad for bred mares. It has some variety of forage coming up all of the growing season, hot or cold weather. It was expensive but has high, excellent germination rates with tiny percentage of ‘inert’ material in the mix. I have also had good luck with buying straight grass seed, mixing it myself in the seeder. All were fairly ‘locally grown’ to my area. No big Name brand seeds marketed for the whole nation. I buy at the local elevator, asked him for recommendations to grow. I DID have to say ‘no clover’ because many of his seed mixes had clover for cattle in them. Clover will self seed in my fields anyway, but I do not want to plant it.
He sold me Timothy, Perennial Rye grass, Orchard grass, Late Maturing Bluegrass, so it won’t be over ripe if we want to hay the fields later. Birds foot Trefoil is a good legume for grazing, adds nitrogen to the soil, horses like it, pretty tough grower. The field looked real nice by late summer, I just kept it mowed to push root development. It will be fertilized in spring. Because we are thinking of it for hay, I sprayed to kill off weeds. In a pasture with frequent mowing, you can greatly reduce taller weeds without spraying, over time.
My other piece of advice is to READ THE LABELS on seed. Compare those labels to each other. The less expensive stuff will often contain ANNUAL seeds, only good for one year. Perennial means plant comes back year after year, so is a better buy. Much seed has Fescue in it, BAD for mother animals and bred mares. Inert junk percentage in the mix can be high, so the actual seed cost goes up with wasted portion you bought. Not sure if they always give germination rates on bags, like the more expensive seeds do.
My elevator guy told my to buy 20 pounds of seed per acre, for a newly prepared field, when seeding it. Seemed to work well here, good coverage using a 3point, broadcast seeder with a chain harrow dragging right behind the tractor. I used a rented, rotary tiller behind my tractor to prepare the ground, did a nice job, like a garden tiller makes it look! Saved plowing, discing time.
If it is a new field, pay attention to recommended application rate, soil conditions and depth of seed. Failure to grow, is usually operator error. Planting under adverse conditions (drought, extreme heat etc) Depth of application: too deep = seed sprouts but can not reach surface, too shallow = sprouts and dies.
The epic rain we’ve had for the last year has caused some serious erosion, and areas that were prone to mud in wet times are now constantly in a state of almost-soup. I’m trying to restore the bad spots in the rested paddocks before the horses head out on them early summer.
I’m only getting around 80lbs, heavy application spot broadcasting and raking in in trouble areas in the paddocks, nothing fancy. But even 80lbs of seed is a pretty spendy.
I’m looking for specific grass varieties that I’ll blend myself. I don’t want any more clover (which is popular in mixes) and I absolutely want to stay away from fescue, owner of the farm breeds.
I’m mostly concentrating on early sprouting, dense low growing, moisture friendly, northern climate hardy. Kentucky bluegrass, some rye, and crabgrass seem to fit my needs. All but the rye are expensive seeds though.
Since I have to buy online I guess I was hoping to hear of a brand name that someone trusts. I don’t want to spend my hard earned dollars on fillers and coating. Product information is so sketchy on most websites
I always get so jealous of all of you that have co-ops at your disposal, they sound like wonderful resources. Sadly, none by me. The closest thing I can get to a “native mix” is what the DOT uses for roadways around here.
Thank you all for the awesome information though, I really appreciate it!!!
There is an endophyte free fescue that does not impact on breeding stock. It is not necessary to avoid fescue, just purchase the correct fescue.
DOT mix is not likely to fill your needs.
True native grasses are priced far outside of your budget (they are harvested by hand, and very labour intensive. If they fit in your budget you are purchasing crap).
I have a conflict in interest, and will not provide a brand recommendation. If you PM your location, I will suggest a lower cost mix that is likely to meet needs and can be broadcast spread.
Know that purchasing endophyte-free fescue seed to plant, does not mean it will REMAIN that way over time. Fescue around you will probably seed your field, pollen will crossbreed with your plants, so you end up having endophyte on that fescue in the fields. Maybe not much, but it does arrive. That is why I stay totally away from fescue grasses when planting. Trying to reduce fescue exposure. I also mow pretty often which exposes plant to more sunlight which may help keep problems at bay. Just guessing on that though. We also have a foal now and again, don’t want to chance losing it.
Regarding tall fescue, it is a problem almost exclusively with breeding stock. If you’re not breeding then you can use it without fear of problems.
If you are using it if you maintain it (keep it trimmed) then it can be safely used up to about 90 days with mares. The endophyte has it’s most pronounced effect as the plant matures. If you can’t eliminate tall fescue then there is a medication to mitigate the effects of the toxin. From AAEP:
[I]If removing mares from the pasture is not an option, studies showed that domperidone, available from your veterinarian, is the most effective means of relieving fescue toxicosis symptoms.
Studies show that domperidone-treated mares have shorter gestation lengths, have live foals that are born closer to their expected delivery dates, have more mammary development, are not agalactic and have higher prolactain and progesterone levels.
The daily oral domperidone paste, which was developed at Clemson, is started 20 days prior to the expected foaling date if mares remain on toxic fescue up to parturition. If mares are removed from fescue, then starting the paste 10 to 14 days prior to the expected delivery date, depending on the condition of the mare, is recommended. However, mares that appear to be progressing normally after removal from toxic pasture may need little or no drug treatment.
If a mare foals and is agalactic, the pharmaceutical can be used daily for five days after foaling to bring the mare into milk production. Researchers at Clemson have used domperidone four to ten days on mares left on toxic fescue after foaling.[/I]
https://aaep.org/horsehealth/grass-isnt-always-greener-symptoms-and-treatments-fescue-toxicosis
Tall Fescue was the wonder forage for much of the southeast. It’s hardy and stands up to intensive grazing that will kill most other forages. The endophyte is one of the reasons why. About 20 years ago the UT Ag. School put out a program to eliminate Tall Fescue as a forage source, substituting a number of alternatives. After a couple of years it was withdrawn. The economics of the thing is that Tall Fescue just can’t be beat as a general purpose, cool season forage. It’s more economical to manage the forage for your brood mares and use medication than to bear the costs of eradication and substitution (which are SUBSTANTIAL).
G.
I DO NOT buy from the farm supply stores. They really have no clue and always have clover in the pasture mix. I go directly to a seed store. They have a pasture mix and also a turf mix for areas that get more wear and tear. I am seeding my arena with the turf mix.
This is a pretty broad generalization- bold is mine. I work for a co-op farm store chain, and we employee garden folks that know their stuff. We have pasture mixes for different needs bagged from a company right down the road. Don’t put put them off; they’ll guide you through the process of picking out what you need. I’m lucky to live in an area that produces 90% off the grass seed in the US, and the main company that does all of our grass has done the fields for several World Cup Soccer matches, as well as high end farms all over the US.
I read China Doll’s post as the big national brand box stores, like TSC, etc. but perhaps I’m wrong. Oh I wish I had a co-op in my area, would be so useful. Agway is a good resource, but the one in my neck of the woods is more backyard/patio gardening and decorative items for the home - very little farm/equine and no grass seed other than Scotts for your lawn.
I did in the end take a chance on a small order from a seed supplier, seed arrived looks good and clean and bag has all the info on it I wanted to see (so hard finding the labeling online!). So, I’ve found a supplier I trust!
Lets just hope the germination rate is close to as adverised, and I don’t screw it up!
thank you all so much! Even though I answered my own question in the end, its always so interesting and valuable to hear others point of views and experiences!
And, I board on a farm that has bred in the past and may do so in the future… I’m not ever going to knowingly plant even the safest fescue on someone else’s property.
Thanks!
Definitely from the Co-op with advice from the local extension office and/or a farmer friend.
Turn to your local Extension Service people. Have them give you a primer on grasses for horses and your area, and ask them to make a house call to evaluate your proposed pastures. The service is free – actually your tax dollars have paid for them. They will know what grows best in your area, how much to plant, probably do FREE soil analysis and let you know what fertilizer you need, etc., etc. And may know of a local guy with a drill seeder to give it a good start.
A Co-op is different than a farm supply store. They do not employ horticulturist and was surprised when I told them clover is not desirable in a horse pasture. They just sell what they get sent from the warehouse.
Hello,
Can you tell me how to get in touch with these guys? I am struggling to find what I want and I am in the same zone as you. I would make the trip to get the good stuff!
Thanks!
Hankypanky Are you in Michigan? If not, contacting your local (County) State Extension Office can get you connected to information for your area and climate. Elevators selling feed, storing grain for farmers usually also sell grass seed. Calling around to various elevators or Feed suppliers to compare prices can be eye-opening! But comparing will save you money at times too.
The Farm Bureau News is a monthly newspaper by State that comes if you use their insurance. Contains much seed information for planting in coordination with Michigan Extension research. Covers grasses, grazing seeds, wheat, corn, etc in various locations in the State. Might be available online for your State.
Do read labels on mixes, they keep tweaking them and often “they aren’t what they used to be” even a same brand, same named mix! Found fescue in my favorite Mare and Foal mix last year, so did NOT purchase it. Used straight run seed last year, mixed it in the big broadcast seeder for spreading. I drag the chain harrow while dropping seed, since grass needs minimum coverage to germinate.
We are now haying the field across the road, with the seed mix mentioned in my first post. I save the Birdsfoot Trefoil for the pastures, since it doesn’t get very tall for hay. It likes clay soil, adds nitrogen to the soil. Seems fairly tough even in drought and heat. I want mixed plants in pasture so there is always something coming along in cold or hot weather. Timothy is not much of a producer as hay, after first cutting. But not letting it get tall, set seed with regular tall mowing, keeps it growing in pastures most of the season. Same with Orchard Grass, unless you have constant summer rain like last year, after our June drought here. We got two EXCELLENT cuttings of hay last summer and are actually SELLING that hay to clear the barn for this summer’s hay. First year we were ever so blessed with hay abundance!!
I like our Bluegrass, it is quite productive, though not tall like Orchard and Timothy. It makes a good ground cover as pasture turf with regular mowing. Holds my clay dirt in place, well covered so I no longer get stuck on wet days!! We plant it on both the pastures and hayfields.
I have no Alfalfa, it “does not grow well with others.” Kills off other nearby plants in most cases. Not going to do well in my frequent (unless in drought) pasture mowing routine of cut at 8-10 inches, down to 5-6 inch heights. Needs replanting for good/best hay production in about five years (recommended) by sellers.
You might do a search for state name, Forage Council, see what turns up. We have a Michigan Forage Council that works with the National Forage Council. Mostly cattle oriented, but the seed folks are very visible in connection with them. You have to keep saying " this is for horses, no clover or fescues." They were really pushing the endophyte-free fescue seed at our Forage Council conference! But none could tell me seed was 100% endophyte free! Or would stay endophyte-free over time. There are protocols for dealing with bred mares on fescue pasture that include dry-lots and feeding hay to prevent red-bag deliveries. Some locations would have no pasture if not for fescues, so people deal with it.
Tell me if I did not answer the questions you had so I can try again! Ha had
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