Puppy Application Rejected by Two Kennels

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IMO, a daily exercise regiment of 60 minutes of brisk walking or jogging (especially if it’s off leash), 30 minutes of playing, AND 60 minutes of agility training should be sufficient to settle most any dog.

Well, not really. A daily regimen of an hour of brisk walking plus a half hour of playing plus some training is perfectly fine for a moderate-energy breed like a lab. Not for any of the breeds described as high-energy.

One thing is, no one does 60 minutes of agility training per day. The dog would break down. Even if you did competitive agility training it’s hard to imagine you’d manage to occupy the dog for more than a few minutes per day plus one hour-long class a week (during which the dog would probably be moving for less than ten minutes total, probably less). Which is why when people happily post they are going to get a very high drive breed and “occupy it” by doing agility you get eye-rolling disbelieving comments.
I don’t know who these “average” Belgian owners you know are, but practically all of the Belgian owners I know either do actual work with their dog (SAR for the most part), or do heavy daily exercise and compete in multiple sports with their dog (usually including a protection sport), or have a “wash out” dog that isn’t typical for the breed, or have one of the “show line” turvs that are sometimes described as “golden retrievers in a Belgian suit”. Note the original OP was told by the turv breeders to look for one of these dogs- the show-line turvs might suit her admirably.

If I were looking for a dog to hit the top in both obedience/agility, I wouldn’t look at the Belgians for a number of reasons. I’d look at shelties, corgis, poodles, golden retrievers instead.

Being a BC fan, I would say a Border (and they do come with an off-switch :smiley: - ask my two after their morning walk/play session)- but a Greyhound might very well suit you. I have had several retired greyhounds in my CGC classes and they are quick learners once you know their primary and secondary drives. I would go for one

Athletic - but you will need to train them to do agility, they are not the easiest.
Walking - doesnt need to be every day but as you need to they are good for that. Will need to work on the off-leash as they may think that is time to PLAY!! But doable.
Service Dogs - relatively easy to train to pick up things for you. Most I know have gone on to become service dogs of one sort or another. ONe of my colleagues has trained his 2 retired Greyhounds to get him a beer from the fridge - and to bring him the treat bag for their treat :slight_smile: - apparently didnt take them long either.
Need to train them to sit - can be fun in obedience as they do have slightly different structure in their back legs and some dont like sitting.
Love coursing - and they dont need much play.
Dont bark much - and love to couch surf while you are out at work … you may actually have too much going on for one :slight_smile:
Do need coats etc for winter - but think of the fun dressing a large dog :slight_smile: (says the owner of 2 BCs with 4 different coats each)
Do need a special collar as they do have a very flexible neck - but they are easily obtainable.
Would go for one of the larger breeds to assist - they have more strength and robustness

To clarify, don’t seek a puppy or high drive or high energy

LazyPalominoHunter- thank you for your kind words and positive spin! On your ETA, I ponder the same thing! Are they launching a chuck it into a 4acre backyard:confused: Or crating 23hrs a day “so the dog is in drive” <eye roll>.

I contacted the high energy kennel not to buy her high drive, high energy, hot stuff puppy. I would want her adult washout. She intentionally breeds smaller Tervs and the ability to carry my dog in an emergency gives me peace of mind, as others have mentioned.

I know I cannot live with a high energy dog. I do not want a high drive dog. I suspect drive & energy are being used interchangeably and I believe they are different.

I follow Fenzi and have learned how to tug without stressing the back. I just need a dog tall enough to touch!

I am vaguely familiar with Mike Suttle and assumed his dogs and nearly all Mals and DSs would be too high energy, temperamentally hard, and physical for me.

Shelties might be too short and the yapping worries me. The right one could be a great fit.

I’ve heard field-bred Goldens to be “high as a kite” and I’ve recently seen a few examples! :eek:

Viszlas seem to be kinda popular pets in my area. 99% of them have been very high energy and physically reckless.

I’ve never met a sighthound with a temperament that found training fun (and I use positive-only methods). If so, they could be a wonderful match.

Shelties, BCs, and Goldens are very popular in OB and Ag. That also means you have to trial & Q more to make it to Nat’ls and Invit’ls.

I am open to all ideas and a reality check. I want a purebred. I’m dreaming of Invitationals once in my life and with my degenerative disc disease, the clock is ticking.:frowning:

Basenji ?
http://www.basenjirescue.org/DOGS/default.htm

Do not discount rescue sources.

First of all I am no expert. I dabble in obedience and rally type stuff, but I am one of those that wants to do it with a certain breed up to whatever level is still fun. I don’t have the aspirations you do.
Here is what I see. A lot of shelties seem to do really well at that stuff, but they are also really vocal. It might not be the best in an apartment. Standard poodles seem to do really well at that stuff. I’ve actually seen some border collies in dog stuff that weren’t really hyper dogs. They also seem to pick it up naturally. A good collie can be a really nice dog for that type of thing. A smooth collie breeder might be more of what you want.
Honestly you have a pretty dog centered life, and I don’t think you can really throw a Terv out in the yard anyway. You might be able to find one that is suitable. I don’t take my own advice but if competing is really important to you, be a little cautious with protection types. Someone really established told me once that their dog aggression is just a little too high for a lot of the obedience/agility stuff because there are so many dogs crammed in such a small kenneling area and you have so little room for error in that environment. Even with a lot of socialization, the breeding will influence what they will eventually turn out to be.

Shelties come in a wide variety of sizes, and ability. But by far they are the BEST agility dogs without having a super high energy level all.the.time

They are my favorite breed (I’m a sucker for a gorgeous blue merle), and my family has had them for years for both obedience and agility. They just can’t be beat for fun and smarts. And there is nothing better than standing in First Place with a trophy for Highest Score in Herding Breeds (obedience) more often then not. :slight_smile:

My sister now has Tervs. Sharp and bright, but BOY do they need direction, and can be stubborn. So can Rough Collies (I have two now) - what a culture shock after having super biddable Shelties for so many years that could read my mind and do what I wanted before I even formulated the thought.

[QUOTE=wendy;7449602]

One thing is, no one does 60 minutes of agility training per day. The dog would break down. Even if you did competitive agility training it’s hard to imagine you’d manage to occupy the dog for more than a few minutes per day plus one hour-long class a week (during which the dog would probably be moving for less than ten minutes total, probably less). Which is why when people happily post they are going to get a very high drive breed and “occupy it” by doing agility you get eye-rolling disbelieving comments. [/QUOTE]

Ummmm… so while I can’t speak for the OP or anyone else, I can tell you that I practice agility 5-6 times a week. Saying you can’t practice every day without breaking your dog down is like saying you can’t ride your hunter 5 or 6 days a week without him breaking down. Sure, if you’re doing 3’6" courses daily he won’t last long, but limited jumping 1-2 days per week and doing flatwork the remaining days of the week is a fine recipe for the typical horse to have a long career. I have absolutely zero reason to believe dogs are different. In fact, I’d argue a dog that is carefully conditioned on a near-daily basis is far less likely to sustain an injury than a weekend warrior dog is. My trainer is literally a veterinarian who treats sports injuries, and she has never once suggested I am overtraining my dogs.

What does my practice look like? I have back-to-back semi private lessons with the two dogs on Mondays, and the remaining days I do my own independent practice sessions (60 minutes total per session for the two dogs together, alternating who I work with so that the puppy is out for 5-7 minutes at a time and the older dog is out closer to 10 minutes). During these sessions we aren’t doing a ton of high impact stuff, but they are definitely working either physically or mentally. To an extent, even sitting in the crate watching the other dog train seems to wear their little brains out.

We do lots of fetch and tug, and depending on the day we do some combination of hind end awareness exercises, crate games, target work, core building exercises on a bosu or exercise ball, heel work, stay proofing, recall-to-heel exercises in motion and standing, low height table proofing, playing with tunnel sends, a few turns on the flat, etc. Maybe twice a week I do a few low height jump drills or contact proofing with my adult dog. Full courses and weaves are in class or trials only. The puppy isn’t jumping, weaving, doing tight turns or any raised contacts, or even sequencing yet… but we still have more than enough to fill the time even without those things. To say that you don’t see how anyone could possibly practice for more than a few minutes a day suggests you may not understand the tremendous intricacies of training a dog that is competing at a national level.

At any rate, I can say that I absolutely practice for more than a few minutes per dog, per day, and our practices definitely wipe my dogs out for at least half the day.

At least for the folks I train with, this sort of schedule is very typical (and I have three friends who have finished MACHs the past two weekends alone, including one MACH2 on a Groenendael). Of course not all agility enthusiasts practice this much, but many serious competitors do.

I may even be wrong in my assumption that this is the sort of work Bicoastal is planning on doing, but since she’s tossing around terms like Invitationals, Nationals, MACH, etc., I suspect she’s thinking the same sort of training program I use. But either way, please know that people who do actual daily agility training that is actual exercise, do exist. Further, I firmly believe near-daily agility training can be done in a sensible fashion that doesn’t break the dog down.

I don’t know who these “average” Belgian owners you know are, but practically all of the Belgian owners I know either do actual work with their dog (SAR for the most part), or do heavy daily exercise and compete in multiple sports with their dog (usually including a protection sport), or have a “wash out” dog that isn’t typical for the breed, or have one of the “show line” turvs that are sometimes described as “golden retrievers in a Belgian suit”. Note the original OP was told by the turv breeders to look for one of these dogs- the show-line turvs might suit her admirably.

The Belgian folks I know are split about equally between doing just agility, and doing multiple dog sports (herding and agility being the most common combination). As far as I know none of them do any protection or SAR work. Several do compete in the breed ring. I could not speak to whether all of these dogs are bench dogs by breeding that happen to moonlight as performance dogs. Perhaps this group of 10 or 12 people would have all failed miserably and been overwhelmed with “real” Belgian dogs. I cannot eliminate this as a possibility.

If I were looking for a dog to hit the top in both obedience/agility, I wouldn’t look at the Belgians for a number of reasons. I’d look at shelties, corgis, poodles, golden retrievers instead.

I personally don’t care much for Belgians either, and I think they’re far from a good pet for the vast majority of people. However, I know enough people (even some who are 60+ years old or very overweight) with well-balanced and successful Belgian performance dogs to make me believe that with a dedicated owner that many can be great sport dogs.

At least to me, Bicoastal sounds like she knows what she’d be getting into, and from what I can tell she would be smart and capable enough to successfully own one (especially since she’s seeking out one from the lower-drive end of the spectrum for the breed). Even if it meant adjusting her training or exercise schedule to accommodate its specific needs.

Is a Weimaraner too big?

[QUOTE=Bicoastal;7449840]

I know I cannot live with a high energy dog. I do not want a high drive dog. I suspect drive & energy are being used interchangeably and I believe they are different.

I am open to all ideas and a reality check. I want a purebred. I’m dreaming of Invitationals once in my life and with my degenerative disc disease, the clock is ticking.:([/QUOTE]

The type of dog who is likely to be able to be a MACH dog is going to be a high drive kind of dog. It doesn’t mean they won’t have an off switch, but drive is going to be needed to train at that level. We’re not quite there yet, by my understanding is that you need X number of “Q’s” and Mach points to qualify for the nationals (one of my first litter qualified for nationals) and that Invitationals are where rankings within an individual breed come in to play.

A corgi isn’t going to meet your height requirement. I’ve seen some great Goldens in Agility lately, but I have no idea how they are to live with. I know a couple of Beaucerons and a couple of Finnish Lapphund’s that are great agility dogs and might be a good match for you size wise, but I think both breeds are pretty few and far between. Whichever breed you settle upon, look for one from a breeder proven to produce agility/obedience dogs. For some of the breeds, this is going to narrow your pool of breeders a fair bit. My breeding dogs are my competition partners and like others I know, desire to keep trialing often leads to breeding fairly infrequently.

Weirmeraners and especially basenjis are not known for being easy to train for obedience or agility or be especially talented at each in competition.

Some friends did get their rhodesian ridgebacks trained and titled and were for a few years number one in the breed in agility, but it took a tremendous amount of work, training and time.
They have goldens now.:wink:

I think it is best not to try to cram a square peg into a round hole.
Get a dog that is bred to do things with people in the way those require, if you want to be successful at the top.

When I did a broad search the Weimaramers kept coming up as an option. OP said she wanted something off the beaten path. Shrug.

Several people mentioned smooth collies. Being involved with performance smooth collies myself I am partial and I understand they are not the “cool” dogs to have but it’s at least worth taking a look- they do meet all your criteria- decent size, temperament to help with picking up things (off the floor and learning things), performance-minded, versatile dogs, smart but not cuckoo.

pictures: http://www.awca.net/sports.htm

You might also check out Flat-Coated Retrievers and Curly-Coated Retrievers. :yes:

(Typing from tablet forgive errors)
LPH outlined a great program! I use NADAC hoops in place of jumps in home training.

I’m totally open to other breeds.

re: nationals, with my pap I’m a small fish in big pond so maybe it isn’t that big a deal. it is something I’m aware of, especially with invitational in a month!:slight_smile: sigh it’d be great if I could stick with paps.

I think of MACH dogs as enjoying the game, consistent, & somewhat careful. I thought the blazing fast drivey dogs lean to USDAA which is more of a Worlds platform. Did I get that wrong?

Get a dog that is bred to do things with people in the way those require, if you want to be successful at the top.[/QUOTE]

Can you elaborate? Brain fart! I don’t understand.

Australian Shepherd !

[QUOTE=Bicoastal;7450189]
(Typing from tablet forgive errors)
LPH outlined a great program! I use NADAC hoops in place of jumps in home training.

I’m totally open to other breeds.

re: nationals, with my pap I’m a small fish in big pond so maybe it isn’t that big a deal. it is something I’m aware of, especially with invitational in a month!:slight_smile: sigh it’d be great if I could stick with paps.

I think of MACH dogs as enjoying the game, consistent, & somewhat careful. I thought the blazing fast drivey dogs lean to USDAA which is more of a Worlds platform. Did I get that wrong?

Get a dog that is bred to do things with people in the way those require, if you want to be successful at the top.[/QUOTE]

Can you elaborate? Brain fart! I don’t understand.[/QUOTE]

Ws that quote a question to me?
I was talking about breeds that don’t really enjoy doing things with you like obedience and agility competition.
They do it, but not with the zest and intense passion those breeds that do good at it show.

A basenji or greyhound or such are fine to enjoy training, but if you add the pressure of trying to win, many of the individuals in those breeds just are not so much into it.

Since you are already training and don’t care for any specific breed, I think I would try to find any one individual dog that you like and you think would love to work with you, not be set on a breed, as you say.

You want a Mach dog that is intelligent and trainable? Look for a long legged Jack Russell Terrier, just find one with an excellent temperament (not the manic barking/jumping ones). They will also be tall enough that you do not have to bend over if you train them to stand up on their hind legs resting their fronts on your leg.

Instead of a Standard Poodle, maybe a more medium sized poodle would work for you. It’s not too small, not too big, really smart, and should do well in agility.

[QUOTE=Bicoastal;7450189]

I think of MACH dogs as enjoying the game, consistent, & somewhat careful. I thought the blazing fast drivey dogs lean to USDAA which is more of a Worlds platform. Did I get that wrong?
.[/QUOTE]

The MACH dogs I know are fast for their height. The speed is needed to rack up the MACH points. Accuracy and consistency got me to the Excellent level with my first dog. Her lack of speed (and a little light on drive in agility–good in tracking) are what keep her from being a true contender for trying for a MACH. Her daughter and granddaughter possess the needed drive and speed for me to aim for MACH level with them. No experience in USDAA

[QUOTE=Bicoastal;7450189]
(Typing from tablet forgive errors)
I think of MACH dogs as enjoying the game, consistent, & somewhat careful. I thought the blazing fast drivey dogs lean to USDAA which is more of a Worlds platform. Did I get that wrong?[/QUOTE]

Yes, a MACH requires consistent performance. For any non-agility folks in thread, the MACH (Master Agility Champion) title has two components:

[LIST=1]

  • Having qualifying (clean) runs in Excellent Standard and Excellent Jumpers [B]on the same day,[/B] 20 times (in agility lingo, you'd say the dog needs to "earn 20 double Qs").
  • Dogs earn 1 "Championship Point" for each second under the allowed time in all qualifying runs (regardless of whether those runs are part of a QQ day or not). To earn a MACH a dog needs to accumulate a total of 750 points [/LIST] At a minimum a MACH dog will enjoy the game, be consistent and careful, and be reasonably fast. If you have a slow-ish but consistent dog, you could conceivably earn a MACH without ever getting a ribbon in an Excellent level class. This is because ribbons within the classes themselves are earned by getting a Q [I]and[/I] being the fastest dog.

    Even in AKC, the blazing fast dogs are going to be the ones winning the classes. The slower consistent dogs still get their accolades, just in the form of MACH titles rather than ribbons or national titles. Really slow dogs won’t be MACH candidates because they won’t be able to accrue the points they need.

    To qualify for AKC Nationals, you need to earn 400 points and have at least 6 Excellent QQs in the past year.

    To qualify for the AKC Invitational, your dog must be ranked in the top 5 of his breed, in Excellent level classes, over the previous 12 months. This means it is much easier to qualify for the Invitational with an unusual breed than with a common one. The Groenendael I know that went this year is very good, but nowhere near as good as the top border collies.

    USDAA agility is modeled after international competition (and the dogs in Europe are GOOD). The dogs jump higher, and typically are faster/turn tighter/etc than the average AKC dog. USDAA is very much dominated by border collies.

    Get a dog that is bred to do things with people in the way those require, if you want to be successful at the top.

    Can you elaborate? Brain fart! I don’t understand.

    I just took it to mean Bluey was backing up your decision to not try and get a greyhound or ridgeback or whatever and jam his square-peg self into the round hole that is agility. :slight_smile: There’s always a chance that there’s a greyhound out there somewhere waiting to MACH, but the odds of getting a good dog that loves the game are much higher if you were to get something like an agility-bred BC or mal or sheltie, or an individual dog proven to have an interest in the sport.